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Stuck roll pin and punch tool


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Well first off I was dumb and used the wrong tools and now it but me in the butt but now I really gone and goofed up. I have a broken tool stuck in the roll pin spot with the roll pin still in there and now I have a punch stuck in there. I bought the right Subaru roll pin remover tool and that didn't work so I tried a different one that is now stuck in one end. I feel like I'm really screwed on this. Anyone know what I should do besides bang my head on a wall??

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Edited by Cedro289
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Well for the one with the handle still on it, you can put a wrench of it and gently turn it out.

 

The other side you might be able to get vice grips on it and try and work it back and forth until it comes out.

Edited by golucky66
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Well for the one with the handle still on it, you can put a wrench of it and gently turn it out.

The other side you might be able to get vice grips on it and try and work it back and forth until it comes out.

I tried that and I can feel the metal slowly getting easier to twist and the part that's in won't budge. Have it soaking in pb blaster right now after an hour of pounding on the other side. I think the roll pin is slightly wedged out *sigh*

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*** why are you working on it - was this axle and original pin properly installed or are you addressing an axle that didn't originally have a pin (meaning it could be odd 180 degrees)?

 

If it's an automatic pull the stubby shaft out and do it on the bench. They're simply held in with a circlip and pop in and out by hand (a forceful/appropriately applied hand).

 

Manuals don't come out like that so that's not an option. Another of the endless reasons manuals suck. Sorry couldn't resist the ridiculousness.

 

I have had some that were initially immovable and didn't budge even a tiny amount. They seemed done. Once I had no options and redoubled efforts with better access and tools and put some stank on twisting and extracting they eventually came out after dozens of applied forces and attempts. don't give up too quick though this does look rough.

 

So you have one side out now?

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*** why are you working on it - was this axle and original pin properly installed or are you addressing an axle that didn't originally have a pin (meaning it could be odd 180 degrees)?

If it's an automatic pull the stubby shaft out and do it on the bench. They're simply held in with a circlip and pop in and out by hand (a forceful/appropriately applied hand).

Manuals don't come out like that so that's not an option. Another of the endless reasons manuals suck. Sorry couldn't resist the ridiculousness.

I have had some that were initially immovable and didn't budge even a tiny amount. They seemed done. Once I had no options and redoubled efforts with better access and tools and put some stank on twisting and extracting they eventually came out after dozens of applied forces and attempts. don't give up too quick though this does look rough.

So you have one side out now?

It's a duel range four speed out of a 1983 gl hatchback I've had laying around for a while and wanted to get this cv off. Pin was properly installed before I messed up. The tools broken and stuck inside were from before I knew what I was doing and didn't have the tools I do now. I thought hey f it use the cheap napa punch to get this out and that bit me in the butt. Now I have he proper pin tool and have done a few trans swaps and wanted to come back to this after a couple years of letting it sit and wrenching and learning the proper way things are done. Just wanted to see what people on here thought and get friendly advice from someone.

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Get a pair of vice grips on as tight as possible then use a hammer on the vice grips. I've done it many a times it works. If the grips slip off just make em tighter.

and if you have room you can double up on the vise grips with one butted up right next to the first one.

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You could also possibly grind of the excess metal, grab a large nail, or something along those lines and use a palm nailer on it to force it out.... just thinking what id do for a nuclear option, havent had to do this myself but it could work. Also on the axels, there should be a slight bevel on one side, but not the other, ive found that if you press them out from the flush sude, and put them in from the beveled side it makes life easier

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it looks from the pic that the punch you used was a little too small and ended up going inside the pin and now both are stuck? If this is correct, you have soaked it so now put a socket on that punch and work it out with a ratchet, one direction then the other, back and forth. maybe try a vice grip on the pin side to help hold it while you work the punch out with you socket/ratchet. let the vice grip get wedged to keep the pin from turning.

I assume that you have acquired the correct punch now. If you get the stuck punch out then you can easily drive the pin out with your new (correct) punch.

 

If the problem is that you tried to punch the pin out in the wrong direction (One hole on the axle is beveled and the pin should be driven into that hole and driven out of the opposite side) then try putting a drift on the pin and drive it back / work it out. Patience.

 

If you drove it out the wrong way and the pin breaks off, just put the correct punch on the broken pin and drive it out the right direction. if you have identified the direction as you problem and can't get it out, you might try to shear the pin off and do this.

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Cut everything off flush. Grind the stuck bits with a 1/8" carbide burr till you can slide the axle off. Should take about 10 minutes. 

 

At this point it's all F******d so just grind it out and be done with it. They make punches in factorys every day and sell you new ones at the store..... your time is priceless. 

 

GD

Edited by GeneralDisorder
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Guest Soob4ME

You might end up screwing up your front diff if you keep pounding. Those roller bearings aren't designed for that at all.

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  • 2 weeks later...

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