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I'd like to install Dual brake calipers on the Rear via Hydraulic E brake


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1992 Subaru Loyale wagon FWD has cabled E-brake to the front wheels.

 

I'd like to install Dual brake calipers on the Rear for use with a Hydraulic E brake

 

Please offer a parts list of what would be needed. 

I suspect XT6 or GL-10 turbo parts, but there may be another maker out there that are compatible.

I currently have 4x140MM stock 13" rims but I am primed to go to 6-lug 15" wheels and rubber at any time.

 

I'd like to go hydro e-brake instead of cable for the rears.

 

Thoughts?  pro and con.

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not quite following?

 

You want 2 calipers at each rear wheel?

 

If you just want rear ebrakes, use nissan 240sx calipers on a set of GL-10 or XT turbo backing plates.  They are cable activated though.

 

If you want hydraulic, you are going to be fabbing that.....nothing stock exists.

 

Why do you want rear ebrake on a FWD car?  Tell me you aren't going to try to make a "drift car" out of a 92 loyale.

Edited by Gloyale
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I'm with G on this. If you're doing it for fun just to play around, ok, but you're in for a lot of work. If you actually want to make a drift car to compete with, I'm going to point out a few things to consider.

 

1) Horrible center of gravity for drifting.

2) It's going to be at least 100-200 lbs heavier in the rear than any other comparable drift car you may come up against.

3) You will have to custom fabricate an anti-sway bar for the rear. The stock one is not strong enough to cut the body roll down

     enough for safe drifting. See item #1.

4) You'll need to fabricate custom rear caliper plates. You'll need some engineering skills or someone with said skills to get the metal

     thickness correct and the alignment of the calipers to the rotor. Wrong thickness, things grenade. Wrong alignment, you burn up

     pads and warp rotors in short order. Upgrade to WRX rear brakes. EA82 factory components aren't going to hold up to the abuse. 

     Also in this category is welding. You'll need better than average welding skills or you're back to things grenading.

5) Rear suspension is too soft. You'll have to retrofit some coil overs to the rear to achieve the correct stiffness you'll need. See

     items #1 & #3.

6) You'll have to fab custom steel brake lines which will need to be properly secured. To do this, you're going to need a tubing bender

     and a flaring tool that will do both double flaring and ISO flaring then you'll need to practice (a lot) both kinds of flares. Run steel

     lines from the master back to the calipers and only use rubber brake hoses to connect the calipers using the shortest length

     possible. You could probably buy bulk steel lines from NAPA and make them work to avoid the flaring fun but you'd want to avoid

     having to use unions to join pieces. Just another place to fail.

7) You have to figure out where and how to mount the master and lever which will also require fabricating and is likely to be a bit more

     complicated due to lack of space under the car in the area where ideal mounting would be.

 

All that being said, it'll probably cost you at least a grand if you do it yourself and you're able to pillage parts at PnP or find cheap used parts for sale. I'm including everything I mentioned above plus the obvious parts and misc bits and pieces. Cut corners and

things will likely go horribly wrong when the thrashing begins.

 

Edit: What is it about this site that takes my perfectly typed response and moves lines around when I hit the 'Post' button making it look like a drunk monkey typed it!? lol

Edited by skishop69
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The Impreza would be a good starter car for a novice if you are actually wanting to compete but it'll still cost you near the same amount, though you'll have a much more stable platform to build on. You'll also need to take into account HP and engine mods to compete well. You have to start somewhere and like all motorsports, it's not cheap. Start small, spend what you can, learn, and when you can, spend more or step up to a 'better' car.

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