cnc Posted September 21, 2017 Share Posted September 21, 2017 I keep blowing the 25 amp fuse that runs the door locks. They work for a day or two and then quit. I fixed the driver door switch that sends the lock/unlock signals to the other doors and that works fine. I suspect the problem might be in the wires that span the gap between the driver door and the body, since those flex all the time. One of them may have shorted to ground. Any other ideas out there? That fuse also runs something else. Can't remember what, though. I can make a current measurement. cnc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee2 Posted September 21, 2017 Share Posted September 21, 2017 Probably the wires grounding out somewhere. If you can access them cover them with some split corrugated tubing to keep then out of contact with the body/frame. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skishop69 Posted September 21, 2017 Share Posted September 21, 2017 Is it blowing when you're using the door locks? If so, you could have a bad actuator. Unplug them one at a time for a few days each to see which one. If not, what Dee said. Most likely in the door, or the pass thru as you mentioned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted September 21, 2017 Share Posted September 21, 2017 should be a 20 amp not a 25 and according to FSM door lock is only thing on that circuit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cnc Posted September 24, 2017 Author Share Posted September 24, 2017 Thanks for the tips, guys. All seems to work perfectly until at some point, none of them work. I don't know when it's going bad. I do have a clamp-on DC ammeter, so I could conceivably test each one individually, to see where the big current draw is. Even simpler but not conclusive would be to just substitute an ammeter where the fuse goes and read it as I hit the lock switch. If I find that the total current is anywhere near the 20 or 25 amp fuse rating, then it's just a matter of time before it cooks off the fuse, anyway. I'll report back. Stay tuned. cnc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cnc Posted September 24, 2017 Author Share Posted September 24, 2017 Question: Are all of the door lock actuators the same? In looking at some info, it appears that they all use little DC motors to run a leadscrew or similar. They will burn out if left engaged for any period of time. The most likely scenario is that one or more just finally bit the dust. cnc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted September 24, 2017 Share Posted September 24, 2017 IIRC both front and rear pass side are the same Drivers side rear door is a mirror image of the others Front drivers is different. Not an actuator, it is actually the switch that activates the other 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skishop69 Posted September 24, 2017 Share Posted September 24, 2017 I would not use an inline ammeter unless you have one capable of measuring 25 amps. Unless specifically rated for high amperage, most meters on the market are rated at 10 amps. Use your clamp on at each actuator like you said above and if one of them is drawing significantly higher then the others, then you've most likely found your culprit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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