Evil02outback Posted March 15, 2017 Share Posted March 15, 2017 Hi all, I recently picked up a very nice looking 02 outback for a little bit of horse trading, and from the beginning I knew it had issues. the what the original problem was " it leaked from the cam seals" ok big deal probably didnt use OEM seals cause eveybody i talk to says to use OEM seals and gaskets, Ill get in to that in another thread. And so I get the wagon home and change the seals out, while i was troubleshooting a ECM issue later finding out it was the main ground on the head, i feel kinda dumb cause i already checked all the grounds, so i thought. After i get the car running and start to burp the cooling system there was a bunch of extra noise that shouldn't be there, I'm thinking the worst it spun a rod bearing, and a buddy talks me in to pulling the engine (which is the easiest i have ever done i must say), I get the valve covers off and not a one bolt on the cam caps was tight to the point that there was a gap of at least 1/8 inch from the valve stem. I was thinking great that's my extra noise and oil leak (cause oil was just puking out) so i got everything put back together to subaru specs and put the engine back in and running (it really helps to plug the crank position sensor in if you want the car to run) after i get the car running it still had a ticking that i don't like but i have not worked on many subarus so it is possible that it is normal but i dont think so here is a short video of the noise please tell me your thoughtsnow gets to the topic title, I need another engine for it, ill keep this one and rebuild it for either another car or have it for a spare. has anybody swaped a imported 2 liter cause thats all i am finding for the 35-50k engines from japan and what all is involved in doing so if there is anything different to do to it. Or does anybody know where i could pick up a junkyard motor for a decent price. thanks for your time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted March 15, 2017 Share Posted March 15, 2017 (edited) You haven't got the valves adjusted correctly. .008" on the intakes, .010" on the exhaust. Personally I go 6 and 8 though. Makes them quieter and if you aim tight more than likely they will end up that extra 2 thou looser than you aimed for anyway. You don't want a 2 liter. The powner loss sucks. Call some yards and find an engine with bent valves from a front-end. Swap the valves out they are cheap. But the noise from your engine isn't a rod. That's valve lash clatter. I do this every day. Sometimes twice a day GD Edited March 15, 2017 by GeneralDisorder 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evil02outback Posted March 15, 2017 Author Share Posted March 15, 2017 (edited) i adjusted them before i put the valve covers on but i suppose i could have done it incorrectly. can this be done in the car or do i need to remove the engine? Edited March 15, 2017 by Evil02outback Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted March 15, 2017 Share Posted March 15, 2017 Yes it can easily be done in the car. Feeler gauge and some patience. Do each cylinder with it at TDC compression stroke. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evil02outback Posted March 15, 2017 Author Share Posted March 15, 2017 thank you for the info i know what i am doing this weekend I'll update after it is done Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdventureSubaru Posted March 15, 2017 Share Posted March 15, 2017 Sounds like the way to go. Fix the one you've got and drive it. Depending on the mileage a little tapping especially at start up is common for these motors. I have done 3 EJ20 SOHC swaps over the years and have mixed feelings about them. The power loss is there. It's not bad until you are going up a steep hill or load the car down with 4 or 5 people/load of firewood etc. It will get you there and I've had good luck with them running just fine. Others have reported some issues. I make sure to get warranty in writing and make sure the engine is stamped accordingly just in case. If you ever do swap one, you keep your intake manifold, wiring etc. and scap the JDM stuff. Also keep the crank sprocket and the drivers cam pulley from your motor since the hash marks for the cam and crank sensors are different between US and japan. Also keep the flex plate from the 2.5 if automatic since it is bigger that the 2.2 or 2.0. It's a good cheap option, but like most used motors is not without risk. I'd put the power loss on par with putting the 2.2 in place of the dohc 2.5 on 90s cars. But as far as I know there's not any more reliability to the 2.0 over the 2.5 on these phase 2 motors like there was putting the 2.2 in place of the 2.5 on older cars. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evil02outback Posted March 15, 2017 Author Share Posted March 15, 2017 That's a lot of help thank you those are some of the answers I forgot to ask Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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