rio_red Posted March 8, 2017 Share Posted March 8, 2017 Hi all, I'm brand new to the forum - thanks in advance for any help, and apologies in advance for any forum faux pas my unaware self may make. I acquired a 1991 Loyale a few months ago after owning several SF5 Foresters, I'm loving it but I've ran into some trouble. We had a heck of an "ice storm" here in Northern Colorado a few weeks ago, which led to me sliding into a curb with my rear passenger's wheel at 5-10mph at most. It was essentially raining, but the drops would freeze on contact with anything they touched, literally every exposed surface - including the road- was a sheet of ice. Excuses aside, I can't say I blame myself too much at this point, I was lucky to get home alive that night (6 people in the Denver area weren't). To the point... I believe I've bent my rear lower control arm (trailing arm?) and I think I need to replace it. The affected rear wheel is toeing out fairly significantly, I have to keep the steering wheel turned about 25 degrees off center to go in a straight line. Visually, nothing appears really mangled and I think I've narrowed it down to the "inner" control arm being bent. I tried an alignment procedure I found on AllData (with sh***y hand tools in the cold), which did very little if anything at all. I've read mixed reports whether the rear suspension really adjusts for alignment in these cars so I'm not sure if it was a fault on my end. Anyways, my main concern is the difficulty of swapping out the LCA, I was hoping to hear from someone that's done it. I'm employed and a full time college student - I'm very much reliant on having a car, and naturally I'm broke as well. So I'm hoping to accomplish this in a weekend. I have very limited experience with suspension work, I'm not sure what special tools I'd need to do this and what parts will need to be replaced along with the LCA. I'll be getting the LCA from a local yard, they take off the parts for you by appointment so I'm probably gonna ask to watch them take it off just so I can get some preliminary experience. $100 is what I'll be charged. The replacement is coming off a pretty rusty junker, but my vehicle along with the rest of the suspension is in very good shape. Looking at my 1985 factory manuals, there seems to be a fairly large array of bushings and other various bits. Can I take bushings out of my old arm and put them in the "new" one? Where would I order replacements if not, from Subaru? Is there a complete kit out there? What tools are needed for the replacement? Any particularly difficult aspects of the job that would prevent a reasonably mechanically inclined youth to do the job himself with basic tools? Can I swap the entire drum brake carrier (sorry not sure what the part is called) onto the new arm with ease, or should I look for an assembly in good condition? Everything but the metal arm seems to be toast on the junkyard Loyale, so it would be nice to just swap it over. There's probably lots more I'm forgetting, but any helpful info (or best case a rough "procedure" to follow) would be greatly appreciated. Thanks a lot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted March 8, 2017 Share Posted March 8, 2017 I'm only guessing, but getting the bushings out is going to be tough with any rust. The backing plate for the brake system is held onto the arm with 3 bolts and nuts, easy to swap. Use anti seize compound on bolts etc. when you reassemble. Rear trailing arm sounds like what you are talking about replacing. Try to verify that the tube that they bolt to isn't damaged. You'll need 17mm wrench and a 17mm socket with extensions to get all of the mounting bolts / nuts. Some might be pretty stuck, so go easy - work them off gradually if they feel like they start getting tighter after beginning to unscrew. Use penetrating oil on them to help also. If you just go at rusty bolt hard, you can snap them and make the project a lot more work. Since you'll be into the brakes, check all that stuff too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted March 8, 2017 Share Posted March 8, 2017 Yes you will need to replace the rear trailing arm. Get a used one - quite sure they are NLA from Subaru. The more complete of a rear suspension sub assembly you can find the easier it will be. Try to find one with a good bearing. Since you will be getting used you should not have to deal with any bushings. Though if you like you can order a Super Pro bushing kit for it and do that while it's apart. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BratRod Posted March 8, 2017 Share Posted March 8, 2017 Follow this http://www.mainelysubarus.com/forums/topic/9593-pictorial-wheel-bearing-guide-ea-loyale-4wd-rear/ My buddy actually did the exact same thing - but he was dicking around in the ice the day we finished HGs. We actually had to buy a new arm from Subaru. It was almost $250, IIRC. I don't remember how long it took. This was a couple years ago. And we didn't have any power tools. Maybe a couple hours? It's very diy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted March 8, 2017 Share Posted March 8, 2017 Where can that bushing kit be ordered? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rio_red Posted March 8, 2017 Author Share Posted March 8, 2017 Thanks a lot everyone, one more thing... When it's all said and done, can I set the alignment by myself? I took it to an alignment shop after it happened, hoping something just got knocked out of place - they told me they weren't even going to try and adjust the rear because it is a weird configuration or something along those lines Where can that bushing kit be ordered? http://www.superpro.com.au/find/superpro-suspension-parts-and-poly-bushings-for-subaru-leone-gen-ii-sedan-wagon-1979-1994-/cid-999500431 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rio_red Posted March 8, 2017 Author Share Posted March 8, 2017 (edited) One more thing, should I replace the wheel bearing as well? I believe the previous owner put new Timken bearings in all around shortly before I bought it, and it doesn't seem to be making any noise or grind. And yet another thing, if I plug the brake line like in the tutorial BratRod linked, will I have to bleed the brakes? Again, I'm no mechanic - apologies for the silly questions Thanks again Edited March 8, 2017 by rio_red Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted March 8, 2017 Share Posted March 8, 2017 The FSM likely has dimensions for how to check the rear alignment. There isn't much adjust-ability in it. The FSM does have alignment dimensions for the front, and I've done that. Its more of a project to replace the bearings, So I'd see how they feel, how the grease looks, how the seals look, etc. My recent rear bearing project: http://www.dynahoedave.co.nf/rearwheelbearing.