2002 Outback 5 sp with non-heated seats

[3Pin]

I just finished putting an engine in a 2002 subaru outback wagon.  I have a extra pair of heated seats and the switches the same color and wonder if anyone knows if there is wiring for the heated seats already under the seat.

[3Pin]

I can't see any wires under the seat other than electric seat power.  Does anyone know if the factory ships them with the wiring?

[1 Lucky Texan]

maybe under the console? that's where the switches are on my H6 03

[3Pin]

good call.  That will be easy to look for as well.

[Bushwick]

I added a heated element to my 95' Legacy out of I think a 98' Outback. In that case, there were only 2 wires FEEDING the switch (ground and 12v+). Wires after the switch went directly to the seat. I only did passenger seat though. Hi/Low heat function works (it's controlled in the switch), and I just wired it to the cig lighter's 12v+as I never use that, and it's rating was sufficient for the one seat. Temp control on/off (if like the 98') should be controlled via the actual seat's heater element. It needs to be AT a certain temp BEFORE it'll kick on, meaning the heat generated while sitting on it IIRC. Mine won't kick on w/o me on it. They have an auto-off to prevent overheating. A way around the auto-off is leave windows cracked so fresh air enters (leave dash heater on or low) and the seat should remain on indefinitely as it won't hit the high-side temp off.

 

Need to verify BOTH seats actually heat up. A common failure spot is on the lower seat area, DIRECTLY between the thighs/knees (closer to knees). As the seats pull apart over the years, the wire in the heating element can pull apart, creating a break. This will prevent the seat from heating. I had this issue on mine. In my case, I carefully exposed the wire break (it'll stain the white mesh brown if it arced a few times and is visible), and soldered in a new section, making it longer than the original break. The factory wire is like 24 gauge (reason why it gets warm when intentionally shorted to create heat) and I soldered in something like 18 or 20 gauge, then sandwiched that on both sides with black Gorrila tape which is a heavier duty and thicker tape than standard duct tape, to prevent the splice from ever pulling apart.

 

Anyhow, 3+ years later and it's yet to fail. It's also NOT detectable from the outside.

[Bushwick]

Also, if my post wasn't clear, I had to harvest the wire harness from donor vehicle. I took everything feeding the seat(s), took the seat heat switch assembly, and think I cut or disconnected as far ahead the switch as possible. My 95' did not have any of the needed wiring.