MR_Loyale Posted April 23, 2017 Share Posted April 23, 2017 (edited) I made a grocery run to Central Market for some good grub. On the way back while driving south on Highway 3 this morning gliding along in my Loyale with some nice tunes and suddenly I hear a clunk and I lose power. Luckily I was near an off ramp and could get off the highway. All the lights on the dash lit up and I slowly rolled to a halt on the side of the ramp. I got out checked the engine, nothing blown up. Cranked it a few times and it wouldn't start again. I thought maybe it was the fuel pump, so I got out and picked up a rock to whack it, but as I was laying down to reach under the back of the car, I figured I should see if the pump was charging with the distinctive growl. Got in and turned the key and it growled so the fuel pump didn't need smacking. After two minutes, I thought to check under the distributor cap and sure enough the little screw is sitting there. I am relieved I know what is wrong (especially considering I forgot my phone at home) but really annoyed that this screw fell out again. Luckily I have a phillips screw driver and got going again. I am home now and found some blue locktite but I am not even sure that will be a permanent fix. I am thinking of riveting the thing on so I never have to worry about it again or perhaps locktite and rivet. Other than requiring drilling if I ever need to change the rotor, does anyone see any big problems with this? This screw is the one thing I hate about the Loyales. Edited April 23, 2017 by MR_Loyale 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbosubarubrat Posted April 23, 2017 Share Posted April 23, 2017 Loctite will keep it on. You could replace the screw with a bolt to get some more torque on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Len Dawg Posted April 23, 2017 Share Posted April 23, 2017 Next time i visit that gulldangdammedstupid screw I'm switch it to a Allen Head!! With locktite!! Mine fell out getting up to speed on the freeway.. changed the belts and eVeRyydammed thing while I was there... couldn't get it to fire back up.. stupid thing is I took the cap off 3 times and looked at the rotor but NEVER TURNED IT TO MAKE SURE IT WASN'T SPINNING!! NOOAH!HA HA HA i waited till the 2 coffee and 5th cigarette to do that !Ha ha ha! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted April 24, 2017 Share Posted April 24, 2017 i've replaced them once or twice on a daily driver just for easier access with a socket. try to tigthen it to proper torque and see if the threads will hold it and to verify they aren't stripped. if the threads and screw are good and it's tightened properly they don't fall out. i'd want to find out which of those is the issue. chase the threads with tap and die and tighten it with locktite will help but still don't know why it fell out. i'd do a thread repair before rivet- rivet would make for one sucky road side repair IMO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdweninger Posted April 25, 2017 Share Posted April 25, 2017 What year did the Loyale's get the rotor screw? My '85 wagons don't have it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted April 25, 2017 Share Posted April 25, 2017 I'm thinking it's older ones. I think I remember my 76 and 78 wagons having a screw. GLs and Loyales that I have are D shaft push on. I never had a screw fall out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdweninger Posted April 25, 2017 Share Posted April 25, 2017 but his username is Mr Loyale. I just assumed his Loyale had the set screw. Although, I only have '85 Loyales and have never seen one. I also have the D-style. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superpoo93 Posted April 27, 2017 Share Posted April 27, 2017 Keep a small screw driver with you at all times. Always lock-tite. Dumb screw! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rust Posted April 27, 2017 Share Posted April 27, 2017 common problem, I ended up switching to a different dizzy. If you don't have another dizzy , you could try to wire-tie the screw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MR_Loyale Posted May 22, 2017 Author Share Posted May 22, 2017 I ended up riveting it on. No problem so far. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted May 24, 2017 Share Posted May 24, 2017 Fuel Injected Ea82 engines w/ optical distributor have the screw. Carbed models are push on/notched 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l75eya Posted May 27, 2017 Share Posted May 27, 2017 I've never had that happen to my cars. And I run the piss out of them. 6k-7k shifts, 95mph on the highway, I mean that little guy spins pretty good in my daily and it's never come out. I wonder why other people have issues with theirs backing out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted May 27, 2017 Share Posted May 27, 2017 I've never had that happen to my cars. And I run the piss out of them. 6k-7k shifts, 95mph on the highway, I mean that little guy spins pretty good in my daily and it's never come out. I wonder why other people have issues with theirs backing out. Carbed. See my above post. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted May 27, 2017 Share Posted May 27, 2017 (edited) What are XTs, they have a screw or bolt. Ive never had issues. I recall fixing one or two 15 or 20 years ago. Been driving XTs for 25 years as daily drivers. If its coming loose then probably need to fix it right? Clean the threads, helicoil, rivnuts, use a bolt. All would be quick and easy. Just fix it and never think about it again. I'd move to a bolt and do a helicoil or maybe a rivnut if applicable. Edited May 27, 2017 by grossgary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l75eya Posted May 28, 2017 Share Posted May 28, 2017 Carbed. See my above post. My cars are SPFI, optical pickup distributor with a set screw rotor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted May 28, 2017 Share Posted May 28, 2017 (edited) And I run the piss out of them. 6k-7k shifts, 95mph on the highway, This is why I will never drive in NewJersey or anywhere east rockies. True though, you would need to be revved out to 6k rpms to hit 95 with an EA82 engine. Edited May 28, 2017 by Gloyale Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Len Dawg Posted May 28, 2017 Share Posted May 28, 2017 (edited) 5spd.. 75mph @3500 RPM downhill.. 60mph @3000 uphill 65mph @3200 flat Last time I remember 87mph @4000 flat.. maxed out on the hwy! Will not go any faster!! Ha ha ha! Here's my test results from about 8 yrs ago...and STILL the only recorded year make and model... flat out accelerator pedal to the floor while shifting speed improved by 3mph ha ha ha! I don't beat it up like I used to.. too good of a car.. Follow Link below... http://www.dragtimes.com/Subaru-Loyale-Timeslip-16326.html Edited May 28, 2017 by Len Dawg 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DagdaS Posted May 28, 2017 Share Posted May 28, 2017 75mph @3500 RPM downhill.. 