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Help! EJ18 to EJ22 swap, leftover electrical connections


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- Fixed -

I'm almost positive this has been discussed but after hours of searching the boards, I'm at a loss.

I swapped a 95 ej22 into a 95 ej18 car. These 2 electrical connections remain unattached and I'm uncertain if they were ever attached to anything. Any help would be appreciated.

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Fire it up and see what works or does not or what check engine lights come on.

 

Those wires look so short you should just swing them around to every point reachable over 360 degrees and see where it leads you.

 

You swapped just the long block - ie bolted the EJ18 manifold onto the EJ22?

 

Or you tried something like putting the EJ18 wiring harness in the EJ22 manifold?

 

Or you did a full conversion with EJ22 engine, ECU and wiring?

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Looks like "1" is rear O2 sensor and "2" is starter wire

Sure was. Thanks Gloyale!

It's a 1.8 manifold that matches the car on a 2.2 from a donor. Neither car/exhaust has a downstream 02 sensor so I guess that plug is obsolete???

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Ok. Everything is hooked up (as far as I can tell) and I'm getting a crank-no-start. It wasn't getting spark until we bolted down two brackets that held electrical connectors on the passenger side where the engine and trans mate up. Seems like an odd ground but I now have spark. Cam gears have the same number of teeth on the rear and I swapped out the cam sensor with no change. Didn't set the timing correctly, perhaps?

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Ok. Everything is hooked up (as far as I can tell) and I'm getting a crank-no-start. It wasn't getting spark until we bolted down two brackets that held electrical connectors on the passenger side where the engine and trans mate up. Seems like an odd ground but I now have spark. Cam gears have the same number of teeth on the rear and I swapped out the cam sensor with no change. Didn't set the timing correctly, perhaps?

 

did you use hashmarks or arrows to set the timing?

 

Should have been hashes, not arrows (arrows are for valve lash setting)

 

Also, the connector bracket should not be a grounding point.....can run without that bracket in theory.  I would inspect all the pins inside the connector, and wiggle them toghether really well and retest.

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I used the hash marks but I also installed an aftermarket crank pulley and I'm unsure if that could be set wrong. I too thought it was odd that the bracket grounded the harness. I'll revisit the timing also. Thanks!

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Check the crank timing gear - specifically look at the timing marks for the ECU's crank angle sensor to reference.  If these are different you'll have to swap the timing gears over.

 

Does the EJ18 run a cam sensor off the LH bank?  From memory the early EJ18's don't have a cam sensor, and I reckon one of those connections looks like a cam angle sensor wire (they're quite long!).

 

Cheers

Bennie

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I reset the timing and the engine started. I also found the loose wire in the plug the was keeping it from kicking on the fuel. I guess that needs a new plug spliced in.

New issue, the trans won't shift into gear with the engine running. Maybe the throwout bearing isn't reaching the pressure plate for some reason?? That seems a bit weird.

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I reset the timing and the engine started. I also found the loose wire in the plug the was keeping it from kicking on the fuel. I guess that needs a new plug spliced in.

New issue, the trans won't shift into gear with the engine running. Maybe the throwout bearing isn't reaching the pressure plate for some reason?? That seems a bit weird.

 

cable too loose.

 

Does the EJ18 run a cam sensor off the LH bank?  From memory the early EJ18's don't have a cam sensor, and I reckon one of those connections looks like a cam angle sensor wire (they're quite long!).

 

all of our USDM EJ engines got both Cam and crank sensors.

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GLoyale, I tightened the clutch cable adjustment to the max with no change. The pedal is very soft and doesn't feel like it's engaging.

 

Did you make sure to actually put a TO bearing in there?  

 

Other than that I'd check the condition of the clutch fork.  Have a helper depress the clutch pedal while you look down into the trans along the fork (pull back the fork boot).  Watch to make sure it's not cracked at the pivot.

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I feel like I'm probably missing something stupid but here's the layout...

The 2.2 came from a donor car that had an AT. The torque converter was removed and the clutch pack inatalled. That engine was then inatalled in the car that had a 1.8 and Manual trans. We never pulled the TO bearing off the trans shaft because we weren't replacing it. I apologize for making that sound more complicated than it is.

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Got the TB put back on in what looks like the correct manner. It seems like the TB isn't reaching the pressure plate. I've hit a wall.

What flywheel did you use?

 

Positive the friction disc is not upside down? (hard to do)

 

Inspect the clutch fork and pivot?  

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I'm seriously out of ideas and I'm sure I'm going to feel like a moron when the answer arises.... if one arises.

 

Edit: Confirmed - I feel like a moron....

Fixed: The cable was not installed correctly nor adjusted correctly before I bought the car and we left out the small plate between the flywheel and crankshaft when we installed the clutch. The clutch now seems to function as it should.

 

Thanks GLoyale for your patience!

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