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Engine cranks no spark, no check engine light at all, no LED on ECU


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No spark from coil (I swapped coil and ECU, timing belts good)

 

The check engine light is never on and the ECU never blinks the LED.

 

I should see the check engine light before starting the car right and the LED in the ECU?

 

It would still spark if fuel supply was the issue right?

 

Could it be the small contraption connected to the coil bracket? Is that an FET or igniter? How do I test that?

 

Previous owner installed some kind of relay and its spliced into the wiring from the Igniter thing - I'm wondering if the issue is there but I'm not familiar with that or this custom wiring.

 

This is an XT6 but it's identical to EA82 coil, ECU, ignition

 

XT6 driving perfect and then all in one second the RPMS shot high, a very brief screech from the engine, engine quit running and I coasted to a stop. Blew one fusible link.

 

Replaced fusible link and engine turns over great but no spark.

Edited by idosubaru
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May have also popped a fuse under the dash.  That contraption on the coil bracket gets 5V from the ECU. The distributor gets 12V. May want to check both. Also the coil bracket has to be grounded. Other words the bracket completes the ground. May want to test the alternator for output.

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Distributors go out on the GL's.  Coils go out with enough mileage.  The hot wire off of the alternator, the black lead coming off of the positive battery terminal, and the engine ground wires gets hot, hard and loses conductivity.  The condensor at the coil causes it not to start. These are all problems with 85 and 86 Gl's and GL-10's.  Since you did not mention the year, I have no idea what you are dealing with.

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1989 XT6 - same set up at 1987+ fuel injected EA82s.

 

Fuses under dash are all good.

 

I'm still wondering why the ECU has no LED and the check engine light isn't on? That doesn't seem normal.

 

I'll swap igniter and disty tomorrow but have a suspicion it won't matter if those lights suggest something else. I don't think the igniter or disty can cause the ECU LED and check engine light not to work?

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Well I think you're on the right track with the CEL not coming on, must not be getting power to the ECU. 

You blew a fusible link. That just doesn't happen everyday. Didn't you blow another one not too long ago that killed your windows? I would be looking for something in common with both those incidents. Like maybe you've got a bad ignition switch that is grounding out. I would look at the harness plugs at the ignition switch in particular for a burnt connector killing power to the ECU, and the ignition relay too. But I'm pretty sure the ECU doesn't get power through the relay. Check grounds too. Massive resistance across multiple grounds could potentially overheat fusible links.

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I'll find the FSM wiring diagram and see where that light gets power from.

 

Right a fusible link doesn't just burn randomly. Goodnpint. You're right I did have one a little bit ago but the battery hold down had come loose, popped up and rubbed through the fusible link.

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Did you try plugging the check connectors together to see if that made a difference?

 

What you described about the engine revving and making a screech sure sounds like a distributor going wonky, but that doesn't really jive with the no CEL and fusible link.

 

I think I might really be looking at grounds.

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Green connectors changed nothing.

 

You may be onto something, since I got it the car has had intermittently working automatic seat belts and I think another intermittent electrical issue I'm not remembering. Always random and comes and goes nearly daily. Although I've seen so many disconnected and broken grounds on perfectly fine engines I can't picture how or which ground could be problematic.

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FSM will have a ground chart. All ignition and fuel control grounds are on the intake. On cars I have had trouble with, I ran a new heavy ground from there to the body, and made sure the battery ground to the body is solid. Pull off all you can find, scrape all paint and corrosion off, then reassemble with dielectric grease. 

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Crank angle sensor power voltage and it's supply pin at the ECU have only 0.5 volts. FSM says to replace ECU but that does nothing, I started another thread since I've narrowed it down some.

 

Maybe I should have kept it here but seemed helpful to be more specific.

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/164166-low-voltage-at-cas-and-ecu-pin-but-fsm-solution-doesnt-work/

Edited by idosubaru
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