ferp420 Posted July 17, 2017 Share Posted July 17, 2017 Use silicone boots they dont were through ever there not cheap though i got mine on ebay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XHighOctanex Posted July 18, 2017 Author Share Posted July 18, 2017 Did you bottom out the joint while burping the air out of the boot after you regreased? When they heat the air expands, maybe you are popping them? I've actually never burped one. Normally I just squish the boot to feel for grease and the last axle is the one I regreased and moved the boot but never burped it. So it is very possible Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XHighOctanex Posted July 18, 2017 Author Share Posted July 18, 2017 Use silicone boots they dont were through ever there not cheap though i got mine on ebay How do they fit? Do you know the part number that fits our axles? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferp420 Posted July 18, 2017 Share Posted July 18, 2017 I Used universal boots there steped so you cut off the extra after install if there too big just dont cut too much off you can even strech the small end over the joint with out hurting them so you dont need to dissasemble the axles all the way just remove the old boots and streach the boot out till it fits they make a tool for that if you can find one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferp420 Posted July 18, 2017 Share Posted July 18, 2017 They come in all kinds of colors to i used blue to match my car lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XHighOctanex Posted July 18, 2017 Author Share Posted July 18, 2017 I Used universal boots there steped so you cut off the extra after install if there too big just dont cut too much off you can even strech the small end over the joint with out hurting them so you dont need to dissasemble the axles all the way just remove the old boots and streach the boot out till it fits they make a tool for that if you can find one Im gonna look them up tonight and I'll post a pic if them before I order anything to make sure they the right ones lol, you just take them off and put them on new axles when yours blow? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted July 18, 2017 Share Posted July 18, 2017 Have you tried prying with lots of leverage and seeing if the entire trans/engine assembly had much play? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferp420 Posted July 18, 2017 Share Posted July 18, 2017 You can and i have but like any boot if you put a stick through or pinch it they leak my last boot had several pin holes in it after the joint failed the boot is all that is holding the axle together and will still hold greese but the pin holes still lets the greese leak out but still keeps.dirt out and wont tear or fail i exploded a axle on the trail when i rebuild it with what parts.i had laying around i reused the boots and they were just fine untill my welded rear end ate the axle i still have th3 boots but im not gona reuse them except.maybe on a spare or something im sure i can seal the pin holes if i needed to but i dont so unless you phisicly damage the boot they will outlast the axles i had the same issues the sand.and grime would ware through the boots in no time and another +is silicone isent affected by heat like rubber so the cat wont hurt them use good greese and any axle will give decent service but remeber once you mod a part.like a axle.the warrenty goes out the window Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robm Posted July 18, 2017 Share Posted July 18, 2017 Is the heat shield on the cat converter still in place? If not, add one. If it is, add another. Just a piece of sheet metal is all you need, between the cat and the axle, Does the boot get closer to the cat with the lift? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XHighOctanex Posted July 18, 2017 Author Share Posted July 18, 2017 Is the heat shield on the cat converter still in place? If not, add one. If it is, add another. Just a piece of sheet metal is all you need, between the cat and the axle, Does the boot get closer to the cat with the lift? I do not believe there is a shield OFF the cat between it and the axle but there is the stock shield on the cat I believe. Hard to tell its all covered in an inch or 2 of grease 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted July 19, 2017 Share Posted July 19, 2017 (edited) Grease pile hahaha! rust proofing. I wouldn't expect it to be exhaust related at only 50 miles unless it's some egregious failure or custom exhaust job which seem unlikely. Edited July 19, 2017 by idosubaru Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XHighOctanex Posted July 19, 2017 Author Share Posted July 19, 2017 So new development, I always noticed but it never clicked because I must he that slow or soemthing. Anyways when I drive my transfer case shifter moves down/back a good bit or so like an inch almost if not a full inch. So since not only the tranny mounts are new but the way it moves, it says to me this is motor mounts right? Like the front of the tranny is lifting up with the engine. Gonna have to check those mounts. Still it's odd to me that it goes straight back not back and left or right, and yet it still only has been affecting my right axle. BUT it's something I'm going to check Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XHighOctanex Posted July 19, 2017 Author Share Posted July 19, 2017 Grease pile hahaha! rust proofing. I wouldn't expect it to be exhaust related at only 50 miles unless it's