2002 Outback (scrap or fix) and compatibility between years

[jseabolt]

I've got a 2002 Subaru Outback sedan. 250,000+ miles. It was my wife's son's car (notice I didn't say step son) who he let someone borrow it who wrecked it. The car is still somewhat in my wife's name as the lien holder. She bought it for him but kept her name on the title as the lien holder so he wouldn't pawn it at one of those "Mafia" title loan places.

 

But getting his name off the title might be an issue. The DMV here in Tennessee can be hard to deal with. I don't want to have to go through a bunch of crap with the DMV over this car. It has been sitting on my property for over a year though. So I'm thinking about just junking the car instead of fixing it.

 

Cosmetically it needs:

 

Front bumper

DS fender

DS rear door

Quarterpanel is dented in as well but might be hammered out.

 

Mechanically it needs: 

 

CV joints

rear brake caliper, hose and pads (rear brakes are sticking)

 

Otherwise it runs fine.

 

Only issue that really concerns me with the engine. When I "retrieved" the car from the impound lot, initially the engine temperature was normal for 20 miles until I turned the AC on, then it started to run hot. I turned the AC off and got off the four lane and onto the old highway so I could drive at a slower pace (30 mph). Then it started to cool down.

 

When I got home, I discovered it was quite low on coolant. I put about a gallon of 50/50 in it and let the car idle in my driveway for about 30 minutes with the AC on and it never overheated. Since Subarus are known for head gasket issues, providing there are no leaks (none I saw anyway) is this an indication of a blown head gasket? I checked both the oil and coolant and they are not mixing. If the car was run low on coolant and it did overheat on him, then it surely has weakened the head gaskets and may have warped the heads.

 

I know if coolant spits out the exhaust that's a sure sign. I never saw any coolant or steam coming out the exhaust.

 

OK here's some questions. Would it be better to replace the body panels on this car with used ones or buy another Subaru with a good body that needs an engine or transmission?

 

What I want to know is what years will a 2002 I-6 engine and the transmission fit.

 

This guy says this car has a blown engine (I have no idea if this is a I-4 or an I-6):

 

https://tricities.craigslist.org/cto/d/1999-subaru-legacy/6294692793.html

 

This one is an Outback (so it has to be an I-6 automatic) and needs a transmission:

 

https://tricities.craigslist.org/cto/d/1998-subaru-legacy-for-parts/6313554233.html

 

But will a 2002 transmission fit a 1998 model? I do know that the transmission shifts OK.

 

I kind of doubt I could get enough body panels for less than $500. Where as I can get what appears to be a descent Outback wagon for $500 that needs a transmission.

 

Logic tells me to buy the white Outback wagon that doing a transmission swap would be much easier than an engine swap or body work. Plus if the sedan that needs an engine is an I-4, then I'd have to swap the computer, wiring harness and all and that might be a nightmare trying to get it to start or run right.

 

Also swapping transmissions from one car to another one eliminates the issue with the title. Sometimes cars are easier to fix than a piece of paper!

 

Please advise!

 

 

[idosubaru]

This one is an Outback (so it has to be an I-6 automatic) and needs a transmission:

Outback does not mean 6 cylinders - every year outback has 4 cylinder engines, they're by far the most common. 

Outbacks never had 6 cylinder engines before 2001 so all those ones listed have 4 cylinders and were never offered with 6.

"H6", not "I6", or just say 6 cylinder.   

 

For interchange: 

01-04 H6's are interchangeable and essentially the same engine.

 

Transmissions, there are three different transmissions in your year: 

1.  4 cylinder transmissions

2.  6 cylinder transmissions

3.  6 cylinder VDC transmissions

4.  the 4WD control changes in 2004-ish - the wiring is just backwards and can be easily worked around

 

Swapping between models is possible but largely unknown with not many documented feedbacks about exactly what works and when.

 

Engine - you can swap that 02 into just about anything if you move the engine and wiring harness with it.  You'd want to stay 2004 or earlier to avoid immobilizer issues. it'll be a tighter fit in pre 2000 vehicles and the cooling system/hoses are all different so you'd be modifying radiators or hoses to swap.

[idosubaru]

This one is an Outback (so it has to be an I-6 automatic) and needs a transmission:

 

https://tricities.craigslist.org/cto/d/1998-subaru-legacy-for-parts/6313554233.html

 

But will a 2002 transmission fit a 1998 model? I do know that the transmission shifts OK.

 

I kind of doubt I could get enough body panels for less than $500. !

 

2000+ transmissions are Phase II and electronically different from earlier Phase I's, on those grounds most people avoid swapping across Phases.  You could google using that "phase I....phase II" terminology with Subaru and transmission to find out more details and if anyone has tried it. 

 

That listed Outback is not a 6 cylinder, though they have it listed as one.  Subaru never sold a US 6 cylinder outback until 2001.

Used transmissions can be very inexpensive.  $150-$300 and you could part yours out for enough to cover that. 

www.car-part.com

 

Body panels are $50 - $300.  try searching here and see how close you can get to what you need: 

www.car-part.com

 

I have a black H6 sedan I'm sending to the scrap yard.  And traveling south isn't impossible for me as I lived in Georgia for 9 years and have friends down there and in TN. 

[1 Lucky Texan]

what are your local laws for abandoned vehicles?

 

anyway, seems like parting it out or junking it might be best.

