nicksubaru Posted March 29, 2017 Share Posted March 29, 2017 In my loyale my front camber is like this \/ I did a square tube lift in the front at 15* i was wondering if anyone has maded a 2" strut tower lift with adjustable camber settings and if so how? The ea82 bodys have always had camber issues anyways if ask me. It would be nice if it were possible to fix this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott in Bellingham Posted March 29, 2017 Share Posted March 29, 2017 Roll the car back and forth and press down ion the hood, get it to settle, also with that lift and no engine crossmember lift it will be greater then stock, I can provide you with the crossmember lowering kit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicksubaru Posted March 30, 2017 Author Share Posted March 30, 2017 I have driven this car around. It has settled as much as its going to. I would rather not do cross member lowering for the same reason why most people don't. I like the clearance. I just want to get the camber right, before i do the 6 lug conversion to 15" rims. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XHighOctanex Posted March 30, 2017 Share Posted March 30, 2017 I have driven this car around. It has settled as much as its going to. I would rather not do cross member lowering for the same reason why most people don't. I like the clearance. I just want to get the camber right, before i do the 6 lug conversion to 15" rims. imho if you're going to be running bigger tires anyways the subframe drop is much worth it. I have just the 2inch lift no lowering kit (yet) and before I swapped my d/r in I beat the crap out of the single range push button and the swap marked my 3rd set of axles in probably 2ish months or so. Also without the lowering kit the bottom balljoint is a real pits to get back in. I have to use a ratchet strap with a d hook on one end to pull the axle and the opposite control arm together to get my balljoint in, all while having someone hold pressure on a prybar to get the arm low enough and then guiding it in at the same time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferp420 Posted April 3, 2017 Share Posted April 3, 2017 I have one side at 18° one at 15° just cut new blocks till its right i think 15° is for saggie springs 18° worked with new tempo springs it might take a bit of driving to settle in but the blocks are easy to change out if they are off off a little bit i think the key to the axles lasting is adding grease to them when there new as the last 10 or so axles i got dident have any grease in them the ones i greased new are about 2 years old now and one failed a few months ago and the other is starting to make noise oddly enuff the hd axle failed in a few hundread miles go figure on there was no grease in It ether Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicksubaru Posted April 3, 2017 Author Share Posted April 3, 2017 That's kinda why i would like to have some kinda adjustable camber with the 2in space in there. I dont want to sit there and cut blocks after blocks. And as time goes by ill probably need it to change again. Just wondering if anyone else has already came up with any ideas on how to do this Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferp420 Posted April 3, 2017 Share Posted April 3, 2017 Some people use camber bolts on the inner side of the swing arm but i dont know how well it will h9ld up some slot that hole and use a reguler bolt some slot the bolt holes in the top of the struts but the strongest way will be to cut new blocks im trying to figure something out but i havent yet Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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