some egregious failure or custom exhaust job which seem unlikely. Yea lol I did my passenger rear axle for the first time today (already did the drivers a few months ago and just had to do the passenger for the first time and pretty sure it's stock) anyways I literally went to the front just for giggles and got 2 handfuls of grease out from on the crossmember Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djellum Posted July 19, 2017 Share Posted July 19, 2017 In all honesty I constantly ate axles until I dropped the crossmember. The axles handled it but boots would tear in short order then followed by the axle when it dries out. I know everyone says they can handle it but not my car. Might be worn mounts or some other issue but dropping the cross worked the best for me. Also I have had good luck with napa brand reman axles. Only ones I buy anymore. I have no clue if theres a difference in where the remaufacturer is or not but they hold the best if the ones ive tried. Wont matter till you fix the boot issue, non of them run dry for long Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XHighOctanex Posted July 19, 2017 Author Share Posted July 19, 2017 In all honesty I constantly ate axles until I dropped the crossmember. The axles handled it but boots would tear in short order then followed by the axle when it dries out. I know everyone says they can handle it but not my car. Might be worn mounts or some other issue but dropping the cross worked the best for me. Also I have had good luck with napa brand reman axles. Only ones I buy anymore. I have no clue if theres a difference in where the remaufacturer is or not but they hold the best if the ones ive tried. Wont matter till you fix the boot issue, non of them run dry for long Did you make your own drop or buy one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted July 19, 2017 Share Posted July 19, 2017 Regarding thesee silicone boots, are there any recommendations for good brands or brands to avoid? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted July 19, 2017 Share Posted July 19, 2017 So new development, I always noticed but it never clicked because I must he that slow or soemthing. Anyways when I drive my transfer case shifter moves down/back a good bit or so like an inch almost if not a full inch. So since not only the tranny mounts are new but the way it moves, it says to me this is motor mounts right? Like the front of the tranny is lifting up with the engine. Gonna have to check those mounts. Still it's odd to me that it goes straight back not back and left or right, and yet it still only has been affecting my right axle. BUT it's something I'm going to check Do you have a pitch stopper???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XHighOctanex Posted July 19, 2017 Author Share Posted July 19, 2017 Do you have a pitch stopper???? Where would it be? The center trans mount that looks like a v or a w? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djellum Posted July 19, 2017 Share Posted July 19, 2017 Made it, just 6 blocks. 2 square tube blocks per side for the crossmember, I used some pipe that fit the cup in the radius rod mount to drop the trans mount. I welded a washer from the trans mount on the end if it so its dished to accept the trans mount bushing. I cant remember if I had to flip the bushings or not but everythinh but the tube and the longer bolt came from the car. Cut the trans mount a bit shorter than 2 inches, so that the rear mount for the linkage platform will still reach the threaded stud. You will need to bend or modify the 4wd lever, I used a torch and bent it by hand but I dont know what you have available. I used the stock platform stud, though it's barely enough to catch threads and lock, cut the mount shorter and you will have an easier time. I also got some noise from my crusty carrier bearing from the new angle. Had to space it out and test drive a few times till it quieted. I had to cut a little plastic off the shift knob but you cant tell in the car that its shorter. Ive never been supremely confident in the trans mount, I would prefer a block that allowed for 2 bolts. Its held for a long time now though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XHighOctanex Posted July 19, 2017 Author Share Posted July 19, 2017 Made it, just 6 blocks. 2 square tube blocks per side for the crossmember, I used some pipe that fit the cup in the radius rod mount to drop the trans mount. I welded a washer from the trans mount on the end if it so its dished to accept the trans mount bushing. I cant remember if I had to flip the bushings or not but everythinh but the tube and the longer bolt came from the car. Cut the trans mount a bit shorter than 2 inches, so that the rear mount for the linkage platform will still reach the threaded stud. You will need to bend or modify the 4wd lever, I used a torch and bent it by hand but I dont know what you have available. I used the stock platform stud, though it's barely enough to catch threads and lock, cut the mount shorter and you will have an easier time. I also got some noise from my crusty carrier bearing from the new angle. Had to space it out and test drive a few times till it quieted.I had to cut a little plastic off the shift knob but you cant tell in the car that its shorter.Ive never been supremely confident in the trans mount, I would prefer a block that allowed for 2 bolts. Its held for a long time now though. How low did you drop yours? That sounds like a lot more work than what I have seen for the 1 or so inch. What