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted March 8, 2017 Share Posted March 8, 2017 http://www.superpro.com.au Rally sport direct deals in super pro. Just give them the part number you want and they will order it from Australia. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted March 8, 2017 Share Posted March 8, 2017 You'll have to bleed that caliper, but not the rest if you're able to plug just the one line. if a bolt gets tight just leave it and come back to it so it has a chance to cool down. As they get tight they heat up which aids shearing. If they may be bad I'll work them back and forth - loosen, turn back in, loosen, turn back in....repeat. Take breaks if they're heating up. This keeps them from shearing. Do you have to disconnect the brake line? I'm wondering if you can't just unbolt it all and push it out of the way without disconnecting anything. I think a brake line may be connected to the arm but there's probably a way around that like the lines onfront struts - just notch the hold down clip so you can bend one side out of the way and slide the brake line out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdventureSubaru Posted March 8, 2017 Share Posted March 8, 2017 I know there are a few u pull its in the Denver area. Once you locate what's bent, that's often the way to go for used parts. Some keep an inventory of cars in the yard. Some dont. If not - Car-part.com is extremely helpful. You pay a little more sometimes but don't usually have to pull the part yourself (Or I've been to a couple that discount it if you pull it yourself. Insurance companies may have made this a non option these days. Usually the part will be warrantied for 30-90 days too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted March 8, 2017 Share Posted March 8, 2017 (edited) I've done it, bent the one on my XT6 once, and replaced it with one that I have that did not have sway mounts, and then later got my hands on one with mounts and swapped that in. 2017-07-25_01-38-35 by Numbchux, on Flickr It's not too difficult. There's a bunch to do, but nothing that requires any special skills or tools (assuming you don't need to do the bearing). Like GD said, the more complete the part you get, the easier the job will be. If you can get one with a good bearing and brake assembly, that'll save you a ton of time. The bearing is supposed to require a special socket (which, to my knowledge, is not available anymore) to remove from the arm. But it can be done with some careful work with a punch/drift to spin the retainer out, and then you'll need a press to get the bearing out. You'll need a 3/16" punch to separate the axle from the stub that goes through the arm. Brake lines are fed through mounts on the trailing arm in a few places, you will have to disconnect the rubber line where it goes up to the body, and bleed the system. You'll want flare nut wrenches for that (IIRC, 12mm and 17mm), and then there are 2 pivot bolts where the trailing arm attaches to the crossmember, and one at the bottom of the shock. Your junkyard arm will come with bushings on it. Just use those. If you need/want to swap the brake assembly, you'll need a 36mm socket to pull the drum/hub assembly, and then there are 3 bolts that hold the backing plate and stuff to the arm, you can remove those 3 bolts (and the brake line), and swap everything as an assembly. One of those bolts has a nut on the back, the other 2 are threaded into the arm. There are 2 washers under the 36mm nut, these are both directional to maintain the correct pressure on everything (one is very obviously conical, the other is very subtle). There is a small bit of alignment adjustment available back there, it is a strange system...Here's the page out of the service manual on how to do it. You can make the adjustment yourself, but you won't know what adjustment to make without an alignment rack. That said, I'd just swap it, and see how it drives, probably close enough.... 2017-07-25_02-00-04 by Numbchux, on Flickr Edited July 25, 2017 by Numbchux Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdventureSubaru Posted March 8, 2017 Share Posted March 8, 2017 I'd probably ignore the bearing unless its growling after the repair. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagonist Posted March 9, 2017 Share Posted March 9, 2017 Before you get too much further, check that you haven't damaged the subframe that the arm hangs off. See the pic in Bratrod's post above. You can see the arm in the bottom left of the pic. EXCEPT, if you can, remove the other part of the arm with it intact. In the pic, you can see an arm in front of the wheel with 3 holes in the end. It's only held in with 1 bolt at the other end. Try to get these 2 arm pieces together. The 3 holes are where the "alignment" can happen, so buying it all bolted together means you may get away without the alignment being needed. Slightly more difficult to lift into place, but not that much harder. Your brakes will swap over to the new arm. Just makes sure you get 4wd rear arms, they are different to the FWD version Undo the axle nut. It's 36mm, though I've used a monkey wrench in the past & undo (not remove) this nut with the wheel on the ground & not jacked up. It'll be tight. Then jack up & remove the brake drum, only need 3x 14mm to hold the backing plate onto the arm. Should be 17mm bolt holding the shock, & then 17mm holding the arm onto the subframe. 10mm & 14mm pipe (flare) spanners for the brake lines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted March 12, 2017 Share Posted March 12, 2017 Easier still would be removing the whole rear assembly, K frame and swing arms together, then bolt this in. These subarus are simple in their rear suspension design. There's nothing complicated in it and would be heap easier to install than just an arm on its own. You'll also be replacing ALL components that could possibly be bent Cheers Bennie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagonist Posted March 12, 2017 Share Posted March 12, 2017 Might have trouble finding a full rear setup in that part of the world. I've seen some pretty rusty ones on this forum over the years... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Please sign in to comment
You will be able to leave a comment after signing in
Sign In Now