Knuckle Rebuild After Ball Joint Pinch Bolt Snapped

[msmithmmx]

98 OBW 200K.  So a simple ball joint replacement turned into a 3 week ordeal. Started as a loose front passenger side wheel bearing. I fixed that by tightening up a very loose axle nut.  While in there I noticed that most of the suspension boots were rotted and leaking.  Off with the knuckle. With the knuckle out the hub was loose. That's not good so maybe I did have failing wheel bearing.  While taking out the ball joint I cracked the iron casing with too much pressure in the slit with a chisel to remove the ball joint.  Here is why this took weeks.  I ordered a used knuckle off eBay from a 2000 Forester.  I did have to ream the camber hole out very very slightly.  It was a rusted mess in that hole due to an aftermarket camber bolt that was used.  The Pinch bolt snapped along with a dust cover bolt. The bearing on the replacement knuckle was REALLY shot  At this point I figured that any 20 year old knuckle is going to be in this shape.  I went for the rebuild on the eBay knuckle that was on life support.  Drilled out the dust shield bolt with a DeWalt 1/4 titanium bit and tapped with 5/16 - 18 tap.  Chased the rest of the dust shield bolts and the ABS sensor bolt with the same tap.  Drilled out the ball joint pinch bolt with DeWalt 5/16 Cobalt bit. Wished I had a titanium bit. My opinion titanium is better. I used a Grade 8 bolt from Lowes with some adjustments.  I had the shop that pressed in the new wheel bearing cut the access off the new pinch bolt cleanly.  See pic for part numbers.  All the relevant parts I used for this job are below.   I took the Duralast challenge and purchased the premium pads lifetime warranty  and rust free rotors with three year warranty.  I probably paid 3X the amount for the typical pads and rotars

 

Knuckle from 2000 Forester $50  Ebay
Ball Joint  - AC Delco 46D2183A $16.81  Amazon
Brake Pads - Duralast DGC721  $41.99 Autozone
Rotars - Duralast 31247DG  $36 X 2  = $72  Autozone
Camber Bolt - Subaru 20540AA090   $10.34  Ebay
Wheel Hub - Dorman 930-500  $21.99  Amazon
Wheel Bearing -  GMB 758-0003 $18   Amazon
Inner Tie Rod Set with Boots - 1ASTE00114   $33.39 (only needed one boot) Ebay
Ball Joint Bolt - Hilman 008236705829  3/8-18 X 2-1/2    (This will need to be trimmed)  $1.21
                            Lock washer 008236706314    3/8  Alloy Steel     $1.09
                            Hex Nut 08236706611  3/8-16    $1.09
Shop work $50
 

 

[GeneralDisorder]

Next time instead of a chisel in the pinch slot just grind the ball joint out of the knuckle with a large carbide burr. We had this happen to both ball joints on an 06 Impreza not long ago. Took about 15 minutes per side to just chew them out.

 

Titanium is not good for drill bits. Would be crazy expensive too. You mean titanium nitride? That's mostly a gimmick. You want a tough drill bit get a high quality one from Walter or a similar reputable brand. Cobalt is a meaningless marketing term. All high speed steels have cobalt in them. You could get a stub length carbide bit if you like spending lots of money but without putting the knuckle in a mill you would likely break it. Honestly the best way to go is a carbide burr. They make some neat 1/8", extended length burrs that have a drill point on the end. Called a "rescue bit", etc. These will drill and grind and can be used to extract small fasteners. I've personally saved the threads in 6mm holes.

 

GD

[1 Lucky Texan]

I'm no professional mechanic or machinist - but one mistake I see a lot is, folks not using a lubricant/coolant when they drill.

 

GD, got a link to type burr you use?

[GeneralDisorder]

If you drill through it first, you can use something like this:

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Carbide-Burr-SB-43L3D-Cylindrical-End-Cut-Double-Cut-1-8-x-1-8-x-9-16-x-3/162106691582?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D41375%26meid%3Df0cc38262bf94a7a8896acdde9d5c591%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D381672610573

 

The genuine rescue bits aren't cheap but they can be nice to have around.

 

https://www.amazon.com/Rescue-Bit-Broken-Extractor-Removal/dp/B00B1E5APO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486960457&sr=8-1&keywords=Rescue+bit.

 

Broken fastener removal is an art form. Getting the job done in a timely manner and not creating a whole lot more work for yourself is a skill that can only be obtained by doing it wrong many, many times.

 

If you work in a shop and don't have one of these order one immediately:

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008XN9HO6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486961015&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=miniductor&dpPl=1&dpID=41ZfT6zk5oL&ref=plSrch

 

The home-gamer probably can't justify one but mine has payed for itself many times over. Got mine from Snap On.

 

GD

[lostinthe202]

Next time instead of a chisel in the pinch slot just grind the ball joint out of the knuckle with a large carbide burr. We had this happen to both ball joints on an 06 Impreza not long ago. Took about 15 minutes per side to just chew them out.

