2010 Outback Crank but No Start

[potter2010]

Hello,

I'm already working on an odd noise coming from the driver's wheel well but new surprise! The car is a 2010 Outback that we bought used a little over a year ago. 132,000/212,000km on it. Timing belt replaced at 100,000km (potentially miles though as the car is American). The valve cover gasket, spark plug tube seals, and spark plugs were replaced this past fall/winter. I did the passengar side but ended up having to take it to the mechanic for the drivers side. I'm assuming they did a decent job. I didn't replace the spark plug wires as I had planned on since the coil is on the wire making them crazy expensive. No starting/running issues since or before. I do have a trickle charger on the battery for the winter (1.5 amp) but it hasn't been plugged in for several weeks. The battery itself is pretty powerful, 1000 CA if I remember correctly.

This has happened twice in the last week. The car starts fine from cold, drive it a short distance of maybe 5-10 minutes, go a short errand and car cranks but no start. The first time it happened I thought weird but it started on the second go a couple minutes later. No CEL but I didn't check with my code reader. Today it left my wife and son stranded at the daycare. They ended up catching a ride as it wouldn't start at all. I'll be walking/biking to pick it up in a little bit.

I have been Googling and searching this forum. There seems to be a variety of potential causes ('*' ones seem most probably):

• Battery
• Coil/Spark Plug Wires
• Loose Battery Wires/Corroded Terminals
• Spark Plugs
• Fuel Filter
• Ignition Module*
• Fuse*
• ECT sensor*
• Crank Position Sensor*
• Cam Position Sensor
• ECU
• Fuel Pump
• Coolant Temp Sensor

As I haven't been to pick it up I can't say about the really easy things to check but I was wondering if anyone knows of issues specific to the 2010 or that generation of Subarus that might explain what's happening? As it's only been twice I can't really narrow anything down but as it left the wife and kid stranded I'm a bit nervous.

Edit: Just thought of this. We rarely drive far but over the past week we put about 2,000km on the car with two trips. If that makes a difference.

Thanks in advance!

Edited April 28, 2017 by potter2010

[potter2010]

Update:
I biked down to the car. First I checked the voltage on the battery, 12.3v so that's good. My load metre doesn't go up high enough so I couldn't test that. I started up the car and away it went; HOWEVER, the CEL came on. I checked the code and 'P0335 - Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit'. I looked up the code specific to Subaru and it reads 'Crankshaft Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction'. As that was one of the things on my list above I'm going to guess that's the problem.

Odd thing though, this may be part of the error but the 'Cruise' indicator kept flashing (cruise control could not be turned on or off), the emergency brake light kept flashing (regardless of the brake being on or not), the Vehicle Dynamics Control (VDC) warning light stays on (had to look the name of that one up and pressing the button for it did nothing), and pressing the Hill Start Assist/Holder button doesn't activate the function but the car beeps each time you press the button. The Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS) warning light was on but our summer tires don't have sensors so that's expected to be on, though who knows maybe it'd be on anyway with the rest of them. The CEL light was obviously on too.

I'm going to search around the forum about how to fix the code but any suggestions on the lights would be appreciated. Thank you.
 

[potter2010]

I may have figured out the lights, apparently your dash can go crazy if the gas cap needs replacing or maybe didn't go on right:

I'll have to try this one out.

Update: I went out and reseated the gas cap the turned the car on. The light show was gone as well as the CEL. I checked with my code reader and the crankshaft sensor code was still stored but the light was off. Tired the car a couple more times, all good. We'll see if it throws a code again or won't start.

Anyone heard of a loose gas cap causing it to throw the crankshaft sensor error?

Edited April 28, 2017 by potter2010

[golucky66]

I highly doubt the gas cap had anything to do with the crank code.

But that crankshaft position sensor malfunction would definitely cause a no start or extended crack condition.

