docmidBratt Posted January 4, 2021 Author Share Posted January 4, 2021 Update Well progress has been slow with covid, luck i'm in NZ anyway check this out Brumby bonnet with gt legacy reversed scoop. Just had the cage done. Tim at octane automotive here in Palmerston North. A piece of art Just working on placing of fuse box, starter panel and stuff like that. Picked up some rims off a stolen wrx. judging by the flat spots and spikes in the tyres a police chase. Anyway hope you enjoy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brumbyrunner Posted January 4, 2021 Share Posted January 4, 2021 Good progress dude. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted January 7, 2021 Share Posted January 7, 2021 Looking good mate! Cant wait to hear your report after a test blart on an open track! Cheers Bennie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docmidBratt Posted September 5, 2021 Author Share Posted September 5, 2021 More stuff done rear polycarb windows done with supports inside and out. wiring done, just needs finial mounting. boost gauge, rev counter and shift light, oil pressure gauge, volt meter, temp gauge and electric water pump all set up and going. centre console started (rear done ) got the carb for free, it was off cuts a business was throwing out. score 3 plus months working as courier slowed things down ( 70 plus hours a week ) back to postie work now. so getting closer. allot of little thing to finish off. like changing nut to lock nuts and stuff like that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docmidBratt Posted September 6, 2021 Author Share Posted September 6, 2021 And more update Decided to get the brake lights sorted With the old brumby sitting in the paddock for years the bulb fittings had rusted up. So a new setup was needed. a bit of a look at what stuff i had lying around come up with this. 1 drill out old socket 2 make hole bigger 3 wire up new fittings and add plugs 4 glue in fittings And very surprised how well the Ryobi 18 volt soldering iron went. warmed up in seconds. no waiting around for the plug in iron to warm up. just need to hook earth and power to test 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docmidBratt Posted January 30, 2022 Author Share Posted January 30, 2022 Back again after a few months Nothing but prime, sand ,prime, sand bog, prime sand. and finally top coat. Bonnet done front guards done boot done and now body done Just doors to do not far to go now 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted January 30, 2022 Share Posted January 30, 2022 Siiiiicccckkkkkk!!! I love that colour! I always wanted my old torana painted in an orange like that! That’s for the update, you must be getting excited after all this work you’ve done! Cheers Bennie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KiwiGL Posted February 2, 2022 Share Posted February 2, 2022 Looks good! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docmidBratt Posted February 9, 2022 Author Share Posted February 9, 2022 New update Added guards, bonnet with rubber stoppers, doors and some of the trim. Tomorrow if it dosn't rain, front bumper and rear windows Getting there 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rafavidmess Posted February 24, 2022 Share Posted February 24, 2022 What a Nice Build!! Hope to see it Racing Soon. Saludos! Rafa Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docmidBratt Posted March 31, 2022 Author Share Posted March 31, 2022 Update getting closer to finishing The rear pollycarb window in in and looking good. We have painted all bolts and the 2 alloy uprights black The rear bumper is almost finished We used a bit of frame off a small truck deck with a bit of steel of the farm. lots of cardboard and taps. We are going to put alloy treadplate painted black on the top of the bumper. did a small mock up and it looked sweet The front window is in. new rubber as well. surprised the window come up so good. still has a few melted spots from welding ha ha ha A sneak peak of final look with wheel on. finishing rear camera mirror setup. Have new covers for rear lights. Getting log book done. Got out a clear container and a old biscuit tin and did a mock up of how the sump buffer is going to go to keep oil in the bottom. Playing around with that, what a difference it made with just a few small lips. Will post picture when we tackle that (soon ) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brumbyrunner Posted March 31, 2022 Share Posted March 31, 2022 Good to see your progress. