JLow03 Posted June 20, 2017 Share Posted June 20, 2017 Hey guys, I have a set of wheels that I'd love to run but unfortunately, my shop just called and said there's not quite enough thread on the stock studs to run them safely. Is it an option to replace the OEM studs with extended ones, such as the ones that ARP sells? If so, what size / model do I need to look for? I have never swapped out studs before but I am losing my mind trying to find a wheel that works for this car, so I'd prefer not to go back to the drawing board just yet. The wheel I have otherwise fits and looks correct for the era, so I'd like to try and keep them if I can. Thanks for any/all advice. Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted June 20, 2017 Share Posted June 20, 2017 You can use studs for the legacy/impreza with some modifications to the hub. The knurled area on the newer studs is about 2mm bigger than the xt6 studs. To allow them to grab properly you'd need the stud hole to be drilled to the proper size. I don't remember the numbers off the top of my head but they were posted in the thread about the reproduction xt6 hubs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JLow03 Posted June 20, 2017 Author Share Posted June 20, 2017 So to be clear, there's no plug-and-play option for extended wheel studs for the XT6? I was under the impression as long as they were M12 x 1.25, I would be in good shape. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted June 20, 2017 Share Posted June 20, 2017 You run the risk of the lug not seating properly if the hole isn't modified for correct knurl engagement. I've seen people weld studs in place before, but I don't really like that practice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JLow03 Posted June 20, 2017 Author Share Posted June 20, 2017 OK. This is all new territory for me, so I apologize for the stupid questions. But - is there any option that does't require drilling out the hubs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted June 20, 2017 Share Posted June 20, 2017 There's no stupid question unless it isn't asked. I haven't found any longer studs that have the correct knurl. Spent a few days looking through stud catalogs last summer when I was looking for an option. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JLow03 Posted June 20, 2017 Author Share Posted June 20, 2017 Thank you. In your opinion, is drilling the hubs a big "ask" of a shop or is it something most mechanics would be comfortable doing? I have a great restoration/race prep shop I work with but I haven't proposed this idea to them yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted June 20, 2017 Share Posted June 20, 2017 I don't see why they would have a problem with it. It ideally would be done on a drill press with the hub removed from the car. Just need to find the size they would need to be drilled to. If you don't have any luck I can dig through my old research and see what that size is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
czny Posted June 20, 2017 Share Posted June 20, 2017 Here's some pages from Dorman hardware catalog including application chart for 12-1.25mm studs. Stud profiles include knurling diameters/length & etc. Complete catalogs can be found at: dormanproducts.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted June 20, 2017 Share Posted June 20, 2017 Looking at those pdfs Dorman 610-323 looks to be a good match. Knurl is slightly larger, only by 0.35mm, which won't be enough to make a difference. They're 11mm longer, which should be more than a enough to give the extra threads you're needing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
czny Posted June 20, 2017 Share Posted June 20, 2017 (edited) Looking at those pdfs Dorman 610-323 looks to be a good match. Knurl is slightly larger, only by 0.35mm, which won't be enough to make a difference. They're 11mm longer, which should be more than a enough to give the extra threads you're needing. Those are 12-1.50 thread studs. He'll have to get lug nuts to suit the studs & wheels. More Dorman charts including applications.......... Edited June 21, 2017 by czny Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted June 20, 2017 Share Posted June 20, 2017 Good catch. I missed that one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JLow03 Posted June 21, 2017 Author Share Posted June 21, 2017 Those are 12-1.50 thread studs. He's have to get lug nuts to suit the wheels. More Dorman charts including applications.......... Thanks for the insight. More dense questions ahead: so the extended studs will work, but I will need to find the proper lug nuts to work with that thread - is that what you're saying? In terms of suiting the wheels: they are aftermarket OZs. Would there be some measurements required to see what width lug nuts would work with the width of the lug holes? Thanks, Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
czny Posted June 21, 2017 Share Posted June 21, 2017 (edited) Thanks for the insight. More dense questions ahead: so the extended studs will work, but I will need to find the proper lug nuts to work with that thread - is that what you're saying? In terms of suiting the wheels: they are aftermarket OZs. Would there be some measurements required to see what width lug nuts would work with the width of the lug holes? Thanks, Jeff Exactly. I have no experience with OZ wheels, so you'll have to measure hole diameter & match up the lugnuts & washers(if needed) to fit. Look at Dorman chart 281-286, page 282. Your wheel guy should be able to help here. Wherever you bought your wheels ought to have 12-1.50 nuts to match. Toyota & others use that thread pitch. It is very common thread size. Subaru & Nissan use 12-1.25 mm thread studs. Edited June 21, 2017 by czny Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted June 21, 2017 Share Posted June 21, 2017 (edited) I would contact ARP and see what they say, see if you can get measurements of the existing studs ahead of time. it wouldn't be the norm for them to help as volume is king in automotive world but i've got a lot of experiences that say don't let a brick wall get in your way every time either. I would drill out the holes. A custom race and automotive shop has to be doing myriads of custom designs that aren't lab, structural, engineering, CATIA/SolidWorks, and materials tested all day long. they should have a good eye for it, the only reason they'll balk is if they're not familiar with Subarus, that's a typical hesitation. i hesitate when i work on other vehicles - i just don't know or have any experience with them. Edited June 21, 2017 by grossgary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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