1988 DL Base model - Oil Pump

[kohtkw22]

Hello, 

 

My name is Kris and I live in Toronto, Canada. My 1988 DL is currently experiencing the "tick of death"and sometimes stalling issues. I have read on here that replacing the oil pump will help with this issue. However, my mechanic and I are having a problem locating the whole oil pump assembly. It seems it may be a part that has been discontinued. Does anyone on here happen to know where to find one? Thank you all very much. 

 

Kris 

[DaveT]

They are no longer available. Most likely you don't need the pump, only the seals. A Fel Pro headset conversion kit has the shaft seal.

Probably the other o ring

Dealer for the micky mouse o ring.

[kohtkw22]

Thank you Dave T.

 

Also, there is a hum coming from the fuel pump, but fuel pressure is running to spec. Once the hum started in January, issues of surging and stalling started to happen. I have had the heads replaced, valve seals replaced, 1 lifter replaced thus far, new water pump, spark plugs, and running 10W60 synthetic. When I received the car back from the shop after all this, the car seemed to run mint for about 2 weeks, when "tick of death" started and 2 instances of stalling on colder mornings. The "hum" from the fuel pump was/is still there? would this contribute to the issue of stalling? Should I replace the fuel pump or does this not matter?  Should I also consider having all the lifters rebuilt, or replaced, along with re-sealing the oil pump? Should I just ditch the car? Thanks and sorry for any confusion. 

 

Kris

[Dee2]

would this contribute to the issue of stalling - Should I replace the fuel pump or does this not matter?  

 

--The fuel pump could be going out.  Humming noise is common to these older models.  Mine hums but it still works.

 

Should I also consider having all the lifters rebuilt, or replaced,

 

-- any diagnostics to warrant the repairs ?  I would try just resealing the pump

 

along with re-sealing the oil pump?

 

-- Resealing the oil pump is a common need for these engines.  You also may want to switch to a 10w40 oil

 

Should I just ditch the car?

 

-- depends on the overall condition of the car and how much you like the car

[DaveT]

As long as it isn't leaking lots or burning lots, I run Amsoil 10w-40.

 

For the tick, reseal the pump first.

 

I have had some pumps that were audible, some not.

 

Weird idle and drivability issues could be caused by the cts failing. Or loose connection or loose ground.

 

I have 2 4wd wagons with ea82s. I don't plan on giving up on them anytime soon. It's all in your preferences and resources.

[kohtkw22]

Thanks guys for your advice!

 

To seal the oil pump is "the other o-ring" mentioned above included in the fel-pro headset conversion kit do you know, or have to buy it separate? Are there part numbers listed for the seals? I can't seem to find them, maybe I am just that much of a nOOb. 

 

I absolutely love this car and don't want to give up on it yet. It only has 155,000kms and the body/interior is spotless. It is weird to me that all these issues are arising with such low km's, but I think it is because it sat for so long un-driven. 

 

Thanks again. 

[DaveT]

I'm not sure if the orings are included.  There are a few listed, but apparently, I used them.

What I do:  Get the headset & conversion kit.  If the orings for the pump are not there / correct, go to the dealer.  Still need the seal and other parts.

 

At around 100K miles, it's pretty common to need to do a reseal of these engines.  150K miles = alternator brush wears out.
Replace the timing belt and 3 idlers every 50K to be sure you are not stranded by a belt breaking.  Higher quality parts only.  No cheapie kits.

 

Also, 30 years old, regardless of miles, plastic and rubber [seals etc.] are going to be end of life. 

 

Always have boot kits for the CVJs on hand.  Regrease and reboot axles, don't drive them until they are destroyed and get aftermarket junk.

 

I've been maintaining GL / Loyales since 1988.  I've had several.  One died in a wreck.  Others taken by rust.  Rust is the #1 killer, so stay ahead of it.  I have an 87 and a 93 currently, with near zero rust. 

I've driven a couple of them past 200K miles, and rust was the only reason they are gone.  But I kept the driveline parts.

[idosubaru]

I would try to diagnose rather than throw parts at it.

 

Any check engine lights?

 

What kind of gas mileage are you getting?

 

Can you describe the symptoms concise and clear? What does it do and when - all the time, warm cold highway idling....

 

Tune up - plugs, wires, cap and rotor?

(Ideally you check all those I have seen new plugs and rotors/caps that failed soon after install - but it's rare)

 

If you have to throw parts then start cheap and go from there.

 

One or two that sat for a long time that had starting and drivability issues I couldn't figure out needed distributors. I'm not sure how to test those as the ones I had seemed to operate fine.

 

I've seen knock sensor and oxygen sensor on those engines cause issues without check engine lights.

 

Find someone that will ship you a spare MAF, Disty, knock sensor to swap out for testing. I might do it for you and have some it before but I'm extremely busy and slightly annoyed at the one person that never mailed my stuff back. You might offer someone $75 and then you get your money back when you ship the parts back.