Strut replacement questions

[211]

2000 OBW with 206k, original struts all around
Car doesn't seem to handle any different or worse but there is an audible 'clunk' or knock when I go over any uneven surface in the road, beit a pothole or crack in the asphalt.
I'm told there's not really a method for testing if the struts are blown (like the bounce test on some older cars). I'm just assuming that at 206k they're probably in need? Is this a fair diagnosis?
And the clunk I'm thinking is the upper strut mount?

Should I replace them and what's a good aftermarket strut.

[fgf]

Check the stabilizer (aka swaybar) bushings too - they can cause klunks.

Also your ball joints...

[06SubLegTx]

2000 OBW with 206k, original struts all around

Car doesn't seem to handle any different or worse but there is an audible 'clunk' or knock when I go over any uneven surface in the road, beit a pothole or crack in the asphalt.

I'm told there's not really a method for testing if the struts are blown (like the bounce test on some older cars). I'm just assuming that at 206k they're probably in need? Is this a fair diagnosis?

And the clunk I'm thinking is the upper strut mount?

 

Should I replace them and what's a good aftermarket strut.

I don't think any shock or strut is meant to go 200k..... 

[1 Lucky Texan]

I'd consider new springs too. I suppose if the miles were 90% smooth highway on a car that never saw much cargo, springs may be OK.

[Dj7291993]

More than liekly, it's the bearing plate (a.k.a. strut tops, mounting plates, top hats, ect.). But, sway bar links and other loose suspension stuff can cause it too. If you think it's the fronts, just open the hood, pop the plastic caps off the top of the strut, and watch/feel them while you bounce the front of the car up and down. You can theoretically do that with the backs too, but it takes a bit more to get to them.

 

As stated, wouldn't be a bad idea to do the springs too. Especially if it seems like it's sagging in the rear. 'Course, you may end up opening a bucket of worms if you decide to use the "do it while you're in there" method.

[idosubaru]

I'd replace the struts, springs, and leave the strut mounts unless they've failed.  The only strut mounts I see routinely failing are aftermarket and rusty ones which you probably don't have to deal with.

Maybe have 4 strut mounts on hand and just return them if you don't need them.

 

OEM or KYB on the struts.  

[Dj7291993]

The only strut mounts I see routinely failing are aftermarket and rusty ones which you probably don't have to deal with. 

 

Really?  I see them all the time.  We don't do them unless we have reason to condemn them, but they fail quite often around here.  Of course, our roads suck, and the cars last a long time here, so the results may vary by region.

[ThosL]

I checked around with a local junkyard, you can get full strut/spring assemblies for around $100 a pair, installation is a lot easier than just the strut.

[Gloyale]

I checked around with a local junkyard, you can get full strut/spring assemblies for around $100 a pair, installation is a lot easier than just the strut.

 

Yeah, but then you get unknown junkyard struts.  Even if they only had 100k they would likely be worn if not shot.

 

Just buy a set (2 struts front, 2 shocks rear)  Will cost about 300~400 dollars for parts and rent or buy a spring compressor.

 

By far the best option.  Not worth the effort to install used unless that was an absolute emergency/necessary.  (like a failed spring or seized strut rod)

[1 Lucky Texan]

front struts for my WRX a few weeks ago - $67 each. group N mounts were more than 'stock' but, maybe $220 total? Outback stuff might not be much different? struts from Amazon, mounts from ebay - rented strut spring compressor from VatoZone - $Zero

 

I'm slow at car work - still, only took about half a Saturday.

 

and aftermarket KYB for soobs are 15% stiffer than NEW OEM - so, if you avoid jy struts, car will feel MUCH more 'planted'.

Edited June 30, 2017 by 1 Lucky Texan

[brus brother]

+1 top mounts do fail

Just replaced rear one on my 2008 OB with 100K miles. Started off as a rubbery squeak and progressed to a rattle. Now silence is golden.

Edited June 30, 2017 by brus brother

[moosens]

Aftermarket top mounts are junk.

 

Should you actually need one or more do not waste your money on anything but dealer or KYB.

 

I wish I had kept my originals. They were uncracked and working fine. These Chinese crap ones on my car were toast in no time at all. They look horrendous. Less than a year and they cracked. Another item on my list more earlier that expected all due to garbage I thought "could work". Bad move.

[moosens]

Aftermarket top mounts are junk.

 

Should you actually need one or more do not waste your money on anything but dealer or KYB.

 

I wish I had kept my originals. They were uncracked and working fine. These Chinese crap ones on my car were toast in no time at all. They look horrendous. Less than a year and they cracked. Another item on my list more earlier that expected all due to garbage I thought "could work". Bad move.

