drewpear Posted March 11, 2017 Share Posted March 11, 2017 howdy folks,just gotta love forums.i recently bought my housemate's 1999 outbackthe crankshaft pulley went bad while he owned it.there was some work done to get at the problem.at this point the issue appears to be that the crankshaft sprocket cannot slide offthe crank because the key broke and is jamming things up.my housemate tried a puller with 3 prongs and a central screw butcouldn't get it to fit properly, maybe because it was too large.is this the approach to take?damaging the sprocket is something i thought of.i have the new pulley and the belt is good.it seems that i am close to having a really fine car ormiles away because i really can't afford to take it anywhere.thanks for any suggestions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drewpear Posted March 11, 2017 Author Share Posted March 11, 2017 that would be a broken key Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted March 11, 2017 Share Posted March 11, 2017 There are holes in the sprocket - tap them 8mm x 1.25 and use a steering wheel puller. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted March 11, 2017 Share Posted March 11, 2017 Grind cut at key way, tap pull it'll come off. If you had to Dremmel the pulley it could be cut off as a last resort, sacrifice the pump to finish. Wouldn't be worth all the effort though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GreaseMonkey03 Posted March 11, 2017 Share Posted March 11, 2017 I'm a bit slow so I'm confused. What's stuck and what's broken? The sprocket or the pulley? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
montana tom Posted March 11, 2017 Share Posted March 11, 2017 If i'm reading your post correctly , you have the ballencer /pulley off , and you are trying to remove the sprocket so you can replace the key ?? general disorder's idea on tapping the holes and using a steering wheel puller would work well. careful placement of large screwdrivers prying behind the sprocket will help, just don't damage any of the rear ring on the sprocket, it is what sends the crank signal to the computer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drewpear Posted March 12, 2017 Author Share Posted March 12, 2017 (edited) There are holes in the sprocket - tap them 8mm x 1.25 and use a steering wheel puller. GD sweet. thank you... is that why they are there? Edited March 12, 2017 by drewpear Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drewpear Posted March 12, 2017 Author Share Posted March 12, 2017 If i'm reading your post correctly , you have the ballencer /pulley off , and you are trying to remove the sprocket so you can replace the key ?? general disorder's idea on tapping the holes and using a steering wheel puller would work well. careful placement of large screwdrivers prying behind the sprocket will help, just don't damage any of the rear ring on the sprocket, it is what sends the crank signal to the computer. yes, that's correct. i don't understand the assembly yet in regards to the key and how it functions. does it key the pulley and the sprocket on the crank? the pulley is off and the sprocket won't budge and i was told the key broke and i thought a flange of metal on the key is preventing it from sliding in the keyway. is there much chance of damaging the keyway with the broken key as i pull on the sprocket? and the screwdriver would be used to assist the puller? how far away is the perimeter of the rear ring on the sprocket from a sprocket valley (if that's what it's called) thanks a lot for your input Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drewpear Posted March 12, 2017 Author Share Posted March 12, 2017 (edited) I'm a bit slow so I'm confused. What's stuck and what's broken? The sprocket or the pulley? i hear that...i think they have support groups for people like us... the sprocket is stuck. the pulley is off. i'm told the key broke. it was seen by a profesional. he wanted a million dollars. i wonder what broke first? would it of been the key? the pulley? i noticed that an idler pulley, near and just below the crank pulley if i remember correctly, is exhibiting a degree of disintegrity in it's bearings and should be replaced i believe. could that of started this mess? Edited March 12, 2017 by drewpear Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drewpear Posted March 12, 2017 Author Share Posted March 12, 2017 that would be a broken key yuppers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drewpear Posted March 12, 2017 Author Share Posted March 12, 2017 (edited) Grind cut at key way, tap pull it'll come off. If you had to Dremmel the pulley it could be cut off as a last resort, sacrifice the pump to finish. Wouldn't be worth all the effort though. thank you. i don't understand grind cut at key way. Edited March 12, 2017 by drewpear Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdventureSubaru Posted March 12, 2017 Share Posted March 12, 2017 Regardless of approach some WD-40 or better yet, PB blaster will help as it begins to move. Has made a big difference removing both the crank pulley and the sprocket for me in the past. The fix is simple once everything is apart. I even have a couple used crank pulleys if you need one. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drewpear Posted March 12, 2017 Author Share Posted March 12, 2017 (edited) Regardless of approach some WD-40 or better yet, PB blaster will help as it begins to move. Has made a big difference removing both the crank pulley and the sprocket for me in the past. The fix is simple once everything is apart. I even have a couple used crank pulleys if you need one. i love it when a plan comes together. a can of pb blaster showed up around here. i had never heard of it before. cool. thank you for your offer. i have purchased one already online. i'm curious about re-assembly. i'm told that with what has been removed at this point there aren't any timing issues. can this be correct if only the crank pulley has been removed? Edited March 12, 2017 by drewpear Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdventureSubaru Posted March 12, 2017 Share Posted March 12, 2017 If just the crank pulley is off, then the timing is all still the same. You would have to remove the timing belt if you pull the crank sprocket underneath. