loyale1993 Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 Can a cv axle go bad with out the boots being torn? I'm trying to diagnose a metal grinding noise on my front passenger side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee2 Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 yes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loyale1993 Posted February 28, 2017 Author Share Posted February 28, 2017 OK. Anyway to tell for sure before I go buying parts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naked Buell Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 Go somewhere where you can make the tightest turn you can either left or right. Then come to a complete stop and crank your steering wheel as far as it will go, left or right depending on the direction and then make a complete 360 circle. If the cv is bad, you will hear the famous "click, click, clicking" noise to let you know. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicksubaru Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 Normally they dont until the boot rips, but they can. I agree with Naked Buell. I believe that some auto parts store have lifetime warranty on cv axles and being that they are the same on both sides you can kinda get both for the price of one. If you are ok with lieing to the store. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gjewers Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 Forget about trying to rebuild them too. It's just about as cheap to replace the entire assembly and a lot less hassle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loyale1993 Posted February 28, 2017 Author Share Posted February 28, 2017 I just replaced the driver side a few days ago. Now I got something going on with the passenger side. It's not a clicking noise but a metal rubbing noise. Do I need to take it apart to check bearings? I don't have any play when I try to move the tire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 Usually, they click, and it gets worse in sharp turns, so try the suggestion above. Aftermarket axles are junk [with a few exceptions that can be found searching other similar threads] I have only rebuilt OEM Subaru axles, many times. [they key is to notice the torn boot before they start clicking] Far better than the typical aftermarket ones. It is harder to find OEM ones now, I'll admit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naked Buell Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 I have found that if you are replacing one side the other side isn't far behind. Plus, then you know both are good and document it and you can see how long you go before the next replacement. I always inspect every once in a while to look for cracks in the boot. Usually the one close to the exhaust pipe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naked Buell Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 I have found that if you are replacing one side the other side isn't far behind. Plus, then you know both are good and document it and you can see how long you go before the next replacement. I always inspect every once in a while to look for cracks in the boot. Usually the one close to the exhaust pipe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicksubaru Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 True, oem axles are better. My ea82 came with after markets so i just warranty them at my local auto parts store. With whatever ones they have. They normally last 1 to 2 years... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loyale1993 Posted February 28, 2017 Author Share Posted February 28, 2017 How about checking the bearings any tips? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 I'm not 100% sure, but I think I've had a lot less problems with the passenger side boots since I made this: http://www.dynahoedave.co.nf/exhaust.html The original exhaust puts the cat nearly under the inner boot, cooking it pretty well. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 I've been driving these GL / Loyales since 1988. A couple of them got past 200K miles. Never had a front wheel bearing go bad. [side note, I am almost done with the first rear wheel bearing repair I've ever had to do to one of these cars] If it's making some kind of constant noise, maybe it's a bearing - I'd think if a bearing was bad, it died due to contributing factors like the seal/s are shot or the axle nut got loose. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loyale1993 Posted February 28, 2017 Author Share Posted February 28, 2017 Wish I could weld. Someday I'll take a class and learn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 Start on steel over 1/4" thick. Or stainless. Stainless wants to weld. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee2 Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 How about checking the bearings any tips? Raise the wheel slightly off the ground. Grab the top of the tire and push /pull on it. If it moves in and out the bearings are gone. There should be no play in the movement of the wheel. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loyale1993 Posted February 28, 2017 Author Share Posted February 28, 2017 Raise the wheel slightly off the ground. Grab the top of the tire and push /pull on it. If it moves in and out the bearings are gone. There should be no play in the movement of the wheel. OK I did that and no play. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 That also usually means the axle nut is tight, so that stuff should be ok. Loose axle nuts can ruin spline in the hub and axle, in addition to the seals and bearings if it goes on long enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicksubaru Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 DaveT i like your exhaust. And it will pass "CA" emissions? Yes the pre cat puts alot of heat on the pass side inner boot. I actually had that boot rip on me today, on my loyale. It sounds like you have a bad cv axle. Sometimes you can grab the cv axle and try to move it and it will kinda crunch sound. If it does then you know, but if it doesn't that dont mean its good. It maybe a driveline but that's really rare Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 I have no way to know for CA. It did pass CT emissions. The cat I got from one of the online tuner stores, it's 2" in & out, 3 way cat, so only need one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naked Buell Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 Nice work on the exhaust DaveT. I have not tried to Tig yet and the more and more I see it I want to try it. I paid someone to do the last exhaust on my Rx and then when I got underneath my car I want to beat him with the exhaust. It is garbage. It looks like a child playing making metal stick together, and I paid $400 and got garbage. I guess I should look into a tig machine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 TIG welding stainless is a dream. As long as the 2 pieces touch, you barely need any filler. The exhaust pipe is about. 06 thick, so it's not too bad, but for your very first welding, thicker is easier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 TIG welding stainless is a dream. As long as the 2 pieces touch, you barely need any filler. The exhaust pipe is about. 06 thick, so it's not too bad, but for your very first welding, thicker is easier. yeah well done man. I think the mocking up and lining up part looks like the hard part. takes me forever. engine rebuilds are easy - *this bolt* goes in *that hole* wash, rinse, repeat. body work and custom exhaust welding i've done but it's just hard for me, partly because I'm not inclined towards it, partly because my equipment is low grade, and partly because I've never put much thought into set up that would help/make it easy. thanks for the pics, i'll spend more time on the set up/mock up next time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicksubaru Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 Loyale1993, did you figure out your noise? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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