[GeneralDisorder]

STi has good group N mounts:

 

https://www.rallysportdirect.com/part/top-hats/sti-b0310fe000-g-sti-group-n-front-upper-strut-mounts?gclid=Cj0KEQjw7dfKBRCdkKrvmfKtyeoBEiQAch0egYA1sV9ivQXuB-4nyAtay2pZinhbe6ISrzoBwQf1E0MaApzC8P8HAQ

 

GD

[brus brother]

Aftermarket top mounts are junk.

 

Should you actually need one or more do not waste your money on anything but dealer or KYB.

 

I wish I had kept my originals. They were uncracked and working fine. These Chinese crap ones on my car were toast in no time at all. They look horrendous. Less than a year and they cracked. Another item on my list more earlier that expected all due to garbage I thought "could work". Bad move.

use KYB on mine

[idosubaru]

I won't think about aftermarket top mounts. They can deflect enormously and I've seen them fail in 10 miles.

 

Yes clearly top mounts fail, but I've seen way more 200,000 mile top mounts not fail than have failed. I've never replaced them in my own vehicles with many miles. 280k on my OBW and it's nothing special or surprising. If you're with a shop you're going to see more cars with issues than average by default. So if someone was trying to save a buck, which is going to happen because of their price, they could only replace as necessary. One doesn't have to blindly replace all 4 every single time. Unlike springs and struts, they are readily visibly inspected.

 

You want to have them on hand and then return if not needed since you can't check them without disassembling.

Edited July 2, 2017 by idosubaru

[1 Lucky Texan]

I did mine because one side had a crack about 40% of the way around the rubber, HOWEVER, both of them had very rough/crunchy feeling bearings.

 

under 70K miles on my car (but almost all surface streets)

 

nothing wrong with leaving them in if the bearings feel OK - but check them - easy enough to pull and swap during the procedure.

[idosubaru]

i'll update my database to more likely to replace and scrutinize then.  I don't think i've ever heard of anyone doing this so I'm by no means suggesting it as a good idea, but the only bad bearings i came across i repacked with grease using a needle fitting. not worth the risk and small cost given the job anyway though.

 

I don't think it's road conditions, ours are terrible. 

[1 Lucky Texan]

the 'top' side of both my old stockers and the new Group-N had no seal so, getting grease into them would have been easy - maybe I should have popped the cap and greased them every coupla years?

 

Anyway, I certainly feel they should have lasted longer.

[ThosL]

I don't have much in the way of tools, no power tools or breaker bar, etc., but I appreciate the encouragement on do it yourself.

 

I'll try to get to the junk vehicle place, $100 for a set of springs/struts if they are in good shape seems cheap, installation around $200 for the pair.  I'm hearing clatter of loose parts in the front right unit.  

[idosubaru]

$100 for a set of springs/struts... installation around $200 for the pair.

 

I'd install a new one on the front right before paying more for both fronts used.  

 

Total It would only be $450 for new ones, verses $300 for used.

 

I mean, maybe you'll get lucky and score new ones, but that's a long shot unless you've got gobs of subaru's to choose from. 

[heartless]

do yourself a favor and get new ones.. seriously. used shocks/struts are a gamble. they may "look" ok, but be utter junk.

 

When I swapped my 95 Legacy over to Forester struts, the used ones I grabbed out of the 98 Foz we had turned out to be completely shot - both struts and springs...

 

Bought new KYB struts, new KYB tophats & associated hardware, and new OEM Forester springs - the whole works cost me around $400-450..

got everything assembled before hand, then it was a simple pull the old out, stuff the new in.

 

If you don't have the tools to compress the springs, check with a local independent shop - one near us will install the springs on the strut and put the tophats on for like $25-30 - for all 4. Took all of 15 minutes for them to do it.

[ThosL]

Junkyards are clearing out over half their yards and renting them out in this pricey part of CT; so they did not have them when I stopped in this week.  So assuming the spring is still good maybe the mechanic will just to the strut for me; I'm hearing rattling metal when I go over bumps on the passenger side.

[1 Lucky Texan]

Junkyards are clearing out over half their yards and renting them out in this pricey part of CT; so they did not have them when I stopped in this week.  So assuming the spring is still good maybe the mechanic will just to the strut for me; I'm hearing rattling metal when I go over bumps on the passenger side.

have you checked the sway bar endlink on that side? the rear bushing on the lower control arm? could be 1 or 2 other items that might do that.

[ThosL]

I had the suspension fixed this week; turned out the spring also broke.  I got a strut, spring, etc. for $50 for passenger side, installed, etc. for $80 plus tax.