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Transmission swap 92 FWD Legacy


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Long story short, I was told by my mechanic that swapped engines for me that swapping the transmission was yr specific due to the wiring. So I ordered one & explained the yr specific issue & was told it was a 92 with 103,000 miles. Well, it finally arrives & when I get to looking it over,it had 2 big black square electrical connections mine does not & the 2 metal lines coming out of the tranny are basically bent over in a full 180 crimping them. My electrical connections are 2 3 wire connectors & a 1 wire connector. I looked at the SN ta102aa2aa-m6. That's a 91 right? Is there any safe, cheap correct way to make this work in my 92?

Please advise,

Paul

Edited by yankneck
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I can't post my SN as I've had the differential/Bell housing swapped previously and don't know what it came out of as my mechanic just gave it to me. The vehicle production date is 11/91, if that makes any difference. I was asking him if he knew where to look & he said that transmission there is junk but the differential is good, just swap it. Hence how he became my Subaru mechanic. It helps he's a Subaru owner & drives daily.

Edited by yankneck
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Any help/advice/suggestions are greatly appreciated. I'm about to start (tomorrow) reassembling my current transmission while this gets resolved. Just need confirmation this SN ta102aa2aa-m6 will/won't be able to be used.

Thanks in advance

Paul

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Any help/advice/suggestions are greatly appreciated. I'm about to start (tomorrow) reassembling my current transmission while this gets resolved. Just need confirmation this SN ta102aa2aa-m6 will/won't be able to be used.

Thanks in advance

Paul

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Make sure you don't have the 90-92 model legacy clogging trans line issue. Subaru made a fix or repair for this. Even if you have catastrophic trans failure or it's too late, I'd address that now.

 

Wait - auto or manual?

GD

automatic.

I'm interpreting the two metal lines as supply and return lines.

 

I've seen a lot of engine and trans damage to anything that sticks out due to shipping. I think some companies (JDM in particular) specifically mention some external things aren't warrantied and you should plan on swapping them.

 

If you're amped about trans replacement down load the FSMs and look at the pinouts. (They're available free on the interwebs with some searching). If they're similar then there's a chance they'll work. This doesnnt guarantee all the solenoids are identical but may show it worth checking into. Then you can swap the new transmission pins into the old transmission connectors if the electronics are the same. Label all the wires then De-pin both connectors and swap the old onto the new.

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Make sure you don't have the 90-92 model legacy clogging trans line issue. Subaru made a fix or repair for this. Even if you have catastrophic trans failure or it's too late, I'd address that now.

 

automatic.

I'm interpreting the two metal lines as supply and return lines.

 

I've seen a lot of engine and trans damage to anything that sticks out due to shipping. I think some companies (JDM in particular) specifically mention some external things aren't warrantied and you should plan on swapping them.

 

If you're amped about trans replacement down load the FSMs and look at the pinouts. (They're available free on the interwebs with some searching). If they're similar then there's a chance they'll work. This doesnnt guarantee all the solenoids are identical but may show it worth checking into. Then you can swap the new transmission pins into the old transmission connectors if the electronics are the same. Label all the wires then De-pin both connectors and swap the old onto the new.

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Make sure you don't have the 90-92 model legacy clogging trans line issue. Subaru made a fix or repair for this. Even if you have catastrophic trans failure or it's too late, I'd address that now.

 

automatic.

I'm interpreting the two metal lines as supply and return lines.

 

I've seen a lot of engine and trans damage to anything that sticks out due to shipping. I think some companies (JDM in particular) specifically mention some external things aren't warrantied and you should plan on swapping them.

 

If you're amped about trans replacement down load the FSMs and look at the pinouts. (They're available free on the interwebs with some searching). If they're similar then there's a chance they'll work. This doesnnt guarantee all the solenoids are identical but may show it worth checking into. Then you can swap the new transmission pins into the old transmission connectors if the electronics are the same. Label all the wires then De-pin both connectors and swap the old onto the new.

Clogging line issue??

 

Yes, the supply & return lines.

 

FSM's?? What are those & how search?

