XHighOctanex Posted April 3, 2017 Share Posted April 3, 2017 So me and my buddy Alex, he's on here, have been talking the last few weeks and we believe we have come up with the way to solve most cv axle issued. The one I'm most proud with is the rear cv delete. Anyone who has seen a c2 corvette up close has seen that they don't have cv axles. They have little driveshafts instead. So what if we made stub axles that instead of a spline on the outside really had a plate to bolt a driveshaft to. Or a splined section that slides over the stock stub and has the plate on that so you just roll pin that in and it's secure then bolt the driveshaft to it. Any driveshaft place can make a driveshaft with double cardon joints and a slip yoke in the middle. In my head I feel like this would eliminate most if not all issues that these stock and increasingly hard to find cv axles cause after lifting one of these cars. Note the fronts we have not figured out how would work with the limited space yet so mainly focusing on the rears right now. Any input is greatly appreciated him and I are trying to find out ways to take these cars up a notch so please chime in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted April 3, 2017 Share Posted April 3, 2017 (edited) Subaru used to have axles like that back in the 70's on the early 4WD's. Sure you can build them but the next weak link is the hollow diff stubs - which you will twist right off with enough torque. You would need to use a newer model R160 with female stub axles - 95+ have this style. This will cost a LOT of money to have made. You need a u-joint yoke with a Subaru rear axle splined male stub built onto it. Then you need similar for the wheel side. Then you'll just end up breaking the little baby ring and pinion if you make the rest of it strong enough. Remember it's only a 6 1/4" ring gear and little baby pinion. A better idea is to just put a solid Dana 35 or Toyota/Nissan axle under the back. You can get any gearing you would need (cheap) to match your front. Then your only fabrication is the driveshaft (easy), and some leaf spring shackles. Plus you can have lots of brake and wheel options. GD Edited April 3, 2017 by GeneralDisorder 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted April 3, 2017 Share Posted April 3, 2017 (edited) For the cost of cutting the splines into 4 little u-joint yokes to attach u-joints to the stock diff/stubs, you could put a mini-truck solid axle under it, and be done with it. In my experience, if the angles weren't rediculous and the driver isn't a completely nuts with the throttle, the axles were not usually the weak link. The stubs where they go into the diff are, the diff itself, then the transfer gears on the back of the transmission. Not to mention the shortcomings of the suspension itself.... If you're going to go to the trouble, you can solve so many of those issues Edit: looks like GD beat me to it... Edited April 3, 2017 by Numbchux 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagonist Posted April 3, 2017 Share Posted April 3, 2017 Datsuns of the 70s used to have this idea too. Got rid of it for a reason... Most driveshaft problems with Subaru are the fronts with too much angle on the inner CVs. BTW, for the rear the floating inner CV is also able to be used as the outer CV, so you could have 2 floating CVs on the same shaft, which gives a little extra length Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Please sign in to comment
You will be able to leave a comment after signing in
Sign In Now