AC issue 03 Bean

[Lverano]

I replaced an AC hose, and discharged the whole system. I had to power my compressor with a power probe to get the 12 ounce can of refrigerant to cycle through when I recharged the system, which was a success, so there should be enough pressure in the system to kick the compressor on when I turn on the AC. I also added 6 ounces of oil. It takes 25 ounces to completely charge the system.

 

When the AC is running, is there ever a time when the compressor will stop for any reason, like maybe if the outside temperature is cold? I think I had this problem before I changed the hose with the AC not kicking on half the time, I just ignored it. I can see the compressor kick in when I hit the AC switch, but then it stops and will not come back on.

 

It ran constantly with the power probe powering it, and I tried a different relay, but the relay turned out fine. I also unplugged the battery for a time to see if that would reset anything... if it was just a bad compressor, that would be easy. Hope it's not electrical.

[GreaseMonkey03]

You're going to have to make sure it's fully charged in order to eliminate the cut off that occurs when the system is low.

My guess is that there isn't enough in it. Especially if it was running fine before.

Ac charging is also sensitive to ambient air temp. If you're using one of those auto zone cans, follow the directions for temp.

Edited March 6, 2017 by GreaseMonkey03

[Lverano]

You're going to have to make sure it's fully charged in order to eliminate the cut off that occurs when the system is low.

My guess is that there isn't enough in it. Especially if it was running fine before.

Ac charging is also sensitive to ambient air temp. If you're using one of those auto zone cans, follow the directions for temp.

It's my understanding the system holds 25 ounces, and I recon i have roughly 15 to 18 in there.  Maybe it's much more than the 25??  I honestly don't know for sure.  I guess I'll give it another whack on the weekend.  Thanks for the reply!  How you doing G.Monkey, what you driving?

[GreaseMonkey03]

I'm doing well thanks. I have a 97 legacy outback that is half 03 forester. Getting ready for a lift and hopefully will eventually become 1/3 wrx one day. I have a few other non Subaru toys as well.

 

Ac systems aren't overly complex electrically. If the compressor kicks in even for a little bit, it's most likely fine as far as that goes.

There's a couple possibilities you have to eliminate at this point that you're currently at, unfortunately it may cost you more time and money than it would have cost just having it charged at a shop after you did your repair. Shops put a vacuum on the system to make sure there are no leaks. New lines will often leak at their weakest link, the gasket. There can also be additional leaks which are found using a dye. So this is the course of action I would take at this point. Because you may ultimately end up chasing a leak but if you do this you can kill two birds with one stone (repair or diagnose)

 

With the car and ac on, put more refrigerant in the system. If the length of time the clutch stays engaged doesn't start to improve, you may be losing it faster than you can install it (large leak) if the length of time improves, watch the gauge on the can and fill according to temp guide on the gauge. If you notice as the clutch is cycling that the pressure on the gauge drops, you have a leak. If you fill and it works but stops blowing cold later on down the line you have a small leak obviously. But if you fill and it stays working indefinitely, you're good.

 

If you reopen the system now, you're going to lose what you put in there. Or you can take it to a shop and have them vacuum test it (you will lose what you put in there) and fill it. If vacuum test fails you can have them inject the dye and after some time you can look for the leak yourself and replace the leaking part/seal.

 

If the clutch is kicking in at all and it was running fine before, everything should be electrically sound. You can also check for power at the clutch with a test light if you want to eliminate that possibility. But like I said, if it's kicking in at all on its own without a power probe then it obviously has power.

Edited March 7, 2017 by GreaseMonkey03

[idosubaru]

My guess is you get the right charge and it'll be fine. That's usually the case.

 

It's a waste of time if you're guessing on the charge. Even the cheap/plastic throw away one-time use gauges at the auto parts store are reasonable enough for DIY work or diagnosing if you don't have a full manifold gauge set. i've got a full set and almost never use it, like once in 10 years.

 

The two orings between the air hoses and a/c compressors leak *all* *the* *time*, particularly on those H6's. I was seeing that and repairing it multiple times - so far almost every subaru a/c failure i've repaired was those two orings - and yet I had never seen one person, friend, or thread that said "My mechanic/shop replaced the orings and fixed my subaru". I did a write up which hit on a common and largely un-talked about issue, which now is widely known:

 

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/99-do-yourself-illustrated-guides/43428-diy-c-air-conditioning-leak-refrigerant-repair-5-less-15-minutes-less.html

 

6 ounces sounds like a ton of oil to add but i'm sure it spreads through the system and covers the internals.

Edited March 7, 2017 by grossgary

[GeneralDisorder]

We do just the o-rings all the time. But in recent years it seems like the 99+ stuff has a lot of hose failures.

 

GD

[Lverano]

My guess is you get the right charge and it'll be fine. That's usually the case.

