AlexN Posted April 29, 2017 Share Posted April 29, 2017 Hi to all subi fans First of all my english is not very good so,sorry for my mistakes So,i recently buy Subi Legacy IV Gen Wagon 2005 , 2.5 165hp 4EAT. I change everyting that necessary in the engine room and the transmision + ATF and front and rear difs oil.They told me that the old rear dif oil was black.Everyting looks great but i have some issues with some kind of torque bind maybe. When i go out from my garage in reverse and the garage is on the gravel uphill road,so when i back up the rear tyres start to bind but only my steering wheel is more than 90 degree turn.In the clear ashphault when i back up with steering wheel turn far left or far right dont have the binding issue.I buy the car with the switch next to gear lever that is replace the need of put the FWD fuse everytime.The wires are cut under the fuse hole and wired to the switch.One white wire goes from the switch to the group of wires that goes to the socket of the button that command the electrical mirrors.I think its goes to ground or 12v ( the last picture). So,when i push the switch in ON position the AWD light apears in the dash. But the bind continue and i think the rear wheels still works,because i lift up the whole car and when i turn on the switch and put in D or R the rear wheels still spins.Is the duty C dont working propoerly ? and if my duty c dont work properly is that mean that my subi dont distrubute the power normaly like 50/50 in first and reverse and 90/10 in normal conditions and now atm with bind problem and maybe not working duty C my subi is locked 50/50 all the time? Regards Alex N. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted April 30, 2017 Share Posted April 30, 2017 (edited) the presence of the switch seems to indicate the previous owner knew the car had a problem - so, Duty Solenoid C or wear/grooves in the 'basket' in the tail of the trans are causing the wet clutch plates to jam. (if use of the switch helps, chances are good the Duty C Solenoid is OK, and possibly the wet clutch pack) BUT, othe rissues might be at play - all 4 tires MUST be the same brand/size/model and near each other in wear. If a mismatched trans or rear differential have been installed, you will have binding. Edited April 30, 2017 by 1 Lucky Texan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexN Posted April 30, 2017 Author Share Posted April 30, 2017 Sorry i forgot to say..all 4 tyres are the same. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtdash Posted May 2, 2017 Share Posted May 2, 2017 Hi, Do you have a tag like this under the hood/bonnet by the left strut tower? Note the Transmission type. Make sure it matches the ID on the transmission -like this but may be on top: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted May 2, 2017 Share Posted May 2, 2017 You first want to make sure the transmission or rear diff weren't replaced with an different final drive ratio unit. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexN Posted May 2, 2017 Author Share Posted May 2, 2017 Thanks for the replays guys. I have the plate with the info for the engine and gearbox under the hood,but how to check the number on the gearbox without to remove it from the car and how to understand did my rear dif is changed or not? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted May 2, 2017 Share Posted May 2, 2017 you could use some chalk to mark the bottom of each tire, then drive forward for - 10 revolutions ? w'ever of a front tire, then look ath the chalk marks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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