 

Titanium is not good for drill bits. Would be crazy expensive too. You mean titanium nitride? That's mostly a gimmick. You want a tough drill bit get a high quality one from Walter or a similar reputable brand. Cobalt is a meaningless marketing term. All high speed steels have cobalt in them. You could get a stub length carbide bit if you like spending lots of money but without putting the knuckle in a mill you would likely break it. Honestly the best way to go is a carbide burr. They make some neat 1/8", extended length burrs that have a drill point on the end. Called a "rescue bit", etc. These will drill and grind and can be used to extract small fasteners. I've personally saved the threads in 6mm holes.

 

GD

 

As a machinist, I've never heard of solid titanium drill bits, Titanium is not suited to that kind of work, and, yeah, the price, yikes.  That said, Ti-Ni coating is definitely a thing.  But like the old saying, "you get what you pay for."  Buy cheap, get cheap.

 

Also, cobalt drills are legit, again if you pay for quality.  You're right that all HSS tools have a cobalt percentage, but what a "cobalt" drill refers to is that they have a higher percentage.  They do better than your typical HSS in hard stuff, chromoly, tool steels, etc.  I could see not noticing a difference in aluminum, wood, other softer stuff.  Here's some good info on it,

 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/High-speed_steel#Cobalt_High_Speed_Steels_.28HSS.29

 

That handheld induction heater you linked to is amazing!  I've seen induction heaters, but never in a handheld form, just bench top coils that heat an envelope of a given size

 

I'm no professional mechanic or machinist - but one mistake I see a lot is, folks not using a lubricant/coolant when they drill.

 

GD, got a link to type burr you use?

 

 

Bingo, gotta have the motion lotion.  WD-40 is an OK solution for aluminum, but apply frequently. 

 

McMaster-Carr.com

MSCdirect.com

 

Both good sources for all things nuts and bolts and fluids

Edited February 13, 2017 by lostinthe202

[GeneralDisorder]

I just don't trust the Chinese or the big marketing machines to make a drill bit out of what they claim on the packaging. Things like Ti-Ni coating, and Cobalt.... Yeah that's great if it's actually implemented correctly (or at all) but since all HSS has some Cobalt unless they list the exact alloy or percentage....

 

Yeah I just stick with name brand quality drill bits... and taps for that matter. There is NOTHING in this world more frustrating than a broken drill bit or tap. Life is way two short for that foolishness.

 

You most assuredly get what you pay for. I've seen Chinese drill bends BEND like a coat hanger. If they can't even harden them then nothing can be trusted.

 

And who is gonna take the Chinese to task on false advertising of drill bit alloys? Yeah no one.

 

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=0ahUKEwi12q_KtIzSAhVQ1WMKHV0BDMQQFggpMAA&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2FNorseman-44170-240-UB-Degree-Premium%2Fdp%2FB00627C8ZU&usg=AFQjCNHPPET9jPMjRBRgaivPP7FNYH3Bcw&sig2=YeOzh8JJzqDjo2blOfa7ew

 

GD

[dfoyl]

Good to see you posting GD. Agree on the cheap drill bits. I bought a set of Kawasaki bits from Costco several years ago, I thought decent Japanese brand. Titanium coated etc etc. They would bend like a banana. Ended up throwing them all out. Only use Suttons now (local company in AUS and NZ). It helps that the company I work for makes the machines for them (2nd biggest after Walter).

[msmithmmx]

The induction heater is in it's own league. My local shop used that to remove rusted driveshaft bolts on an old truck I was working on.  $500 is just too much for one use a year.  I am a home mechanic I do not need long lasting bits.  The bits I was using were $5 Dewalts.  Use a few times and move them over to the  bit box for wood use.  Just saying the titanium bit cut like butter for one use.

[1 Lucky Texan]

as just a DIY hack, I also kinda 'pick my battles' and have no qualms using cheap stuff if it will get the job done. But, if I decide I need a quality tool, I buy it with no hesitation - never regretted that decision yet. Even if I misjudge how often I use it, I figure a son-in-law will inherit it - or my kids will get a coupla bucks more at the estate sale lol!

[DaveT]

I buy titanium coated and or coball drill bits from USA brands from industrial supply places, they seem to be a lot better than typical home owner bits.

MSC and McMastercarr are the 2 I buy from.

[CNY_Dave]

Tackling pinch bolts without a blue-wrench... brave souls!

[1 Lucky Texan]

someone used to advocate drilling them from the backside in increasing large diameter until the bolt came loose. Seems tricky to get a pilot drill centered but....? I haven't tried it.

 

but yeah, you guys that deal with rust and road salts, ugh, I try to be sympathetic.

[GreaseMonkey03]

Heat is your friend on almost anything Subaru. That and a big hammer. Never underestimate the power of a few firm hits to loosen things up. On smaller bolts like the pinch bolt, even a cheap torch will help. And patience. Lots of patience.

[CNY_Dave]

My hub-pulling slide hammer is a big fat bolt 3 feet long that goes to the thing that attaches to the lugs, and has a few nuts on the end, and the slider was a 25lbs thick steel plate, but now is 2 or 3 5lb barbell weights.

I stand over it and slide the weight with both hands.

 

On my outback (using the big weight) the hub was so stuck I think it almost yanked the car off the jackstands. Shook a lot of rust off too!

[GreaseMonkey03]

Dave I can't even picture that but the description has me cracking up. I remove a lot of hubs from the back with a matching size impact socket and a mini sledge.

[lmdew]

Should have just emailed me for a nice rust free knuckle.