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted April 2, 2022 Share Posted April 2, 2022 Always great to see an update mate! Sounds like it’s not too far off now, but I’m sure you’ve still got that 10% to go that takes 90% of the time to do it… Cheers Bennie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docmidBratt Posted April 18, 2022 Author Share Posted April 18, 2022 Another update the sump build, with the previous playing around with the water tin experiment we came up with a plain. Using the old type sump for more oil volume an a bit of stuff lying around All bottom layer angled down and fully sealed around. so breathable but reduces the oil sloshing up and away from the bottom. upper layer solid but open around edges again to prevent splash. works a treat with water. you can see the bottom of the sump still full of oil when swing around. Any thoughts? The hole tt legacy only coat $400 so cheap engine to experiment with. ha ha ha next catch cans but might have to drop her on the ground and give her a spin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pontoontodd Posted April 18, 2022 Share Posted April 18, 2022 8 hours ago, docmidBratt said: Another update the sump build, with the previous playing around with the water tin experiment we came up with a plain. Using the old type sump for more oil volume an a bit of stuff lying around All bottom layer angled down and fully sealed around. so breathable but reduces the oil sloshing up and away from the bottom. upper layer solid but open around edges again to prevent splash. works a treat with water. you can see the bottom of the sump still full of oil when swing around. Any thoughts? The hole tt legacy only coat $400 so cheap engine to experiment with. ha ha ha next catch cans but might have to drop her on the ground and give her a spin Interesting. So two layers with the bottom one perforated? I suppose room temperature water probably has about the same viscosity as hot engine oil. I'd be a bit worried about having adequate drainage to the bottom, I'd try it with baffles that are angled downward more steeply and/or don't stick in as far from the walls. I'd be surprised if a significant amount of oil goes through the perforations. Some quick googling indicates the oil pump can flow about 10gpm (40 liters per minute) at high RPM, similar to a garden hose. You want to make sure that can all get to the bottom of the pan. Have you thought about making or buying a crank scraper/windage tray? Definitely let us know how the test run goes! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docmidBratt Posted April 19, 2022 Author Share Posted April 19, 2022 Thanks man So the bottom layer has about 20 degrees fall The perforations are to let any air out that might get in or trapped at bottom. I would have thought the oil would drain down? What percentage come through the bottom of the engine? and what percentage comes through the drain pipe? The upper layer also is angled down. not as much as bottom layer. do you think the top layer it is to restrictive? should I open it up more? As for windage tray I was trying to sort of do that with the 2 layers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pontoontodd Posted April 20, 2022 Share Posted April 20, 2022 16 hours ago, docmidBratt said: Thanks man So the bottom layer has about 20 degrees fall The perforations are to let any air out that might get in or trapped at bottom. I would have thought the oil would drain down? What percentage come through the bottom of the engine? and what percentage comes through the drain pipe? The upper layer also is angled down. not as much as bottom layer. do you think the top layer it is to restrictive? should I open it up more? As for windage tray I was trying to sort of do that with the 2 layers Take all this with a giant grain of salt. I have assembled dozens of automotive engines, even won some races with some of them, but have only assembled one Subaru engine. Proper oil control is definitely key to longevity especially in road racing. I would err more on the side of maximum drainage than too much baffling. Make sure the heads have healthy drainage to the case, not sure I've ever looked at that in a Subaru. I have no idea without looking closer at one how much comes through that drain pipe but clearly some of it, maybe even most of it, drains down the center. Don't have one torn apart here to look at. Personally I'd angle the top layer down at a much steeper angle, maybe 45 degrees if you could make it work. Again, it's been a while, I think most Subaru engines have some kind of semiposterior windage tray. This is what I meant by a crank scraper/windage tray though: https://eliteracefab.com/collections/oil-baffles-crank-scrapers/products/killer-b-oil-baffle-windage-tray-ej-series You want them nearly touching the rods and crank to get as much oil off the outside of your rotating assembly and down into the pan as possible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docmidBratt Posted June 15, 2022 Author Share Posted June 15, 2022 Sump in and a few mods to it. Fixed starting problem, injector not spaying correctly, next wheel alignment then a drive. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docmidBratt Posted July 2, 2022 Author Share Posted July 2, 2022 Update Got wheel alignment. As its all new, took a stab at it. not bad out come on the machine. Only .5 out on camber and caster sweet. Just added a bit of toe out. Not bad for a couple of amateurs. Next and what a great day. Finally got it to the track. Big smile on my face , and off we went. All the positive feed back, people loved it, loved the concept. And old girl brought back to life. Car looks sweet at the track. So much room in the cabin. So easy to use. just the thought we put into setting things up made things so easy to operate. So first run (other than up the cowshed track the other day) Car brakes straight, turn in, even for a mid engine car was surprisingly pretty good. Slight ride height needed on front. just a small rub on outer guard. Bu,. and yes but We had a problem. The car for some reason would not run very well over 3000-4000 rpm. It would miss fire, cut out with too much throttle ? So I played with the fuel pressure a bit. Good note, the oil pressure stayed over 90 psi through corners. Plus But as a new build I spent my time looking at oil pressure and then water temp. Temp didn't get over 59 degrease. But because it wasn't revving to high ? And then I looked at the boost problem. Seamed to be spiking up and down under boost ? Under very little throttle it would run up to say 5000 rpm but then would cut out, After that I would get no throttle response until I changed down a gear? Don't even think its getting to the 2nd turbo? What's your thoughts Boost cut? Anyway, that's what you get from a new build. Even the new Rx8 beside me had problems. K swapped turbo, running up to 600 hp on fuel boost only running 400hp over heating. But that's another story . Still loved driving it. its so cool 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted July 2, 2022 Share Posted July 2, 2022 (edited) Well done mate, it looks awesome, got a bit of a ‘70’s vibe to it with that colour scheme Subyclub.com has a whole subforum about the twin turbo setup: http://www.subyclub.com/forum/7-twin-turbo/ There’s a lot of good info on there. KONG is a guru on these beasts if you want to retain the twins. There are a number of threads about converting to single turbo too. Cheers Bennie Edited July 3, 2022 by el_freddo Added link Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docmidBratt Posted July 3, 2022 Author Share Posted July 3, 2022 Thanks man Hope the above post made sense. Half a bottle of bourbon down Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted July 3, 2022 Share Posted July 3, 2022 6 hours ago, docmidBratt said: Thanks man Hope the above post made sense. Half a bottle of bourbon down All good, just the change to the next line half way through a sentence took a bit to get used to… Cheers Bennie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pontoontodd Posted July 6, 2022 Share Posted July 6, 2022 Car looks great! Better underheating than overheating. I would guess some kind of fuel delivery issue but I don't know much about those engines. To test the whole system it's best to disconnect the supply line as close to the engine as possible and run the fuel pump. Good rule of thumb is 1oz/second per 200hp. Don't know offhand how that converts to non barbaric units, we usually just fill a 12oz bottle/can and make sure it can do it under 12 seconds (for a 200hp engine). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docmidBratt Posted July 7, 2022 Author Share Posted July 7, 2022 Thanks all we may have pinned the wrong pin on the 4 plug ecu. It is extremely difficult to find anything on a 1996 BG5 T5 ecu pinout. heaps of 1994-1998 pinout and single turbo pinouts but trying to figure out the right pinout of the ecu to think it a manual, no go so far so far the only 4 plug ecu pinout we can find is connector B58 pin 10, Doesn't match our ecu and the only other stuff is from a 3 plug ecu connector b135 pin 25. no go again O well keep looking Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docmidBratt Posted July 18, 2022 Author Share Posted July 18, 2022 All good here fuel flow rate 15oz in 7 seconds The aeromotive fuel system I run is rated for 450hp na, so all good there. Now a surprise to me I managed to find a BG5 1997 4 plug pinout. It seems to match what I have. Check with other sensors on engine. Now hopefully it will rev over 4000. Cheers all doc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Please sign in to comment
You will be able to leave a comment after signing in
Sign In Now