about the steering piece from the legacy? And I have a full shop available and then all my stuff at home so I got pretty much anything I'll need lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted July 19, 2017 Share Posted July 19, 2017 Where would it be? The center trans mount that looks like a v or a w? Shaped like and sometimes refered to as the "dogbone". It goes from firewall above the engine, and down to the bracket on the EA82 bellhousing. If you don't have one, you need one. Not having one will cause the enigne to buck and jump around. Checking your motor mounts too is a good idea but if you don't have a pitch stopper, that is a problem. And still, The way you describe them blowing out "parallel with the axle" sounds like expansion blowout from heat. Ussually ripping from too much flexing happens along the lines of the boot ridges. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XHighOctanex Posted July 20, 2017 Author Share Posted July 20, 2017 Shaped like and sometimes refered to as the "dogbone". It goes from firewall above the engine, and down to the bracket on the EA82 bellhousing. If you don't have one, you need one. Not having one will cause the enigne to buck and jump around. Checking your motor mounts too is a good idea but if you don't have a pitch stopper, that is a problem. And still, The way you describe them blowing out "parallel with the axle" sounds like expansion blowout from heat. Ussually ripping from too much flexing happens along the lines of the boot ridges. Yea I have a dog bone lol, and yea it's splitting perpendicular to the ribs in the boot (|||<->)|) the best picture I can do on my phone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88SubieSnack Posted July 20, 2017 Share Posted July 20, 2017 Octane! I comend you for your persistance in resolving this issue. You sound like you want it done right. I agree. May I share my perspective? I previously had oem suspension and for some reason the passenger front inboard boot kept tearing and the joint became damaged. Axle after axle it would click and clunk and boots tear. So eventually I had replaced all the struts, strut bearings tophats, wheel bearing etc. As well as a pair of new HD axles. Problem solved. No more torn boots and clucking axles. And I'm about 5,000 miles. However I am at stock height but at any altered height of the vehicle, I can only rely on common sense indicating that your axles are no longer within the geometric design and angle of the engineers. So! I assume that you are lifted 2 inches, causing 2 inches of angle increased stress on those axles. Which makes sense right? So I think it is safe to say that you NEED to drop your sub frame the exact height as your lift kit. And to add to that, you should inspect all of your drivetrain mounts, suspension joints, and wheel bearings (like what I had shared earlier and had also replaced) so that you are 100% certain your front end is tight and strong. Idependent front suspension is exactly what it is. Its a bunch of parts bolted together, seperated by bolts and bushings to make one unit possible to support a vehicles weight. So if on part is worn and out of alignment, other parts are compromised. Does this make sense, I hope so. And I hope you get this issue resolved. -Will Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XHighOctanex Posted July 20, 2017 Author Share Posted July 20, 2017 Octane! I comend you for your persistance in resolving this issue. You sound like you want it done right. I agree. May I share my perspective? I previously had oem suspension and for some reason the passenger front inboard boot kept tearing and the joint became damaged. Axle after axle it would click and clunk and boots tear. So eventually I had replaced all the struts, strut bearings tophats, wheel bearing etc. As well as a pair of new HD axles. Problem solved. No more torn boots and clucking axles. And I'm about 5,000 miles. However I am at stock height but at any altered height of the vehicle, I can only rely on common sense indicating that your axles are no longer within the geometric design and angle of the engineers. So! I assume that you are lifted 2 inches, causing 2 inches of angle increased stress on those axles. Which makes sense right? So I think it is safe to say that you NEED to drop your sub frame the exact height as your lift kit. And to add to that, you should inspect all of your drivetrain mounts, suspension joints, and wheel bearings (like what I had shared earlier and had also replaced) so that you are 100% certain your front end is tight and strong. Idependent front suspension is exactly what it is. Its a bunch of parts bolted together, seperated by bolts and bushings to make one unit possible to support a vehicles weight. So if on part is worn and out of alignment, other parts are compromised. Does this make sense, I hope so. And I hope you get this issue resolved. -Will I do plan on dropping back down the subframe but do I have to do 2 inches or can I do 1? And I do plan on getting new struts and springs all the way around eventually. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djellum Posted July 20, 2017 Share Posted July 20, 2017 I dropped the full 2 inches. Once your pulling it all out to do it at all it's about the same work. I didnt want to experiment with 1 inch and find out it wasnt enough. It was pretty easy, only took a few hours, and most of that was due to the carrier noise and 4wd lever Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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