60mph @3000 uphill 65mph @3200 flat Last time I remember 87mph @4000 flat.. Will not go any faster!! Here's my test results and STILL the only recorded year make and model ha ha ha! Link below http://www.dragtimes.com/Subaru-Loyale-Timeslip-16326.html I upvoted ya there, Len Dawg! hehe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Len Dawg Posted May 28, 2017 Share Posted May 28, 2017 (edited) I upvoted ya there, Len Dawg! hehe Thanks man.. I don't know what came over me! The topic is about rotor screws falling out which mine did once before, but I seen speed and RPM and I had a flash back! Felt I had to share! Ha ha ha! Still the only recorded subaru loyale at drag times. I almost want to start up a poor man's version. But 65mph in a 1/4 mile is respectable I think for a 4banger that's not made for top high speed! Edited May 28, 2017 by Len Dawg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l75eya Posted May 29, 2017 Share Posted May 29, 2017 (edited) This is why I will never drive in NewJersey or anywhere east rockies. True though, you would need to be revved out to 6k rpms to hit 95 with an EA82 engine. I must respectfully claim that information Incorrect. 95 is not even crossing 5,000 rpms yet. You're only just approaching 5,000 rpms at 100! And it has nothing to do with the state I was in or anything to do with geographical location at all? It's just the way I drive. 4,000 rpm is 90 mph. This is with a 93 fwd 5 speed transmission on 175-70-13 (stock) tires. I just put 600+ miles on this car over the past three days. On the latest leg (still have another 220 miles to do tomorrow) I was on my way back from Hershey, PA to Manhattan. Made that trip in 2 hours doing 95 (4,200-ish rpm) most of the way. I don't understand everybody talking about how they have trouble hitting 90 or 100 mph in their 5 speed cars. The 3 speed, yes, I absolutely understand because 100 mph in a 3at is 6,300 rpm. You're running out of gear and head-flow at that point and anything over 100 in a 3at is pretty much noisy, time consuming, and dangerous for your engine. Maybe it's your altitude out there? But that would only apply to the carbed vehicles... I have no real trouble hitting 100 mph in my car, and I've actually peaked it at 110 a few times. It can maintain 100 ok but at that point it would be pushing 5k. 4,500 rpm is about the most I'm comfortable with my motor turning for any extended period of time. I've run an ea82 at 5k for 3 hours straight before, and it took it without complaint, but I wouldn't want to do it on the reg, and not with the car I rely on every day. And it is for these experiences mentioned above that I'm intrigued on other people's rotor screw backing out. Because I know, compared to most others, I really run my car pretty hard. And I've never had that issue before. Perhaps the threads have been stretched due to an overtorqued set-screw previously and now you it won't torque down properly. Riveting is sure to solve the problem though!!! Tomorrow I will snap pictures at various speeds on my way back to Pennsylvania for reference and informational purposes and create an appropriate thread for it. Sorry for the thread-jack Mr. Loyale! I hope Uno and the GL are both doing good for you! Edited May 29, 2017 by l75eya Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted May 29, 2017 Share Posted May 29, 2017 Tomorrow I will snap pictures at various speeds on my way back to Pennsylvania for reference and informational purposes and create an appropriate thread for it. Sorry for the thread-jack Mr. Loyale! I hope Uno and the GL are both doing good for you! For god's sake please don't try to take a F&&*%ng picture while driving ridiculously stupid speeds in a 30 year old death trap. You are putting others at risk and trying to make it sound cool. 95 mph is reckless. Dumb BTW.....Elevation will also have an effect FI engines....not just carbed. Any N/A engine will suffer from decreased Oxygen at altitudes. Also, My elevation is 200 ft. The entire west is not onto of a mountain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l75eya Posted May 30, 2017 Share Posted May 30, 2017 For god's sake please don't try to take a F&&*%ng picture while driving ridiculously stupid speeds in a 30 year old death trap. True, I should have worded that differently. What I actually did was capture screenshots from video I took with a mounted camera (of which my car has 3. Including one that maps my route and tracks my speed) And it's 24 years old. And meticulously maintained. The only thing that concerns me about high speeds is anything exceeding the teeny tiny lil 13 inch tires' speed rating, which I do not do (S - 112 mph). Though I do agree that it is not a very safe care in the event of an accident... You are putting others at risk and trying to make it sound cool. 95 mph is reckless. I guess one thing you alluded to is right though, driving out here is a little different than there. You can be doing 95 and still be getting flashed at by the guy tailgating you because he was going 105. Most other cars are doing 80-85. Hell, I was stuck behind a dump-truck (dump-truck!) at 80-85mph for a little while on my way back home. Not trying to make anything sound cool, not doing anything out of the ordinary, and not stupidly holding a cell phone in my hand while beaming down the highway, so rest assured. Not trying to be a smart-rump roast, either, as I mentioned above, I'm respectfully stating that the information you shared above is incorrect, at least in the case of mine and any other cars with the same configuration as mine. I became intrigued with the lack of accurate information and have now decided to share data regarding certain speeds and their associated engine RPM, which I'll post tomorrow once I've got all the screenshots I want to use. Cheers and safe travels. /threadjack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MR_Loyale Posted May 31, 2017 Author Share Posted May 31, 2017 (edited) I have replaced the rotor several times throughout its lifetime so that may have something to do with it coming loose. I also have put new screws in there (from dealer). If you have never changed the rotor or very little, that may be why it has never come loose. Here is a pic of it with the rivet: https://postimg.org/image/opf59duqt/ Edited May 31, 2017 by MR_Loyale Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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