[Rooster2]

In my opinion, the head gaskets may still be okay, as it doesn't appear that you drove the car when over heating, just extra hot.  I wonder why the car was low on coolant. Any sign of a coolant leak with hoses or radiator? Keep an eye on your drive way for any future evidence of additional coolant leak

 

Regarding the rear brakes "sticking," More then likely, the slide pins are sticking, so the pads are not releasing completely from the rotor, with your foot off the brake pedal. Unless, the pads are worn down to their metal back plate, the rotor should still be good. If the slide pins are sticking, squirt PB blaster at the pin to help removal. Use anti-seize to lube the pins upon reassembly.

 

Body parts should be available at reasonable cost at a yard or as mentioned at www.car-part.com, a nationwide network organization that wrecking yards subscribe to.

 

It sounds like this car is repairable, so I would not write it off.

 

Good luck to you.

[987687]

Actually 99+ transmissions are phase 2, they started in the last year of the 2nd gen legacy/outback.

[jseabolt]

Thanks guys. Sounds like using parts from my 02 on a 98 maybe more of an issue than I thought. So in other words if I want to do a "direct" engine or transmission swap, I'd be better off finding a 2001 to 2004 Outback with and H-6 engine and automatic?

 

I forgot to mention I contacted a guy on Craigsist with a Subaru Junkyard over in Western North Carolina (I live just 80 miles over the mountain in East Tennessee). Due to the mountainous terrain and poor road maintenance during the winter months, Subarus make up about half of cars in rural areas over there. I told him what I needed and he sent me a reply. He doesn't sound like he wants too much for the body panels.

 

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I'll post some photos of the car. I haven't taken any.

 

Hey,

For the 2002 outback I have everything your looking for to repair your vehicle. 

- front bumper with a few scratches but in decent working order, $40.

-ds fender, $40 have a bunch of colors to choose from.

-DS rear door complete with glass, regulators, etc, $60.

For the rear quarter panel you would have to cut and weld, honestly I would recommend just hammering it out.

 

I also wanted to add that we recycle Subarus so if you do end up scrapping it I can offer a little above scrap value with pickup of the car.

Thanks,

TJ

AMP

 

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[jseabolt]

what are your local laws for abandoned vehicles?

 

anyway, seems like parting it out or junking it might be best.

 

Someone told me as long as my wife's name is the lien holder, the car is technically still in her name and there shouldn't be a problem of getting to re-titled into my name.

 

There is a thing known as a mechanics lien. I think the car has to sit on someone's property for at least one year, paperwork applied for, etc.

 

Otherwise if I find a car without a title, it must be 30 years old before I can apply for a title.  That's one way around how I got my 1981 Trabant 601 I imported from Hungary. Never sold here to begin with, 2 stroker, makes 9 times the pollutants of a V8 SUV, body panels made of cotton and wool.

[jseabolt]

In my opinion, the head gaskets may still be okay, as it doesn't appear that you drove the car when over heating, just extra hot.  I wonder why the car was low on coolant. Any sign of a coolant leak with hoses or radiator? Keep an eye on your drive way for any future evidence of additional coolant leak

 

Regarding the rear brakes "sticking," More then likely, the slide pins are sticking, so the pads are not releasing completely from the rotor, with your foot off the brake pedal. Unless, the pads are worn down to their metal back plate, the rotor should still be good. If the slide pins are sticking, squirt PB blaster at the pin to help removal. Use anti-seize to lube the pins upon reassembly.

 

Body parts should be available at reasonable cost at a yard or as mentioned at www.car-part.com, a nationwide network organization that wrecking yards subscribe to.

 

It sounds like this car is repairable, so I would not write it off.

 

Good luck to you.

 

 

I figured he probably ignored the temperature guage, that's why I wondered if the car ever ran hot when he was driving it. He also let the brake fluid reservoir run low so the car barely has brakes. It took 2 to 3 times as long to stop the car as my Baja. Air has gotten into the system.

 

I actually put rear pads on this car. I was well aware that there was an issue with the rear caliper because one side was worn down and the other side was OK.

 

But didn't want to put any more money into the car. I figured the car would be totalled in about 2 months, long before the rear pads worn down again. Well it actually made it 8 months.

 

What's the best way to know if he head gaskets are bad?

 

My guess:

 

Check for external coolant leaks

Check for steam coming out the exhaust

Check for oil and coolant mixing.

 

The car seems to pass those three tests

 

I guess the next test is to buy or rent one of those tools that connects to radiator in place of the cap. Pressuring the system and let it sit overnight to see if it leaks down.

[Mike104]

Best option for head gaskets is an electronic CO sniffer.  They are expensive but most shops have access to one.  Other option is a chemical CO tester but it is not as accurate.  The SOHC H4 engines tended to have external oil/coolant leaks rather than exhaust gas leaks into the cooling system like the DOHC 2.5L engines

[Gloyale]

If this car has a H6, which I'm still not clear on....but if.....

 

they are not nearly as known for headgasket issues.  

 

Best (or worst) indicator is if the overflow resevior keeps filling up and overflowing.  If you see bubbles coming up in it for sure there is a headgasket leak.

[jseabolt]

I talked to the guy with the Subaru junkyard and he seems reasonable on body panels. I think he wanted $40 (each) for a front bumper and fender and $60 for the door including the glass. He also offered to buy the car. I haven't sent him any photos yet to see what he wants to offer me.