alexbuoy Posted July 7, 2017 Share Posted July 7, 2017 Hello everybody I'm a newb at harnesses, so please bear with me. It's a 98 outback sport ej2.2 going into a 91 loyale. Harness trimmed already by ADF. Both power wires coming from the EJ fuel pump relay (FPR) are showing 12V constant, and i do not hear the FPR click when ign is on. Obviously thats not good, should any of the wires coming from the FPR be grounded? Another issue is when I have the fuel pump connected to constant 12V it won't start. It starts with starter fluid no problem. Injectors are getting 12v, but the ECU is not sending the ground signal! All of my grounds are good, I can not figure it out!! TL;DR Fuel pump relay power wires constant 12V. Injectors not firing, not receiving ground signal from ECU. please help my head hurts Be as blunt as you want, anything helps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skishop69 Posted July 7, 2017 Share Posted July 7, 2017 You're using an OBD2 set up? If it came from a car with an auto and ABS, you're going to run into issues with the SES being on all the time. As far as your relay, should be 4 pins. Pin 87 should go out to the fuel pump. Pin 30 should have 12v constant. These two pins are interchangeable depending on how the vehicle was wired. Pin 85 should have 12v constant and pin 86 should be the ground signal from the ECU to turn the relay on. These two pins are also interchangeable. If the relay is not turning on and you have no injector pulse from the ECU, you have either a power or ground issue to the ECU, bad ECU or, it's not receiving the theft deterrent signal it's expecting (if it had VTD) or some other sensor info from another module that's no longer there. You should have used and OBD1 engine and harness. Methinks you're in for some headaches. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexbuoy Posted July 7, 2017 Author Share Posted July 7, 2017 You're using an OBD2 set up? If it came from a car with an auto and ABS, you're going to run into issues with the SES being on all the time. As far as your relay, should be 4 pins. Pin 87 should go out to the fuel pump. Pin 30 should have 12v constant. These two pins are interchangeable depending on how the vehicle was wired. Pin 85 should have 12v constant and pin 86 should be the ground signal from the ECU to turn the relay on. These two pins are also interchangeable. If the relay is not turning on and you have no injector pulse from the ECU, you have either a power or ground issue to the ECU, bad ECU or, it's not receiving the theft deterrent signal it's expecting (if it had VTD) or some other sensor info from another module that's no longer there. You should have used and OBD1 engine and harness. Methinks you're in for some headaches. Yes OBDII and came from a car with manual ABS. Haven't thought about anti theft, as the harness did come with a high end alarm... It is pretty much a headache I've literally triple checked all of my wiring, grounds, and everything seems to be where it should be Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 7, 2017 Share Posted July 7, 2017 FPR has two 12v leads. An ECU coil ground control, and a 12v output to the fuel pump. The relay should fire when you turn on the ignition (switched power to ECU goes live) and then shut off and wait for cam and crank sync. If you are not getting the fuel pump prime pulse then the ECU is not fully powered, the relay is bad, the ECU is bad, or the wiring is wrong. GD 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted July 7, 2017 Share Posted July 7, 2017 (edited) You're using an OBD2 set up? If it came from a car with an auto and ABS, you're going to run into issues with the SES being on all the time. As far as your relay, should be 4 pins. Pin 87 should go out to the fuel pump. Pin 30 should have 12v constant. These two pins are interchangeable depending on how the vehicle was wired. Pin 85 should have 12v constant and pin 86 should be the ground signal from the ECU to turn the relay on. These two pins are also interchangeable. If the relay is not turning on and you have no injector pulse from the ECU, you have either a power or ground issue to the ECU, bad ECU or, it's not receiving the theft deterrent signal it's expecting (if it had VTD) or some other sensor info from another module that's no longer there. You should have used and OBD1 engine and harness. Methinks you're in for some headaches. There is no issue with using an OBD II harness. Certainly not an 98 anyhow. Stripped properly there is ZERO interaction between the ECU and old ABS system. Not his problem. Even from an Automatic, an OBD II harness will still run fine. To the OP. So you've got 12v on 2 of the 4 Fuel