mickytrus Posted July 17, 2017 Share Posted July 17, 2017 Hello, Be on this forum for a while now. very familiar with EA82's in Loyale's. I just got a 98 Outback L. It is rather far from my home. I will pick it up and drive it back but, I have to do some work to it..... Need some info........ on specifics for the repairs.... I must do some Brake Work: How are the calipers bolted on Are calipers held on by two bolts that are 17mm? if not please explain, thanks! Replacing Brake Rotors Can you tell me about the Axle nut holding the hub on..... I am not familiar with this type of nut..... Old Subies use cotter pins on their axle nuts.... Please fill me in.... Are they (use them once - axle nuts) What Size are they? MM what are they torqued to? Motor Information The vehicle was setup with having to meet California emissions.... THe motor was replaced...... about 70 K ago? The motor was replaced with an EJ22 The motor runs wells though it does have a misfire..... I am going to replace the plugs and the ignition wires Can you tell me about the ignition coil ?????? They are under 40 dollars.... for these 2.2L motors...... Should I just go and change the ignition coil???????????? Timing Belt Info I will do a timing belt ////// belts.... How long are belts good for on 2.2L motors? What size is the lower pully nut??????? MM I have done many of these on 1.8l EA82's...... Anything new that I need to know??????? I think that is it.......... Thanks, Micky Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted July 17, 2017 Share Posted July 17, 2017 32mm axle nut. 22mm crank pulley bolt. 60,000 miles belts. how long they're good for depends if they're cheap aftermarket, OEM, how old they are, how long they've been sitting...etc.. brake calipers will be 12 or 14mm bolts rotors aren't bolted on with the axle nut. they're not bolted on at all - originals will have a set screw that in the rusty areas needs a high quality impact driver or drill it out. but you don't need to replace the rear rotors, they routinely last the life of the vehicles, particularly rear rotors. even if they're rusty and gouged, just run them, it'll wear off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted July 17, 2017 Share Posted July 17, 2017 not sure how ea82s handled parking brake, but on the present car, there are little shoes in side the rear disks - might need to back-off the 'star' adjusters to clear any lip worn into the drum 'area' if you do decide to pull the rotors. Subaru brakes are good components and rotors should be kept if they meet minimum thickness stamped on them. I would buy Centric brand rotors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtdash Posted July 17, 2017 Share Posted July 17, 2017 (edited) +1^ The Caliper bracket bolts that connect to the hub are 17mm. The caliper slider bolts are 14mm that connect to the bracket. There should be 2 holes that a 8 or 10mm bolt will screw into to 'push off' the rotor if stuck....like using a puller. Crank pulley is 22mm / 7/8". There's an access hole underneath the TB that a long screw driver or similar tool can be used to hold the flexplate - if an Automatic / 4EAT. 1990-1996 EJ22 had the HLA self-adustable valves ('90-'95 had dual port heads); '97-'98 were SLA (screw adjuster - '96-'98 had Single-port). Look under and see if you have a dual-port or Single-port exhaust to help determine the type. You might need to adjust the valves if SLA. I'd replace the plugs and wires b4 the coil pack....and they're usually cheap @ the local Pull and Save, if you're a visitor. There are FSM's posted online that can help w/these as well as many DIY posted on Youtube, etc. GL, Td Edited July 17, 2017 by wtdash Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john in KY Posted July 17, 2017 Share Posted July 17, 2017 New brake pads means the caliper pistons will have to be recessed. The first thing I do is use a long screwdriver as a pry bar to force the piston back. Really helps to also crack the bleeder valve because that fluid has to go somewhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtdash Posted July 17, 2017 Share Posted July 17, 2017 >>.and take the cap off the brake master cylinder>>>make sure it doesn't overflow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted July 17, 2017 Share Posted July 17, 2017 New brake pads means the caliper pistons will have to be recessed. The first thing I do is use a long screwdriver as a pry bar to force the piston back. Really helps to also crack the bleeder valve because that fluid has to go somewhere. easier using a "C" clamp to push back the piston, instead of using a large screw driver, IMHO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forester2002s Posted July 18, 2017 Share Posted July 18, 2017 Yes, a C-clamp makes it easy to compress the piston. I use an old brake-pad (reversed) between the 'mushroom' end of the clamp and the piston face. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john in KY Posted July 18, 2017 Share Posted July 18, 2017 I own a screwdriver but not a C-clamp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted July 18, 2017 Share Posted July 18, 2017 i've used an old pad as a lever to do the push-back just use w'ever and don't cut the dust boot and try not to score the rotor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickytrus Posted July 18, 2017 Author Share Posted July 18, 2017 Thanks for the info.... This all surely helps..... As for the Axle nut::::: As I had mentioned the old gens used cotter pins through the nut (as Caster nut) similiar to the tierod end and the ball joint.... So these Outback L's don't use a Caster nut to hold the axle(and everything) together...... Can you tell me about this 32MM Nut.... Is it reuseable? what do you torque it to? And like Why doesn't it get loose after tightening(due to not cotter pin) why does it stay tight????? This car has the 5 speed trans......... So the set up for the timing belt I am figuring it is similiar to the EA82's...that there is 2 timing belts and 2 tensioners? is that correct???? Regarding brake work Yeah, I will make sure I bring a C clamp............ So I won't replace rear rotors (cool!) The front driverside rotor is seriously warped....... I think the caliper is seized.......... do you think I can free it up????? with the clamp...... and is it possible that the caliper is not really seized but it is not sliding on sliders properly??????? As for EA82 trivia and what subies used to do Yeah so, as for the calipers and compressing the piston on and EA82 gen a funny looking tool was required........ the tool would fit onto a 3/8" drive extension and you would rachet clock wise (like threading a nut and bolt) to bring the piston inward for putting on a new set of pads. the tool had these points on it to grasp the piston and spin it inward within the bore of the caliper......... I think several manufacturers were doing this during, this time period..... my tool looks like a cube it can be attached to a 3/8" extension 4 possible ways, giving the user of the tool for different ways to grasp pistons and spin them in........ (cute!) but sorta stupid..... I wonder why this was done this way......(what was the benefit, if any??) As for Ebrake gotta say! bet Ebrake ever invented......... It is a front Ebrake..... two beefy cables come from lever at the center consol, which could be adjusted there for play...... they then went to either side of vehicle directly to each front caliper..... There, there was a very beefy lever that they attached to........ They work very very very welll....... Also very nice was the (clutch brake) ON Std trans......... Here, you push in clutch, and an additional cable went to an interesting set up near the master cylinder and spun mechanical energy from this additional cable( off of throw out bearing shifter fork) to create hydraulic pressure to apply brakes while clutch was pressed in, this was great on hills....... and those in the REAL OUTBACK(Australia) loved this set up..... along with the older gens.... which had an actual transfer case for some serious gear reduction.............. So thanks for helping me with this... and I look forward to more replies to this tread....... regarding the questions I am asking in this reply to this post... Micky Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted July 18, 2017 Share Posted July 18, 2017 (edited) axle nut is staked into a slot, but my corded electric impact can buzz them off. Otherwise, big cheater needed. many people reuse the nut, book says new nut. Final torque should be done off the ground - I 'buck up' the rotor with a big screwdriver in a vent - up against the brake caliper. Rebuilt axles are horrible - 1 good one for every 8-10 bad ones. Used Subaru OEM, maybe regreased and rebooted(check car-part.com or LKQ), or even new chinese axles (FEQ or maybe EMPI brands?) better than most rebuilt axles.one TB on that motor - you can search for images and youtube videos for examples. Edited July 18, 2017 by 1 Lucky Texan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted September 8, 2017 Share Posted September 8, 2017 mickytrus - how's the car? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted December 12, 2017 Share Posted December 12, 2017 bump Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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