[ferret]

Just had similar condition on daughter's 2001 Outback..... one day she called, CEL was on.... code was for CAM Sensor. Car was running fine. Erased code and went on her way.

 

Forward a few weeks....... Crank, NO START..... No further CELs..... 

 

Had a used cam sensor in garage from one of my other repairs..... went out and replaced the cam sensor.,,,, VOILA... All is right with her Outback again.

 

If it were not for that single CEL a few days earlier, I would have been in more PD or " Hunt and Peck" mode.

 

My advice, don't ignore the crank sensor CEL.... they are cheap and easy to replace,

[AdventureSubaru]

Agreed. gas cap wont be linked to crank sensor. Crank sensor codes come from failing crank sensors, or a timing issue. As the car is running fine, I'd suggest getting a new crank sensor.

[golucky66]

So the reason that YouTuber said it could be your gas gap is because whenever newer Subarus get a code in the ecm. It turns multiple lights on. Typically the check engine light, stability/traction control light, and cruse flashes.

So the gas cap being loose will set an EVAP large leak code in the ecm. Which in turn, turns on all those lights.

The only way the gas cap would cause dash lights was if there was that code in the ecm for EVAP large leak. And seeing as you pulled the code(s) and that wasn't one of them. The gas cap isn't an issue.

 

The check engine light came on because the crankshaft code and it stayed on while it saw a current fault that trip.

The light(s) might e went out because after the car sat and the next time it started, the crankshaft sensor wasn't a active fault, and it turns into a history code.

 

Either way. Get it looked at. And your no start should be fixed.

[potter2010]

I highly doubt the gas cap had anything to do with the crank code.

But that crankshaft position sensor malfunction would definitely cause a no start or extended crack condition.

 

 

Just had similar condition on daughter's 2001 Outback..... one day she called, CEL was on.... code was for CAM Sensor. Car was running fine. Erased code and went on her way.

 

Forward a few weeks....... Crank, NO START..... No further CELs..... 

 

Had a used cam sensor in garage from one of my other repairs..... went out and replaced the cam sensor.,,,, VOILA... All is right with her Outback again.

 

If it were not for that single CEL a few days earlier, I would have been in more PD or " Hunt and Peck" mode.

 

My advice, don't ignore the crank sensor CEL.... they are cheap and easy to replace,

 

 

Agreed. gas cap wont be linked to crank sensor. Crank sensor codes come from failing crank sensors, or a timing issue. As the car is running fine, I'd suggest getting a new crank sensor.

 

 

So the reason that YouTuber said it could be your gas gap is because whenever newer Subarus get a code in the ecm. It turns multiple lights on. Typically the check engine light, stability/traction control light, and cruse flashes.

So the gas cap being loose will set an EVAP large leak code in the ecm. Which in turn, turns on all those lights.

The only way the gas cap would cause dash lights was if there was that code in the ecm for EVAP large leak. And seeing as you pulled the code(s) and that wasn't one of them. The gas cap isn't an issue.

 

The check engine light came on because the crankshaft code and it stayed on while it saw a current fault that trip.

The light(s) might e went out because after the car sat and the next time it started, the crankshaft sensor wasn't a active fault, and it turns into a history code.

 

Either way. Get it looked at. And your no start should be fixed.

 

I shall follow the advice of all here as everyone is agreed. I'm glad the CEL went on while I was around or I'd be scratching my head. Since the battery seems to be fine I would have been looking something fuel related.

There's some good sensors on RockAuto but due to the random nature of the no start I'm going to get one through NAPPA so it's here Monday instead of next week. Hopefully it's decent.

 

Thanks everyone for the advice and confirmation!!!

 

 

[DaveT]

12.3v on the battery, at rest (sitting overnight) is low. That indicates about 1/2 of a full charge on a good battery. Full charge resting voltage should be 12.6v. This probably has nothing to do with the no start, but it's something to look into before it gets worse.