Pump relay wires? That's a good start. There should be a 3rd wire, thick gauge, probably Black/red but maybe different. Anyhow it's the one that would run to the Fuel Pump for it's power. The 4th wire is the key. It's skinny, and likely a light green and connects back to the ECU. This is the Wire that the ECU grounds to turn on the relay to the pump. You can test by Disconnecting the plug from the ECU, and give the relay ground to that pin. It should then run the pump. Given that you don't have Injector pulse I am gonna guess you don't have 12v to the ECU for "run" position. do you have a Wiring schematic for that harness? Pinout of the ECU? Edited July 7, 2017 by Gloyale 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexbuoy Posted July 7, 2017 Author Share Posted July 7, 2017 Thanks for the replies everyone. Here is the pinout for my ECU My harness was stripped by a reputable person, but I do not know how well the job was done (said a couple wires he didn't know what to do). Right now the wires going to pin 81 (at/mt identification), 17,18 (control systems) are not connected to anything. Should those be grounded? I know the relay itself is good for the fuel pump, i have 3 different ones that I tried. I'm going to try my ecu in another car tomorrow to see if my ecu is good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted July 7, 2017 Share Posted July 7, 2017 Yeah, the wires from 17 and 18 need to be tied into ground. that is likely the issue. Make sure pin 85 is connected to Ig. switched power. Ground pin 81 IF you have a Neutral switch in your trans. Otherwise I'd recommend leaving it in AT designation (open) It will idle better. Fuel pressure and solenoids and level sensors you can leave out. Will throw codes but not needed to run just great. Can get rid of a few of the codes with a couple resistors to ground. But I kept always getting a "MNFC. Controlled Equip" code using a 96 OBD II Outback 2.2 computer. Same pinouts I believe. You're using an OBD2 set up? If it came from a car with an auto and ABS, you're going to run into issues with the SES being on all the time. As far as your relay, should be 4 pins. Pin 87 should go out to the fuel pump. Pin 30 should have 12v constant. These two pins are interchangeable depending on how the vehicle was wired. Pin 85 should have 12v constant and pin 86 should be the ground signal from the ECU to turn the relay on. These two pins are also interchangeable. If the relay is not turning on and you have no injector pulse from the ECU, you have either a power or ground issue to the ECU, bad ECU or, it's not receiving the theft deterrent signal it's expecting (if it had VTD) or some other sensor info from another module that's no longer there. You should have used and OBD1 engine and harness. Methinks you're in for some headaches. Also disregard the pins mentioned here by SkiShop. He's talking about Bosch type relay configuration with standard 30/85/86/87/87A type designation. Not applicable to the hitachi/matsuba relays on a subaru. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skishop69 Posted July 8, 2017 Share Posted July 8, 2017 Well crap. lol Learn something new every day! The relays in my Baja had the same setup iirc, but then again, I never had any electrical issues with it. Thanks for pointing it out so I don't do it again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexbuoy Posted July 9, 2017 Author Share Posted July 9, 2017 (edited) GLoyale and GD you guys are a huge help!! I hooked pin 85 to ign on and 17,18 to ground and it started right up!!!!! Thank you guys so much for your help! To do: 1. Figure out the fat vacuum leaks 2. Still have to figure out the FPR (only have it connected to constant 12V) 3. Figure why when key is out on off ign is still on Edited July 9, 2017 by alexbuoy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
czny Posted July 9, 2017 Share Posted July 9, 2017 How are you getting around the smog inspection? I intend to EJ my 87 GL after registration/smog in September when tags come due. https://www.smogcheck.ca.gov/Industry/Engine_Change_Guidelines.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexbuoy Posted July 9, 2017 Author Share Posted July 9, 2017 How are you getting around the smog inspection? I intend to EJ my 87 GL after registration/smog in September when tags come due. https://www.smogcheck.ca.gov/Industry/Engine_Change_Guidelines.html i got a guy for smog lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