 

Existing transmission has a TOTAL of 7 wires, new transmission has like 10 or so in each connector.

Edited by yankneck
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I found a FSM , but of course it was missing the Automatic Transmission section. I'll keep looking but I'm really nervous without direct directions. I can't afford to just buy yet another tranny if I screw this one up.

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Post up some pics of the differences. We can guide you through it.

 

Only way i can think that it gets screwed up is if the torque converter is not fully seated it will crush the pump and your transmission is only useful as a boat anchor or to hold down a tarp.

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Post up some pics of the differences. We can guide you through it.

 

Only way i can think that it gets screwed up is if the torque converter is not fully seated it will crush the pump and your transmission is only useful as a boat anchor or to hold down a tarp.

How do I link pictures here?

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Good god I feel like an idiot. Guess that's what happens when trying to locate things without good lighting. Good thing I didn't finish trying to drop it because I still have the 2 wire harnesses connected. I got to looking better after seeing on a site say the connectors I was looking at were for the crank, cam & knock sensors. Now to just safely get it out & back in. I hate mechanicing on the street. Thanks for the responses & help.

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How do I link pictures here?

 

I upload them to photobucket. Then you can copy the IMG code and paste it into the text and it shows up here.

 

Keep at it. Transmission swaps on these cars are easier than most would think. I picked up an 05 outback sitting in the driveway with no forward gears waiting for some better weather and maybe the completion of my garage and I'll be doing it again.

 

Keep aware of the wiring and hoses so nothing gets kinked or crimped. Spread the weight around a lot if the trans is being jacked up on the pan. Be 100% sure the torque converter is seated before mating the engine and trans.

 

otherwise it's just a matter of nuts, bolts and a little wiggling. Making sure your fluids are correct and full.

 

First time I ever did it I jacked it up by wrapping ratchet straps through the interior of the car and raising the trans that way. Took a lot longer so I use a trans jack nowadays.

 

Also helps to jack up the motor from the front when connecting the trans so the angles line up. You'll save an hour of wiggling and pushing by doing so.

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I was about to post that all Legacy auto's from 90 to 98 are the same and there is no auto that only has 7 wires. Looks like you found your mistake there. 

 

It should swap - you just need to swap over the cooler lines most likely. Make sure you don't use the torque converter from the old transmission and make sure you flush out the cooler lines and the pipe going through the radiator tank.

 

Some early 90/91 models had a recall done that installed a filter in the fender area near the battery as they were worried about casting flash in the transmissions from production clogging the cooler in the radiator. Make sure you delete this if you have it as it may be clogged due to trans failure and it is unlikely you need to worry about casting flash on a 25 year old replacement used transmission. 

 

GD

Edited by GeneralDisorder
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I was about to post that all Legacy auto's from 90 to 98 are the same and there is no auto that only has 7 wires. Looks like you found your mistake there.

 

It should swap - you just need to swap over the cooler lines most likely. Make sure you don't use the torque converter from the old transmission and make sure you flush out the cooler lines and the pipe going through the radiator tank.

 

Some early 90/91 models had a recall done that installed a filter in the fender area near the battery as they were worried about casting flash in the transmissions from production clogging the cooler in the radiator. Make sure you delete this if you have it as it may be clogged due to trans failure and it is unlikely you need to worry about casting flash on a 25 year old replacement used transmission.

 

GD

Flush them how? Totally no way I would use my existing torque converter, was always told unless it's BRAND NEW, you keep the converter with it's transmission. I'm currently fighting to get it slid the last inch or so to get behind the front crossover so it can come straight down.

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Spray through the lines with brake cleaner and compressed air. At least that's how we do it. There are some foaming cleaners they sell for this purpose - sometimes when I buy a JDM trans my supplier will include this for warranty purposes.

 

GD

Have brake cleaner, no compressed air ????
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Well then just blow through it with your mouth and a bit of hose. Let them air dry for a bit. Just make sure fluid can flow through it. The early transmissions had no filter in the pan so want to make sure you don't contaminate the new trans.

 

GD

I can do that, thanks.

Just to confirm, we are talking the return & supply lines where they disconnected from the tranny, right?

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