xdeadeye1 Posted February 14, 2017 Share Posted February 14, 2017 Hi guys, 1996 legacy wagon 2.2 EAT I have a parts car and I want to swap the lift gates. The hinges etc seem self explanatory. My question is on the electrical system. I need to disconnect the wiring from the body to the lift gate. Is there a plug somewhere that I can get to and just disconnect the plug and remove it and then plug it into my regular ride? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GreaseMonkey03 Posted February 14, 2017 Share Posted February 14, 2017 I haven't taken one of these apart, but on most cars the harness runs along the outer edge and branches out to the individual plugs for the lights. Take the inside cover off and unplug and un clip all the wires and run it out of the old one. Then run it back through the replacement. Now would be a good time to reinforce the harness between the hatch and the body. They tend to break at the bend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wagon Wagon Posted February 14, 2017 Share Posted February 14, 2017 If it's anything like my 1994 there will be a ribbed rubber hose looking thing about as thick as your finger going from the roof to the top of the hatch. Pop that off of the metal (you can probably do it with your bare hands) to expose the wiring, and if you tug it out a little bit you should see the plug. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xdeadeye1 Posted February 14, 2017 Author Share Posted February 14, 2017 I saw the ribbed rubber shroud, I pulled each end of the rubber thing off,, but didn't see a plug. I didn't PULL on the wires. I just wasn't sure if it was up in there,, at the top..,, or if there was a plug somewhere else like down at the tail lights that I would then have to pull up through the rear posts. It would make sense to put a plug at the top at the rubber shroud,, I just didn't see any. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wagon Wagon Posted February 14, 2017 Share Posted February 14, 2017 I recall it being a couple inches inside the roof. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtdash Posted February 15, 2017 Share Posted February 15, 2017 I did this on a '96 Brighton wagon (rear window got busted)....I did NOT see any plug/connector. We had to disconnect everything from the rear hatch and then pull it out thru that access hole.where it goes through that ribbed section back to the main part of the car and vice versa to install. :-( If you DO find one - Kudos. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wagon Wagon Posted February 15, 2017 Share Posted February 15, 2017 Damn, that's a bummer. Guess either mine was different or I'm remembering wrong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xdeadeye1 Posted February 15, 2017 Author Share Posted February 15, 2017 infinite sadness Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted February 15, 2017 Share Posted February 15, 2017 The FSM may tell where the connector is. Just try and pull it out and find a connector. If it doesn't work just have a bunch of splicing supplies ready and cut and splice. The wires fail sometimes at the hinges and require that process as a repair anyway, I wouldnt bother trying to salvage the original wire if it requires pulling it all out the hatch. I did it once and it was a waste of time. I'll splice if I ever have to do it again. If you've got everything on hand it doesn't take long to splice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xdeadeye1 Posted February 15, 2017 Author Share Posted February 15, 2017 I have a hanes manual,, but I found nothing in there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GreaseMonkey03 Posted February 15, 2017 Share Posted February 15, 2017 I would advise against a splice. I have to repair these all the time. It usually involves removing the boot to expose the wires that have been cut over time from opening and closing the hatch. The room allowed is so minimal that each splice has to be offset to allow for free movement at the joint. And that's with just two or three wires having to be repaired. You also don't really want a weak chain in the link at the point where the wires get the most stress. Be methodical. Take your time. Do it right. You'll thank yourself for it later. if you attach a wire to the harness of the donor car before pulling it out, you can use that to pull the harness of your car back through. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted February 15, 2017 Share Posted February 15, 2017 (edited) I have a hanes manual,, but I found nothing in there. Those suck, 10x better Subaru original FSM's are all over the internet for free. I've literally never used a Haynes manual in 20 years of owning Subaru's. internet, free FSM's, there's no need. The FSM may tell where the connector is. I would advise against a splice. I have to repair these all the time. It usually involves removing the boot to expose the wires that have been cut over time from opening and closing the hatch. The room allowed is so minimal that each splice has to be offset to allow for free movement at the joint. Good point, but if done right it will hold and you'll only have the exact same OEM wire running through the movable section when you're done...so it'll be identical to every other Subaru on the road. Never had the ones I've done have repeat failures, I wouldn't worry about it. Keep the (quality) splices away from the non moving/hinged area - stuff them back into their respective bodies (roof/hatch). Use high quality new automotive grade wire. wire from newer Subaru parts would suffice - trunks, doors, etc. Edited February 15, 2017 by grossgary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xdeadeye1 Posted February 15, 2017 Author Share Posted February 15, 2017 I should have taken the blue pill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GreaseMonkey03 Posted February 15, 2017 Share Posted February 15, 2017 Don't worry too much about it. Easier done than said. Pull the panels and have a look. Then you can decide which route you want to take. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted February 15, 2017 Share Posted February 15, 2017 (edited) Don't worry too much about it. Easier done than said. Pull the panels and have a look. Then you can decide which route you want to take. Well said - different ones could vary well be easier than others. To find a plug, or to swap harnesses. A sedan trunk I swapped harnesses I'd never waste my time on again. But surely some are easier than others. It's been 10 years ago but a 97 impreza wagon (OBS) hatch I swapped I'm nearly positive I found the connector and just plug and played the hatch. The rubber boot pulls back really easily insitu, would take almost no time to at least do a cursory check and see if you can easily find a connector first. I should have taken the blue pill. HAHHAHAHA !!!!! it's rare I laugh at online comments but that did it... I should have taken the blue pill. HAHHAHAHA Edited February 15, 2017 by grossgary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocketman Posted February 15, 2017 Share Posted February 15, 2017 I had to laugh too,may put some dielectric grease on plug. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xdeadeye1 Posted February 15, 2017 Author Share Posted February 15, 2017 i found this diagram online, if im reading it right there is no plug near the hinges.. i would have to unplug all connectors and then fish it up through the hole in the top,, then fish them back down inside the new lift gate. if im reading this correctly http://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_1996_Legacy22L-AT-4WDBase-Wagon/_52016_6023053/CORD-REAR/B11-815-02.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocketman Posted February 15, 2017 Share Posted February 15, 2017 Also you could open up the doner car to see where the plug is,then take another blew pill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted February 15, 2017 Share Posted February 15, 2017 (edited) i found this diagram online, if im reading it right there is no plug near the hinges.. i would have to unplug all connectors and then fish it up through the hole in the top,, then fish them back down inside the new lift gate. if im reading this correctly http://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_1996_Legacy22L-AT-4WDBase-Wagon/_52016_6023053/CORD-REAR/B11-815-02.html good find. looks like two huge harnesses in the pic and via part number, looks pretty clear. Also you could open up the doner car to see where the plug is,then take another blew pill. GGGAAAHHHH HAAAA!!! Edited February 15, 2017 by grossgary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xdeadeye1 Posted February 16, 2017 Author Share Posted February 16, 2017 I know you know better than me gary... but I only see one harness that plugs into the main down by the passenger rear tail light.. so I could fish those plugs up through the rear pillar and disconnect the thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GreaseMonkey03 Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 If you're planning on pulling the body harness out with the door I'll say a prayer for you. If you, for whatever reason, can't get it back down in there or across the back to the left pillar as the diagram shows, you're in for a world of hurt. I've gone digging through a lot of harnesses on a lot of different cars of all different years. It is the biggest bane to my existence as a mechanic. The most headache free route is to pull the harness out of the door and keep it attached to the car. It will take you all of about 5 minutes to pull the panels off the inside of the hatch and take a look at what I'm saying. Worst case scenario is that one section in particular is boxed in and you have to cut an access hole. But I doubt it. The last thing you want to be stuck with is a fully harnessed door and not be able to get the harness back in to the car. A lot of blood and cursing has resulted from things like this in the past. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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