czny Posted July 10, 2017 Share Posted July 10, 2017 i got a guy for smog lol Some of us aren't so lucky. Last time I went for smog the SOB broke the radiator cooling fan switch causing it to overheat on the rack. WTF he was doing with his hands in there I'll never know. Real nice! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iluvdrt Posted July 21, 2017 Share Posted July 21, 2017 Nice, more EJ22 peeps in SoCal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsyme Posted July 25, 2017 Share Posted July 25, 2017 holy crap! Engine Change GuidelinesEngine changes continue to present problems and challenges to car owners and technicians. Our recommendation is to rebuild and reinstall the original engine, transmission, and emission control configuration To fix move out of California. vote with your feet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
czny Posted September 13, 2017 Share Posted September 13, 2017 holy crap! To fix move out of California. vote with your feet. House hunting in Montana already...............done with Commiefornia! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
83subaruGLchick Posted November 13, 2022 Share Posted November 13, 2022 On 7/7/2017 at 12:22 PM, Gloyale said: Yeah, the wires from 17 and 18 need to be tied into ground. that is likely the issue. Make sure pin 85 is connected to Ig. switched power. Ground pin 81 IF you have a Neutral switch in your trans. Otherwise I'd recommend leaving it in AT designation (open) It will idle better. Fuel pressure and solenoids and level sensors you can leave out. Will throw codes but not needed to run just great. Can get rid of a few of the codes with a couple resistors to ground. But I kept always getting a "MNFC. Controlled Equip" code using a 96 OBD II Outback 2.2 computer. Same pinouts I believe. Also disregard the pins mentioned here by SkiShop. He's talking about Bosch type relay configuration with standard 30/85/86/87/87A type designation. Not applicable to the hitachi/matsuba relays on a subaru. Does anyone have a diagram of the ECU pins? I’m chasing the same problem in my swap. I have a 83 GL I’m putting an OBD1 EJ222 out of a 92 legacy in. Not getting any pulse from the ECM to the injectors I’ve gone over the wiring over and over. Got the harness trimmed by SJR but he left a lot of stuff not labeled so I’m not sure what everything is…. Engine was in a AT but I got the right ignition coil for a MT… might be worth mentioning I wired my fuel pump to a switch for more anti theft, hoping there’s no way that could be the cause for my headache… getting to the point where I want to push the car off a cliff and cut my loses. Any help is alpreciated Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
83subaruGLchick Posted November 14, 2022 Share Posted November 14, 2022 (edited) I have a pin diagram but they don’t number up to 85 or anything it just goes through like 1-26 depending on the size of the pigtail? Am I just stupid? Can someone PLEASE shed some light on this. I feel like a idiot and am so beyond frustrated with this whole thing I DONT KNOW ANYMORE Edited November 14, 2022 by 83subaruGLchick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazyeights Posted November 14, 2022 Share Posted November 14, 2022 (edited) Have you read the EA to EJ swap guide? It has all of the diagrams, directions, and pictures that you need. EA to EJ swap guide Edited November 14, 2022 by Crazyeights Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
83subaruGLchick Posted November 14, 2022 Share Posted November 14, 2022 1 hour ago, Crazyeights said: Have you read the EA to EJ swap guide? It has all of the diagrams, directions, and pictures that you need. EA to EJ swap guide At this point I’ve read 2 of them at least a dozen times collectively…. At a major stand still and can’t figure it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted November 16, 2022 Share Posted November 16, 2022 On 11/13/2022 at 5:33 PM, 83subaruGLchick said: Does anyone have a diagram of the ECU pins? I’m chasing the same problem in my swap. I have a 83 GL I’m putting an OBD1 EJ222 out of a 92 legacy in. Not getting any pulse from the ECM to the injectors I’ve gone over the wiring over and over. Got the harness trimmed by SJR but he left a lot of stuff not labeled so I’m not sure what everything is…. Engine was in a AT but I got the right ignition coil for a MT… might be worth mentioning I wired my fuel pump to a switch for more anti theft, hoping there’s no way that could be the cause for my headache… getting to the point where I want to push the car off a cliff and cut my loses. Any help is alpreciated Just start a new thread, instead of digging up a 5+ year old one. And list your exact symptoms and what you've tried. Lots of good FSMs on www.jdmfsm.info Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Please sign in to comment
You will be able to leave a comment after signing in
Sign In Now