06SubLegTx Posted April 15, 2017 Author Share Posted April 15, 2017 I wish,... that's what I was asking you about. I had to have 2nd gear/rebuild fixed in my WRX's trans - AWD Tuning in Flower Mound did it. But it's quite far from where I live. I think they were VERY fair with the price, just kinda slow getting it done. Everything else I've done myself so far but, I really can't get deep into it and my age, lack of experience and lack of a 'helper', makes it more difficult to do 'heavy' wrenching. I recently had an air bag recall done (cost me $0 and I got a loaner) on the Outback at the new Sam Pack dealership in Grapevine - but their labor rate is $135/hr !!! It's an option but, pricey and still a longer drive than ideal. Dunno what I'm gonna do when I need a clutch. I might try MP Auto in Pantego - they've helped my daughter a lot and have good reviews - but I dunno how Subaru-experienced they are. I guess a clutch change shouldn't be tricky for them. If I needed an auto machine shop, guess I'd call Arlington Automotive Machine first and have a conversation, I just haven't needed that, yet. I know a Machine Shop where blocks, heads etc are done. I don't know of mechanics shops if that is what you mean Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06SubLegTx Posted April 15, 2017 Author Share Posted April 15, 2017 (edited) Not a bad idea to replace the coolant cross over pipe o-rings. Careful with the 6mm bolts they like to snap off if you have a corroded block. Pretty much any of the 6mm stuff like the water pump bolts like to strip out if someone has over torqued them in the past. One of my tech's insists on using an inch pounds torque wrench on the 6's, 8's, and 10's holding the idlers, etc. I don't personally, but it's up to how comfortable you are. We end up doing thread repair a LOT. Have had to do all the water pump bolts and all the coolant cross pipe bolts on a block more than once. Broken tensioner bolt is sure sign of ham fisted tool operator. Check all bolts for stretch, and all threads for damage. Probably best to heli-coil ALL the holes if any of them are suspect or stripped. It's cheap insurance really. GD Thanks, I will definitely keep that in mind. One of the ground straps on the lower part of the head on the driver side broke when I tried to undo it, I could see there the bolt had been previously fatigued Edited April 15, 2017 by 06SubLegTx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted April 15, 2017 Share Posted April 15, 2017 (edited) I know a Machine Shop where blocks, heads etc are done. I don't know of mechanics shops if that is what you meanyeah, go ahead and post the machine shop and if you had a good experience with them. Aside from me, maybe needing them someday, others may read this thread in the future looking for help here in DFW. Edited April 15, 2017 by 1 Lucky Texan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06SubLegTx Posted April 15, 2017 Author Share Posted April 15, 2017 yeah, go ahead and post the machine shop and if you had a good experience with them. Aside from me, maybe needing them someday, others may read this thread in the future looking for help here in DFW. The place is called: Automotive Machine & Supply, Inc. 212 Carroll Street Ft Worth, TX 76107 (817) 335-9331 or (800) 210-9331 https://www.automotivemachine.com/ They will be relocating in late May 2017 to and they are suppose to be able to keep the same phone number. 5215 Conveyor Drive Cleburne, TX 76031 Eric, and the staff are very friendly. They won't EVER try to rip you off or mislead you ever, Eric tells it like it is. They really care about the work they do. I had headwork done on my 95 Volvo 850 (Canadian Version 2 valve cylinder head) and they did a great job. The areas of there expertise is mainly in import stuff: Subaru, Volvo, BMW, Saab, Porsche, Honda, Toyota, VW Bugs, Volkswagen, Harley Davidson and other motorcycle engines. They also do custom work, as you can see on the website I hope this helps, when they move I will update, they are going to inspect my heads in a few days 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted April 15, 2017 Share Posted April 15, 2017 You typically don't need a machine shop for the heads. You buy new valves, lap them in, and reset the lash. Surfacing is done with a nice thick piece of glass, 120 grit cloth backed wet/dry paper and WD40. Can easily be done with it in a few hours at home. But it does take a little effort to gather the tools and setup for it. Less expensive in the end though. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06SubLegTx Posted April 16, 2017 Author Share Posted April 16, 2017 You typically don't need a machine shop for the heads. You buy new valves, lap them in, and reset the lash. Surfacing is done with a nice thick piece of glass, 120 grit cloth backed wet/dry paper and WD40. Can easily be done with it in a few hours at home. But it does take a little effort to gather the tools and setup for it. Less expensive in the end though. GD GD, Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06SubLegTx Posted April 17, 2017 Author Share Posted April 17, 2017 (edited) UPDATE: Well, I finally got the engine out. As I was unbolting the heads, I noticed that the Passenger Side (original head) was a LOT LOT harder to break free than the driver side (one with new/rebuilt head). It seem almost twice as hard to me. I removed both heads, the Passenger Side is all apart. The cam/journal look very good where the cam lays, it has really good. The Driver Side is 98% apart except for one 3mm (hexagon) bolt near the cam gear that looks like might is meant to also be a guide, because of the raise collar around it, and acts like it wants to strip out. (to the machine shop) All of the Intake Valves are bent. I could see where the Valve came in contact with the piston because of the impression it put on the carbon on top of the piston, and of course a bent valve. I still want to get the carbon off to inspect the piston. It looks like none of the Exhaust Valve guides have dropped, and no buildup of carbon on the exhaust valves below. I did have one exhaust manifold bolt come out (did not strip) come out of the head. The head gasket they used on the replacement head was a Felpro PermaTorque MLS # 26415pt gasket. On the passenger side (the original head on the car) I noticed a little corrosion and color (on the like the head gasket was going to develope a leak (glad I found that) even under my situation. The Oil Pump is a 10mm one, but I may upgrade to a 11mm. I will of course put in all new Subaru (Japan) parts in the Timing Belt area, along with new seals. The crank seal was not leaking, and the cover on the back was not either, but everyone says that cover should get changed/resealed. Edited April 17, 2017 by 06SubLegTx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted April 17, 2017 Share Posted April 17, 2017 The rear separator plate covers that leak are the plastic ones from the 90's. Not the aluminum and steel ones. Since you should be doing a new ring set if you are in that far, the cover will be removed and resealed anyway. GD 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wirelessenabled Posted April 17, 2017 Share Posted April 17, 2017 The rear separator plate covers that leak are the plastic ones from the 90's. Not the aluminum and steel ones. Since you should be doing a new ring set if you are in that far, the cover will be removed and resealed anyway. GD GD, Thanks for all your good information on this forum! I and probably many others appreciate it! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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