 

It's a waste of time if you're guessing on the charge. Even the cheap/plastic throw away one-time use gauges at the auto parts store are reasonable enough for DIY work or diagnosing if you don't have a full manifold gauge set. i've got a full set and almost never use it, like once in 10 years.

 

The two orings between the air hoses and a/c compressors leak *all* *the* *time*, particularly on those H6's. I was seeing that and repairing it multiple times - so far almost every subaru a/c failure i've repaired was those two orings - and yet I had never seen one person, friend, or thread that said "My mechanic/shop replaced the orings and fixed my subaru". I did a write up which hit on a common and largely un-talked about issue, which now is widely known:

 

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/99-do-yourself-illustrated-guides/43428-diy-c-air-conditioning-leak-refrigerant-repair-5-less-15-minutes-less.html

 

6 ounces sounds like a ton of oil to add but i'm sure it spreads through the system and covers the internals.

A guy on Youtube showed me about the rings.  I did read your write up too though.  And yes, I replaced those rings for sure, was easy, mine were all flattened out.  I got a whole box of green O-rings from harbor freight for like $5.00.  

 

Correction, the oil amount I put in was 3oz, not 6, so it sounds like your probably right, the system is probably 10 or more oz. low.  The cans are only 5 bucks at walmart, it's a steal.  It's worth 5 bucks just for a trouble shoot if anything.  

 

So How's ggary's Subaru?  Are you still swapping the transmissions ?  I'll tell you one thing, go with the Redline Heavy Shockproof you won't be sorry.  It's saving me costly and time consuming transmission swap on my Sub.  I've still got that buzzing in my front diff, but it's not getting worse.  I've driven it 11,000 miles now and still going strong.  I think I may put some in the rear as well to even up the drag, if it even matters.  

[Lverano]

I'm doing well thanks. I have a 97 legacy outback that is half 03 forester. Getting ready for a lift and hopefully will eventually become 1/3 wrx one day. I have a few other non Subaru toys as well.

 

Ac systems aren't overly complex electrically. If the compressor kicks in even for a little bit, it's most likely fine as far as that goes.

There's a couple possibilities you have to eliminate at this point that you're currently at, unfortunately it may cost you more time and money than it would have cost just having it charged at a shop after you did your repair. Shops put a vacuum on the system to make sure there are no leaks. New lines will often leak at their weakest link, the gasket. There can also be additional leaks which are found using a dye. So this is the course of action I would take at this point. Because you may ultimately end up chasing a leak but if you do this you can kill two birds with one stone (repair or diagnose)

 

With the car and ac on, put more refrigerant in the system. If the length of time the clutch stays engaged doesn't start to improve, you may be losing it faster than you can install it (large leak) if the length of time improves, watch the gauge on the can and fill according to temp guide on the gauge. If you notice as the clutch is cycling that the pressure on the gauge drops, you have a leak. If you fill and it works but stops blowing cold later on down the line you have a small leak obviously. But if you fill and it stays working indefinitely, you're good.

 

If you reopen the system now, you're going to lose what you put in there. Or you can take it to a shop and have them vacuum test it (you will lose what you put in there) and fill it. If vacuum test fails you can have them inject the dye and after some time you can look for the leak yourself and replace the leaking part/seal.

 

If the clutch is kicking in at all and it was running fine before, everything should be electrically sound. You can also check for power at the clutch with a test light if you want to eliminate that possibility. But like I said, if it's kicking in at all on its own without a power probe then it obviously has power.

Wow, sounds like you have a lot of time for projects.

 

I don't think I have a system leak.  I'm not too worried over AC, it could really suck not having it in the heat of summer, but oh well, I'll live I guess.  I think i'm about 10oz. low on the charge, so I'm going to slap one more 5 buck can in there from walmart and see what happens.  Good to know the compressor is likely not fried.  

[GreaseMonkey03]

Would be a good idea to spend the little extra and get the can that comes with the gauge on it. Even better if you get the one with the reusable trigger dispenser. Worth it to know your system is fully charge.

 

I don't have a lot of time but I try to make the most of the time I have. And I have the benefit of a shop full of tools and two lifts.

[1 Lucky Texan]

We do just the o-rings all the time. But in recent years it seems like the 99+ stuff has a lot of hose failures.

 

GD

 

 

^^^^point taken

 

The discharge hose on our 03 H6 has been changed twice. Kinda wonder about vibration since it bends ~90* from the comp. to the condenser. . maybe that 'elbow' of rubber flopping up-down causes early failure? I have looked for a way to brace it - doesn't seem like I could come up with a 'clean'/elegant way to do it.

Edited March 7, 2017 by 1 Lucky Texan

[DaveT]

Drawing a vacuum on the ac system isn't just to check for leaks. It removes air and moisture from the system.