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So my mom-in-law has a 1997 subaru legacy I am the family "mechanic" (normally basic stuff)

Anyway the harmonic balancer was wobbling and threw the power steering belt so I tried to take off both belts and line the pulley back on the pin when it wouldn't lock in place I removed it. There was as chunk of metal broke of where the woodruff key would be. So I took off the timing belt to remove the crankshaft sprocket and I can't get it to budge by hand I believe half of the key snapped off in side the sprocket any ideas on how to remove the sprocket? Without causing more damage I was told maybe drill it out but be super careful is that my only option? Thank you so much in advance!

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The two holes in the sprocket are cast the correct size to be tapped for 8mm x 1.25. Then you use a steering wheel puller. Grind off as much of the mangled key as you can (die grinder, etc) and get a new balancer, key, and sprocket from the dealer.

 

This is caused by incorrect balancer bolt torque. Make sure it's torqued to 137 Ft/lbs.

 

GD

Edited by GeneralDisorder
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Rolo1793,

 

Try General Disorder's approach to pull the sprocket, but if that doesn't work, I have another fix.

 

I've wrenched on cars for years, and when it came time for a new timing belt on my 1990 300ZX at year 19 and 56 000 kms, I took a lesson from several members of a forum that covered that car.

 

I ordered a new crank sprocket from Nissan, and then simply cut the old sprocket off the crankshaft. I started with a 4 1/2 inch cut off wheel on an angle grinder and cut down and as close to the engine block as I could before its size made me stop (before cutting into the block). I then changed to a 3 inch cut off wheel on an air grinder until the same problem arose. Finally I used a cut off disc on a Dremel tool.

 

I never cut through the entire sprocket  between two teeth until I hit the crank shaft itself. Stop short of that. Then using a chisel in the cut groove, one or two whacks with a ball peen hammer split the sprocket in two and it fell from the crankshaft, with no damage to the crankshaft at all. It worked like a charm. Good Luck!

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Rolo1793,

 

Use GeneralDisorder's method, but if it doesn't work there is another option that works well.

 

Use a 4 1/2 inch cutoff wheel on an angle grinder, then a 3 inch one in an air grinder, and finally a cutoff wheel in a Dremmel tool to cut a groove between two of the teeth of the sprocket. Cut down to, but not all the way to the crank shaft. Then put a large chisel into the groove you've cut, and a couple of whacks with a ball peen hammer will split the sprocket in two.

 

I used this method on my 1990 300ZX when changing the timing belt and crank and cam seals, etc., years ago. It works like a charm. As I recall, a new sprocket was like $23 at the time for that car. Good Luck!

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Yeah the Nissan sprockets DO NOT come off. Last one I did on a Pathfinder we had to get it darn near glowing red hot to break it's hold on the crank. We got it off, basically undamaged, but it had been subjected to so much heat I elected to not use it anyway.

 

The Subaru sprocket is nothing like your Nissan experience. The steering wheel puller will take it right off.

 

GD

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I wouldn't even worry about it if it was my car or some folks I do work for. Subarus don't need the key. Just bolt the balancer back on really tight and it'll never budge, done it countless times. 3 foot pipe crank it and done every time.

 

The bigger question is why was it wobbling, they don't just randomly do that?

 

If the balancer was wobbling due to separation it needs replaced or repaired.

 

Repair usually is just a couple tack welds to hold it in place easy.

 

New are pricey and they don't fail often so many people just toss a used one on there as they're a dime a dozen.

 

If it was wobbling due to a loose bolt then someone didn't properly tighten it - who and why?

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Thank you all for the advice! I tried the steering wheel puller Idea and it was a no go I wrenched on it until I stripped the threads off the bolts that came in the puller kit. So I took a closer look at where the key would go and it almost looks welded on I will post pictures tomorrow

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