djellum Posted June 24, 2017 Share Posted June 24, 2017 so the stock pedal on my 87 ea82 wagon wont fully open my weber. It gets just to the point that the secondaries want to open but don't. it was that way on my dfv and dgv, and even with a smaller linkage closer to the shaft its not anywhere near opening the secondary. Has anyone had a similar issue and what was your fix? I either need to allow the pedal to return closer to the firewall, or fab up some kind of lever or gear to allow the cable to pull farther than the pedal will move normally. The pedal is lower at rest than the other pedals but it seems to have a normal amount of movement. Going to look at it in the morning, thought I would get a jump start and see if its more common than it seems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted June 24, 2017 Share Posted June 24, 2017 You just need to use the throttle wheel off a Hitachi carb. The diameter of the wheel dictates how much rotation you get for a given unit of cable travel. Smaller wheel = more degrees of rotation. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djellum Posted June 24, 2017 Author Share Posted June 24, 2017 Ive used a really small wheel, though it wasnt a stock one. The cable stop was only about 1/8 - 1/4 from the shaft, and it still didnt open. Ill try the stock one though, going to get one now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subaru Scott Posted June 24, 2017 Share Posted June 24, 2017 The nice thing about the stock wheel is that it gets closer to the shaft as it advances. So you have more travel off idle for better control. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djellum Posted June 24, 2017 Author Share Posted June 24, 2017 yah, Im down to try it, cant find my stock one though. I thought I saved it with my parts box but I guess not. Anyone have one around I can pick up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbosubarubrat Posted June 25, 2017 Share Posted June 25, 2017 This guy might I bought the wheels off him today didn't bother to look at the carb though. https://portland.craigslist.org/clc/pts/6188442385.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sapper 157 Posted June 25, 2017 Share Posted June 25, 2017 If that doesn't work I have plenty of spare throttle wheels. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djellum Posted July 3, 2017 Author Share Posted July 3, 2017 some update on this. got the linkage from sapper (thanks a bunch). still having some issues though the throttle opens fully now. the main issue is the linkage binds up when the secondaries just get touched by the lever that actuates them. I double checked the shaft nut a bunch of times, does it loose and tight, and the shaft moves freely until the little lever touches the secondary linkage. once it opens its free and smooth until whatever condition that causes it reoccurs (happens when driving so I cant tell yet what). doesnt seem to be binding on gaskets or the adapter It doesnt do it all the time and once you free it then it runs fine for a bit. the odd thing is that it seems to be that when you move the choke plates open by hand, even a quarter inch before you cycle the throttle then its completely smooth. I cant see anything where one would affect the other, but its worked 100%. I pull in and kill it, cycle the linkage softly by hand, bump, bump, push choke plate open another 1/4 inch, butter smooth. is there something connecing those systems that I dont know about? if I open the choke plate with the choke adjustment until it doesnt bind then its open too far and the car hesitates when lightly off throttle. thats another thing, I always thought that normal operation should be the choke plates completely vertical but this guy doesnt want to run that way. stock setup from the factory the choke once kicked down is still pretty closed and even at fully warm its only open 1/8 of and inch or so, though it opens once throttle is applied. runs beautifully this way though, if I open up the choke fully vertical even at full temp kicking the fan on it stumbles badly at light throttle. the instructions say to pin the choke fully open to tune in the motor, which I do, but then they come mostly shut again. I have no idea what is causing these two issues to seem connected. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djellum Posted July 3, 2017 Author Share Posted July 3, 2017 Guess im just trippin. It's the secondary linkage itself I think. You can press on the joint between the primary and secondary and feel it's bound. Seems to be the actual secondary thats the culprit. Ill keep checking if side flex or domething releases it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djellum Posted July 4, 2017 Author Share Posted July 4, 2017 I took the carb off and found the set screw for the secondary stop wasnt even touching, so I think it was closing too far and binding against the carb tunnel. Seems to have fixed it. Is there a setting for this? I just ran the car and turned it until I got the slightest change in idle. Didnt even throw off the normal settings, but it's not sticking Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charles_thomas Posted July 4, 2017 Share Posted July 4, 2017 Not sure which carb adapter plate you are running, But I had perviously used a slightly cheap one piece adapter, and the butterfly on the secondaries hit the adapter just barely when opening them. It would cause them to stick occasionally. When I opened them with my fingers, I had enough force to open them, bit the cable didnt. Acted exactly like the cable wasn't moving far enough randomly. Drove me nuts until I figured out what was actually causing it. Took a file to the inner edge of the adapter and didnt have a problem after that. May not be the case with yours, but it might be worth looking at. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djellum Posted July 4, 2017 Author Share Posted July 4, 2017 using the transdapt 1 piece, doesnt seem to be the issue. after adjusting the set screw on the secondary the bind went away, now its just finding a correct proceedure for setting it (though its doing very well so im not in a panic about it). 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagons Posted July 11, 2017 Share Posted July 11, 2017 Hey I had same problem. Linkage binded. I put a spacer bearing on the throttle shaft then put the throttle wheel on. It doesn't bind at all any more. After this I have t idling perfect and full throttle movement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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