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdventureSubaru Posted March 12, 2017 Share Posted March 12, 2017 (edited) i hear that...i think they have support groups for people like us... the sprocket is stuck. the pulley is off. i'm told the key broke. it was seen by a profesional. he wanted a million dollars. i wonder what broke first? would it of been the key? the pulley? i noticed that an idler pulley, near and just below the crank pulley if i remember correctly, is exhibiting a degree of disintegrity in it's bearings and should be replaced i believe. could that of started this mess? It wouldn't affect the crank pulley, but this should be addressed ASAP - the idler sprocket below the crank sprocket, just to the left of the water pump is often the first piece in the timing system to fail. When it grenades, it takes the timing belt with it and trashes the valves leaving you stranded and in need of either a new motor, new/used heads or a valve job. I'd get a hold of a Gates timing belt kit and put that on before driving anywhere. You may have dodged a bullet there. Replace it as a kit because if one is showing symptoms, the others wont be far behind. Do the timing now and thank that bad crank pulley - it probably saved your motor. Edited March 12, 2017 by AdventureSubaru 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drewpear Posted March 12, 2017 Author Share Posted March 12, 2017 It wouldn't affect the crank pulley, but this should be addressed ASAP - the idler sprocket below the crank sprocket, just to the left of the water pump is often the first piece in the timing system to fail. When it grenades, it takes the timing belt with it and trashes the valves leaving you stranded and in need of either a new motor, new/used heads or a valve job. I'd get a hold of a Gates timing belt kit and put that on before driving anywhere. You may have dodged a bullet there. Replace it as a kit because if one is showing symptoms, the others wont be far behind. Do the timing now and thank that bad crank pulley - it probably saved your motor. yikes! no worries eh? just gotta make some marks and everythings going to be okay... sound advice. so i took a look online the first two links are for gates brand. i don't understand the difference in the kits or the pricing being from the same company. the third link has the best price. can you help me to understand what i should get. i do like the cheapest one...lol i know it's not always the best choice, but in this day and age, with online, things are different. i imagine gates is just a good brand? thank you http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/WC/397-01105017.html http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/DC/407-05287181.html http://www.carparts.com/details/Subaru/Legacy/Replacement/Timing_Belt_Kit/1999/KIT1-041415-12-B.html?TID=gglpla&origin=pla&gclid=Cj0KEQiAgJTGBRDLr5_az_Ouk44BEiQAIxaA4psKsQh1CfMu_PpA51T3C98nIOkJH9Kw9_RdLgJ1mh8aAuOj8P8HAQ&gclsrc=aw.ds Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdventureSubaru Posted March 12, 2017 Share Posted March 12, 2017 First two the difference is whether or not the water pump is included. it's timing driven so often good to replace at the same time. 3rd is not gates brand from what I can tell. What motor is in there? 99 was a crossover year. Yours is probably the EJ25 DOHC not the newer EJ25 SOHC. If so, double check that the part number is the same for a 98 outback as sometimes they get these confused and send the wrong kit. And yes. Gates is a respected brand that produces the same reliability as Subaru timing components but at about 30% of the cost. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drewpear Posted March 12, 2017 Author Share Posted March 12, 2017 (edited) doh! i thought they both had water pumps. i think they call that a brain fart... i'm not sure about the engine type. i'll have to investigate. one of the other idler pulleys is well rusted and the other is starting too. you are correct that it's the idler sprocket that is failing. thanks for the heads up. do you have an idea of what might have caused this issue. what failed. Edited March 12, 2017 by drewpear Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drewpear Posted March 12, 2017 Author Share Posted March 12, 2017 so where is a good tutorial on installing this kit to this car? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdventureSubaru Posted March 12, 2017 Share Posted March 12, 2017 If yours is DOHC (Which it should be) Get very familiar with the timing marks. Getting them all lined up can be tricky. I gently C clamp the belt on the cams as I go so they stay put. Turn the motor over 2 full revolutions and make sure the timing marks still line up. (Belt marks can help but the timing marks on the motor are what you need to go by.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drewpear Posted March 12, 2017 Author Share Posted March 12, 2017 thank you very much for the video link. the belt is no longer on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
montana tom Posted March 12, 2017 Share Posted March 12, 2017 After you install your timing belt and make 2 revolutions by hand. If the timing marks are not correct then you will have to do it over. The tensioner will have to be compressed ... DO THIS SLOWLY in a vice or you will ruin it. Expect to have to attempt this timing belt install more than once, rarely will I get a dohc on the first try and I've done quite a few. Take your time and try till you get it correct. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted March 12, 2017 Share Posted March 12, 2017 a tooth count is an additional method to check timing. belt markings will only be accurate before turning the crank - they won't line-up properly again for over a hundred revolutions I think! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drewpear Posted April 3, 2017 Author Share Posted April 3, 2017 (edited) i pulled the crank sprocket yesterday using the tap and pull method. here is what the key way looks like. it's not looking too well i think. a little research suggested that there may be an option to use loctite, jb, or other metal bonding/fill product. to repair the key way. any suggestions? i'm curious. what probably broke first, the key or keyway? Edited April 3, 2017 by drewpear Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocketman Posted April 3, 2017 Share Posted April 3, 2017 Wow,how long were covers off of this? That is rrealy rusty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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