99 Legacy Wagon Anniversary Edition, binding on turns, trans?

[SubaRider]

Greetings,

 

We bought this car from an auction house.  99 Legacy Wagon Anniversary Edition, EJ-22 engine runs nice and quiet but powerful enoough.  Lovely paint and interior, was probably garaged most of its life. 

Problem was evident as I drove it home.  It's scarey to turn the car except at very low speed.  When I turn the wheel, something seems to bind up and buck, in a somewhat rythmic way.  The sharper the turn, the more it binds.  At 4 mph around a 90 degree turn as in a street intersection, it binds and lets go maybe twice per second.  I'm afraid to take a corner much faster for fear of breaking something.

 

The odometer says 73,000 miles.  The transmission shows that somebody has been inside.  There is silicone on the gasket and the filter is new.  I suspect it may have come from another car.  The transmission slips a bit tasking off.  I looked into replacing the transmission with a used one, but with the labor of doing the R&R, it seemed prudent to spend the money and have the tranny overhauled.  It's at the transmission shop now, but the mechanic doesn't want to start the overhaul until he understands what's causing the bucking/binding.  As you know, the front differential is part of the transmission.  He says there are 37 teeth on the ring gear.  My favorite mechanic says there are some with 37, 39, or 41 teeth.  It's important for the front and back wheels to turn at the same rate, so the ring and pinion gears muist be the right sizes.

 

So, questions:  Is this the likely cause of the problem, or is there another possible issue?

What was the original tooth count on the ring gear in the transmission that this car came with from the factory?

If the answer is not 37, then should I buy a used transmission?  How can I ensure the proper gear ratio if I buy a used one?

 

Many thanks for your thoughts and expertise.

 

 

 

 

[john in KY]

Problem is either torque bind or differential ratio mismatch. Sounds like the transmission could have been replaced. there should be a sticker on the bell housing that when deciphered, will tell what transmission now in the car. Having the current transmission rebuilt imo is the most expensive option. Used Subaru transmission aren't expensive. I have one from a 98 with well less than 100K miles on it and no one wants to pay even $100 for it. 

 

whatever the current front differential ratio is can be determined from that sticker. Have to inspect the rear. Thinking there is a cover that can be removed. Go from there. 

[idosubaru]

First - binding can be repaired without removing the transmission so I'd be repairing that rather than replacing or rebuilding the trans.

 

Install the FWD fuse immediately and tell us if the symptoms change.

 

From an auction and possibly swapped - I wouldn't depend on matching the trans gear ratio to the original. What if the rear diff was also swapped to match (or not) the front? Then comparing it like you said would be futile.

 

Let us know the results of the following:

 

1. Front diff (part of transmission) simply has to match the rear diff. Determine gear ratio of each one and compare. So match those two components, not the trans gear teeth to an original.

 

2. Mismatched wheels/tires will do the same. Make sure they're the same size.

 

3. Install the FWD fuse. If binding goes away then your clutch plates are bad. And you also have an additional nearly free repair option and a really inexpensive option to try before replacing the clutch plates.

 

4. Is your AT light flashing 16 times at start up? If so read your TCu codes and post them here.

 

5. If the clutch plates are bad - replace them. Pull off rear extension housing (trans does not need to come out), replace clutch pack, and grind grooves out of the drum.

 

6. If FWD fuse doesn't work then your Duty C solenoid needs replaced. (This often is noticed by the TCU and it'll indicate a trouble bybflashing the AT light 16 times at first start up). Replace Duty C solenoid, requires removing rear extension housing of trans but that'such easier than removing the trans.

[idosubaru]

If you need parts I'd say buy John's but I don't think 98 will work in the 99 Phase IIs, but you can verify that or:

Www.car-part.com

[SubaRider]

Many thanks. 

I've been reading posts about how unforgiving the car can be regarding tire circumference matching.

The tires are the same trade size, and they are the same mfg with similar wear. I was planning to replace them soon.

Is there a Rosetta Stone for deciphering the number on the sticker on the bell housing?

I am interested in returning the car to stock as closely as I can.  Therefore I am interested in the description of the original transmission, and its gear ratios of the front and rear differentials. 

I'll share your advise with the transmission shop guy.

I'll let  you know what we find out.

Thanks again.

[GeneralDisorder]

DO NOT overhaul the transmission. This never ends well because it's a very involved process and the skills to do it correctly just aren't out there. If the "mechanic" doesn't understand the torque bind, then he hasn't got the skills to rebuild this transmission. RUN.

 

Get a used transmission. They are plentiful and failure is uncommon. You will regret an "overhaul" mark my words.

 

GD

Edited September 10, 2017 by GeneralDisorder

[SubaRider]

Thanks you, General.

Duly noted.

I plan to go get the car in the morning, pull the FWD fuse and drive it home and order a replacement.

I understand the proper one is 4EAT TZ102Z1AAA.if the rear differential is stock, stamped with "T2."

 

Many thanks.

I'll post as the story plays out.

[GeneralDisorder]

You can use any 99 to about 04 transmission from a 4.11 equipped vehicle (non-Outback Legacy) except the Legacy GT. Those had the sport shift and I'm not certain of their compatibility.

 

GD

[SubaRider]

Update

The mechanic who referred me to the transmission shop said the guy has been working on Subaru transmissions for over 20 years but the guy is a bit conservative. Another Subaru owner said the guy had successfully overhauled a transmission for him as well. The number on the transmission matched the transmission type number on the plate riveted to the inside of the engine compartment. So I threw caution to the wind and told him to go ahead. He found the solenoid valve that controls the clutch for the rear wheel was stuck open, which explains why installing the 4WD fuse had no effect. He did a full overhaul. He also replaced the front axels. The car runs down the road pretty sweetly now. It shifts nicely, corners with good stability and no more thumping.

 

I’m getting just a little extra vibration from the engine at ~1,100 rpm. When decelerating, the vibration is from about 2,000 down to ~800 rpm. I’ve replaced the spark plugs, plug wires. That helped smooth it out and start easier, but the little vibration is still there. At idle, it’s very smooth. Two mechanics told me they didn’t know the cause and suggested I take it to a dealer for diagnosis. The dealer said it was the transmission mount. They wanted $550 to replace it. Special order part, yadayada. No thanks. I bought the mount over the counter from another dealer that day. It’s in and vibration is less but still there. It’s small enough that most people probably wouldn’t complain. But I want it to run right so it will last. I’ve ordered a set of front mounts for the motor.

 

I had another mechanic replace the timing belt, tensioner and water pump. He said he thinks the torque converter is out of balance. The transmission guy said he’ll replace it under warranty if I first exhaust other possibilities to prove it’s the problem. We’ll see what happens with new front mounts.