Dave643 Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 I have a curious starting issue with my 2002 Outback with 230,000 on the clock and new to me,. Did not start one day after work - turned the key, only got a click Got a push and bump started it and drove on home the next morning same thing - just a click - hooked up the battery charger for a boost and it started just fine Battery new, tested good - alternator tested good - all cables good, no loose connections Any ideas before I pull the starter to have it tested??? Thanks, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olnick Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 It's most likely the copper contacts in the starter's solenoid--a very common problem and not too expensive or difficult a fix. Try a search here on USMB or just Google it. Plenty of info available on how to do it. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CNY_Dave Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 If it's an H6 and you ever need an alternator, watch out to get one actually made for the 6 cyl. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave643 Posted March 7, 2017 Author Share Posted March 7, 2017 Well, I thought I fixed the issue with a new starter - started great for three days then after work today, back to clicking - a quick push from some coworkers got me started and headed home - so, new starter, alternator, battery both tested good - Where to go now??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CNY_Dave Posted March 7, 2017 Share Posted March 7, 2017 If the manuals have a neutral switch and/or a clutch switch check those- they could 'work' but sometimes fail as soon as they start passing current, hence the 'click'. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GreaseMonkey03 Posted March 7, 2017 Share Posted March 7, 2017 I know you said they're good but it really sounds like the battery terminal connection. Often, a boost will get it started but then not enough of a contact to start it on its own. If the connections on the terminals are tight (wiggle them because sometimes the clamp stretches and it will tighten on itself but not on the post) inspect the main positive and negative cables to the battery. I've seen these basically rot away and cause starting issues. Can you tell if the starter is clicking or the relay? If the relay is not clicking, switch it with another relay from your fuse box and try again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave643 Posted March 7, 2017 Author Share Posted March 7, 2017 I just checked all the cables everything is nice and tight - after the drive home starts effortlessly - sure seems like a charging / drain issue but the battery is 6 months old and checked fine at auto zone - GreaseMonkey03 - can't tell because of course it starts now that I'm home - i'm leaning in the direction of throwing a new battery and cables in....Might pick up a multi meter to check for a drain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GreaseMonkey03 Posted March 7, 2017 Share Posted March 7, 2017 (edited) Check that relay first. Might save a few bucks. There should be identical ones there to swap out. If you have a test light, with the car and all lights off, unplug the negative terminal. Touch one end of the test light to the terminal and one to the cable. If the light comes on, there's drain. There might be some light due to ecu memory function but it should be relatively dim. Outside of that I got nothing. Lol Edited March 7, 2017 by GreaseMonkey03 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave643 Posted March 8, 2017 Author Share Posted March 8, 2017 I hate to ask but where would the relay be located? No time to research, have to take in a middle school play soon (grateful i have another vehicle) - and would a bad relay explain why it starts fine after it drove home? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GreaseMonkey03 Posted March 8, 2017 Share Posted March 8, 2017 Heck if I remember off the top of my head but I think on subarus it's under the dash. I've had issues with relays working intermittently but on at least one occasion I had to pull apart the relay box to fix the wiring underneath. As Dave said, the clutch safety switch could also be the culprit. If you look at your clutch pedal and follow it up towards the base, there should be a switch that it engages and disengages when you press the clutch pedal. Actually come to think of it, I think the wire for that switch will lead you to the starter relay as well. Sorry I work on a lot of different makes so I don't always know Subaru specifics off the top of my head. I just get in and look. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevo F Posted March 8, 2017 Share Posted March 8, 2017 I just had a similar issue on the '98 Legacy we just bought. Most likely the starter solenoid, but since the previous had put an Autozone starter on it a year to two ago, I decided to junk the whole starter and bought a remanufactured Denso starter from Rock Auto for $112 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted March 8, 2017 Share Posted March 8, 2017 next time if fails, try 2 things but not at the same time. whack the starter with piece of 2x4. jam it on or knock it - depending on the room you have. Try that several times and try starting. If it starts after whack - bad contacts in the solenoid. wiggle the battery cables. they sometimes can have corrosion wicked down under the insulation - compromising their conductivity. or the bad terminals or bad gnd connection. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted March 8, 2017 Share Posted March 8, 2017 If the manuals have a neutral switch and/or a clutch switch check those- they could 'work' but sometimes fail as soon as they start passing current, hence the 'click'. I think some folks have had to 'pop' their clutch or brake pedal a coupla times - or replace some kind of button? Except, I don't think you'd get even one click if it was a starter lock-out/security/safety condition. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave643 Posted March 10, 2017 Author Share Posted March 10, 2017 Hey Guys - back again - tested the battery with a multi meter - 12.6 volts - hit the key same click - hooked the battery charger - no go, same click - seems like the click is coming from the brand new starter - could the new starter be bad? maybe a relay issue? any advise would be appreciated, tired of the Subie sitting around... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted March 10, 2017 Share Posted March 10, 2017 12.6 v is normal fully charged battery at rest. When you get the click, if the rest of the electric stuff stays on, and doesn't dim out significantly, the connections are probably ok. Relay, or another connection in the crank circuit can be intermittent. FSM will have all the details of switches fuses, connectors. All need to be checked. Intermittents are a pain to find. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted March 10, 2017 Share Posted March 10, 2017 Clutch interlock relay, wiring, etc. Just install a relay in the circuit to give it full battery juice and be done with it. Trying to find the culprit will have you jumping trough hoops like a trained pony and like as not it will end up being the harness itself. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave643 Posted March 10, 2017 Author Share Posted March 10, 2017 GD - I've never tackled much when it comes to electrical - can you walk me through what you are thinking of?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted March 10, 2017 Share Posted March 10, 2017 I just posted this for another member in the old gen section: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/162575-1988-gl-10-turbo-wagon-ignition-removal/?p=1352402 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted March 12, 2017 Share Posted March 12, 2017 I just had a similar issue on the '98 Legacy we just bought. Most likely the starter solenoid, but since the previous had put an Autozone starter on it a year to two ago, I decided to junk the whole starter and bought a remanufactured Denso starter from Rock Auto for $112 This ^^^ That's the way to go. Don't waste time with Chinese aftermarket parts store starters. Denso or bust. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Theophilus Posted April 3, 2017 Share Posted April 3, 2017 Dave, did you ever get an answer to this one? I think I may be having the same problem. I've got a 2003 Legacy Outback with 110,000 miles. It generally runs great, but twice in the past month my wife has gone out to start the car and only heard a "click" when she turned the key. (I wasn't there, so I can't say where the sound was coming from.) Both times the problem eventually solved itself and the car started after about an hour of trying. The battery in the car is brand new and the connections to the battery cables are tight and clean. I've already had the battery and alternator tested at AutoZone and they say everything is fine. So I'm thinking it must be a switch somewhere. Is the switch on the clutch pedal the first place I should be looking? Anybody got a diagram of that? I've tried looking around under there, but it's an incredibly awkward place to reach and I'm not sure which part is the switch. I'm also not sure how to test it, even if I find it. But, if it's cheap enough, maybe I should just replace it and see if the problem goes away? Any advice is appreciated! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted April 3, 2017 Share Posted April 3, 2017 (edited) if you hear the click, then it isn't the neutral safety/clutch switch. most likely, the solenoid contacts and possibly plunger need replacing on the starter. kits can be had from ebay, amazon, elsewhere and there are likely youtube videos demonstrating the repair. best test for the solenoid - next time the car exhibits the symptom, whack the starter with a piece of wood. light-moderate tap, try to start, repeat a coupla times, maybe ad some 'oomph' and try a coupla more times. Don't use a hammer or herculean force. Edited April 3, 2017 by 1 Lucky Texan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave643 Posted April 14, 2017 Author Share Posted April 14, 2017 Overdue follow up - turns out the brand new Duralast starter from Autozone failed after a week - replaced with one from Advanced Auto Parts - so far so good! Thanks for all the tips Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike104 Posted May 5, 2017 Share Posted May 5, 2017 This sounds so familiar. My 99 OBW with 475k has a similar issue. Turn the key and get a click. Changed starter, ignition switch, did the start relay mod, changed the transmission switch. Sometimes I turn the key and it turns over right away. I find if I turn the key to on and put my seatbelt on and wait until the airbag light goes out it will crank and start right away. Otherwise if I turn the key to start multiple times usually cranks and starts by the fourth time. Never figured out what the issue is but now that I know it will start eventually not a big deal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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