[potter2010]

12.3v on the battery, at rest (sitting overnight) is low. That indicates about 1/2 of a full charge on a good battery. Full charge resting voltage should be 12.6v. This probably has nothing to do with the no start, but it's something to look into before it gets worse.

 

The 12.3v was the car sitting for 2-3 hours. The battery came with the car when we bought it and not marked when it was bought so I'm not too sure how old it is. I'll have to keep an eye on it though. Thank you!

[golucky66]

A 1000CA battery is quite big for the car and the charging system that's designed around a 550 CCA battery.

Unless you're in very cold climates, I don't see a need for such a big battery. You're just paying more for a bigger battery that's still only going to last 3-6 years.

Edited April 30, 2017 by golucky66

[1 Lucky Texan]

I do think the CPS code needs investigating.

 

 

but, anothe culprit could be flooding. The next time the problem occurs, HOLD the gas pedal to the floor. This signals the ECU to cut-off fuel ('clear flood' mode) because, , on many cars, a cold start followed by - say -  backing the car out of a garage, shutting it off, getting out to close a garage door, OR any similar procedure, can cause the car to flood. Or, leave the car running if safe to do so.

[3Pin]

Just had the same thing with my 02 outback.  Replaced the crankshaft position sensor and the problem went away.

[potter2010]

A 1000CA battery is quite big for the car and the charging system that's designed around a 550 CCA battery.

Unless you're in very cold climates, I don't see a need for such a big battery. You're just paying more for a bigger battery that's still only going to last 3-6 years.

Yea, I may not have gone that big but came with the car. It sure does start in -30c though.

 

I do think the CPS code needs investigating.

 

 

but, anothe culprit could be flooding. The next time the problem occurs, HOLD the gas pedal to the floor. This signals the ECU to cut-off fuel ('clear flood' mode) because, , on many cars, a cold start followed by - say -  backing the car out of a garage, shutting it off, getting out to close a garage door, OR any similar procedure, can cause the car to flood. Or, leave the car running if safe to do so.

I was wondering about the flooding but I'll pass this onto the wife if it happens again. Thanks!

 

Just had the same thing with my 02 outback.  Replaced the crankshaft position sensor and the problem went away.

Here's hoping it's the same.

 

Edit: Figured out how to get the drivebelt off. Spring loaded tensioners are awesome!

Edited May 2, 2017 by potter2010

[potter2010]

Swapped out the sensor. Here's hoping.

Thanks everyone for the help!

[DaveT]

That low after only a few hours isn't good.

 

Overnight is usually long enough for batteries to settle to their resting voltage after a charge (any time the engine is run) any loads will also disrupt the accuracy of this check, except for things like the clock and radio keep alive currents.

 

I always install the largest battery that will fit into the area.

[golucky66]

Battery voltage of 12.3 is low ASSUMING it was fully charged the previous day/early. If this car has been cranked over and over and never driven for long (>20 minutes) 12.3 might not be an issue. Just might mean the battery needs a good charge.

[DaveT]

Yes, that could be. Just something to check to be sure it's coming back.

[potter2010]

That low after only a few hours isn't good.

 

Overnight is usually long enough for batteries to settle to their resting voltage after a charge (any time the engine is run) any loads will also disrupt the accuracy of this check, except for things like the clock and radio keep alive currents.

 

I always install the largest battery that will fit into the area.

 

 

Battery voltage of 12.3 is low ASSUMING it was fully charged the previous day/early. If this car has been cranked over and over and never driven for long (>20 minutes) 12.3 might not be an issue. Just might mean the battery needs a good charge.

 

It may have been low from my wife trying to start. I know she had tried a few times, maybe two maybe ten. We haven't had any issue since I swapped the sensor so it looks like that may have been the issue. It'd be nice if Subaru had given another few centimetres on the wires or I had smaller hands but I finally got it unclipped. There was some oily dirt/grime around it so I'm wondering if that fouled it up or maybe it just had enough.

 

Thanks again.