milty60 Posted June 8, 2017 Share Posted June 8, 2017 I plan on replacing both rear struts this weekend on my son's Legacy - going to swap out the old coil springs - got new struts form RockAuto - will rent a coil compressor tool - any tips, cautions on doing it - already got a quote from a local garage will do each one of for fifty bucks if I fail - trying to save the 100 bucks for my son. Thanks, Milty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
=CC= Posted June 8, 2017 Share Posted June 8, 2017 The small compressors are kind of a pain in the butt to use, but they will work. The problem with them is that unless you have an extra set of hands, they can be awkward to place and compress. If you have access to air tools, that will make it a lot easier. We just purchased a large floor mounted spring compressor, and it is a million times easier to use than the small ones. Best advice I can give is take your time, and have someone around to help position stuff. Check the nuts on them as well; we had one break (!) and go flying across the garage. My husband was lucky to not lose an eye with that piece of crap...it went straight to the scrap metal bin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted June 8, 2017 Share Posted June 8, 2017 rear springs are much easier than fronts. sometimes, you get better clearance for a socket if one compressor's hex-head faces the opposite direction from the other. doing struts is why I bought my corded electric impact wrench from Lowes - should have bought one 35 years ago! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted June 8, 2017 Share Posted June 8, 2017 (edited) On rears you can just have a friend push the strut top down while you start the nut. The coil rate on rears is low. You don't need any spring compressor at all. GD Edited June 8, 2017 by GeneralDisorder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brus brother Posted June 8, 2017 Share Posted June 8, 2017 (edited) Just happened to view the above video where ericthecarguy was replacing the top mount on rear strut assembly. He gives some tips/reasons for using air/impact tools (as recommended above) and also using zip ties (might consider hose clamps) to stabilize the setup and prevent fly-away. Please let me know how this worked out as I am about to try myself with autozone loaner spring compressor. Edited June 9, 2017 by Turbone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted June 8, 2017 Share Posted June 8, 2017 +1, lots of good feedback here already. the rears are easy, I just zipped the bolts off of rear struts two days ago without compressors, nothing happens as they're not under much tension with the weaker rear springs. i've been using cheap $12 or something compressors off amazon for years. they're fine, having air tools makes it a quick even if i have to reset them once or twice. they would suck with hand tools. top bolt alignment is critical. once it's disassembled there's no way to get your strut mount bolt alignment back. mark it positively well such that you won't loose it during the work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jp98 Posted June 8, 2017 Share Posted June 8, 2017 After I replaced all of the struts on my 98 Outback I came to the conclusion that it is best farmed out to the repair shop. That way you can just relax and have a cool one. Other than that I used some spring compressors that I got from JC Whitney. They were two that you fit onto each spring. I used a air impact wrench to tighten them down, a few turns on one and then the other. Everything went like clock work, just a lot of work. On my Outback the brake lines went through the mounting hole on the strut. I didn't want to have to disconnect them and then bleed the brakes so I took a dremel tool and cut a notch in the mounting on the old strut and bent it out of the way to remove it. I then cut a slot in the new strut mount before I mounted the strut. I then bent it a little and placed the brake back into place. By the time I had done 4 struts I was finished with any more work that had to be done. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
somick Posted June 8, 2017 Share Posted June 8, 2017 Lubricate compressor's nut well. Mark everything, like Garry said. Be careful! YouTuber Eric The Car Guy has few helpful videos. Good luck, Sam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
milty60 Posted June 12, 2017 Author Share Posted June 12, 2017 Strut replacement went fairly smooth this past weekend. Rented coil compressor and rented an electric impact gun - used just about every tip you guys gave to do the job. Only interesting thing is all the bolts that held the strut in place were all straight - no adjusting bolts - all 4 the same diameter top to bottom - I am positive they are the original struts and bolts - verified by past owner and the amount of rust and corrosion on the struts, coils, bolts mounting bushing convince me its the original components. Is it possible some 96 legacy rears are not adjustable? ....Milty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted June 13, 2017 Share Posted June 13, 2017 The rear's never have camber adjust bolts. That is on front struts only. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted June 13, 2017 Share Posted June 13, 2017 +1 top camber bolt for alignment is front struts only on newer gen Subaru from 1990 until present. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted June 13, 2017 Share Posted June 13, 2017 It is handy to have a bottle jack available to "jack" the strut in place upon re-assembly. Much easier then trying to strong arm the strut in place for bolt down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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