Brake Fluid Leak Above Gas Tank Rear Passenger Side

[msmithmmx]

Hello.  I have a 98 OBW 252K and I live in the salt/rust belt.  Have a very generous brake fluid leak rear passanger side above the gas tank somewhere.  Is there a connector up there? There is not much room under the car with the gas tank in to start cutting brake line out.  I have at least an ounce of break fluid from just one night of sitting.  Within in the last 6 months I replaced all rubber brakes hoses I wonder if this accelerated this failure by boosting pressure.

 

It has been 10 years since porcupine73's issue.  Have any new repairs come to light for this issue since 08

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/81392-uh-oh-need-help-fixing-this-brake-line-leak-96-legacy/

 

[lmdew]

My brother in WI just had the same issue with his 97 Legacy Wagon.  He got some line from an auto parts store and just splice it in from the junction block on the passenger side.

 

It's the one up for sale.  While it fixed the brake leak, he does not want to sell it as a running car for someone.  So it's up for parts.

[msmithmmx]

It seems like this is a common failure point.  No one appears to have removed the gas tank to get at the exact failure area. There is no junction  that I can see from diagrams.  Must be an area that keeps in moisture and after 20 years it failed. I am not seeing any issue with properly rerunning lines.  What were your brothers concerns?

[987687]

You didn't boost the pressure, you did however jiggle a rusty brake line that was on the verge of breaking. I wouldn't drive a car with a leaky brake line, you're one panic stop away from not having brakes (and having a collision). The brake line that goes over the tank rusting out on 2nd gens is pretty common. The easy way to fix the problem is to flip up the back seat, you might have to pull back sound deadening, I can't remember, too. Under there you'll find the brake lines that go through a grommet in the body. Starting from that point, run a new line around the side of the tank and back to where it connects up with the rubber line, make sure it isn't rubbing on anything and you'll be fine. I guess you could pull the gas tank and get it in the stock location, but that's a silly amount of work.

 

When you're done make sure you clean the top of the gas tank off. There's an access hatch under the back seat to replace the fuel pump, you could remove that to hose the top of the tank off. Brake fluid eats paint and rusts metal, pretty bad combo for the top of a gas tank.

[idosubaru]

It’s actually relatively easy but annoying and “custom”

 

It’s 2 12 mm bolts to remove the rear seat and you’re at the access cover. Snake new line through, splice it in on both ends and you’re golden.

 

Not much to it just fiddling line in place and slicing.

 

I’ve even ran all the line, left the seats all apart and driven to a shop across the street from my office carefully with the ebrake and had them make the splices in situations where I’m helping someone for free but have limited time. Of course you shouldn’t drive without brakes and crappy rear ebrake at all. That’s crazy.

[Fairtax4me]

Just replaced the rear lines on my 96. Same failure, line rusted out and split right above the tank. Luckily I was only 20 miles from home (and in the dark) when it happened. Pesky deer...

 

I bought a roll of copper nickel line because the stuff works (bends) like butter. Replaced both lines because let's face it, one rusted out, how much loner is the other really gonna last? I cut the lines inside and flared the ends and attached the new lines inside above the floor pan. Much easier to work from above as well. The old lines I cut off what was easily removable and left the parts that weren't.

[msmithmmx]

Just replaced the rear lines on my 96. Same failure, line rusted out and split right above the tank. Luckily I was only 20 miles from home (and in the dark) when it happened. Pesky deer...

 

I bought a roll of copper nickel line because the stuff works (bends) like butter. Replaced both lines because let's face it, one rusted out, how much loner is the other really gonna last? I cut the lines inside and flared the ends and attached the new lines inside above the floor pan. Much easier to work from above as well. The old lines I cut off what was easily removable and left the parts that weren't.

Hello, with the seat pulled up I can see the break lines.  Which one is the driver side? Did you run the new driver side inside the car under the rear seat?

[idosubaru]

I ran the new line like the old one, not inside the vehcile, I’d be surprised if he ran it inside the car.

 

That is tricky determining which line is which.

If you jiggle it around once you start loosening it you can tell.

 

I bet theres a picture online somewhere or you can tell by Subarus explodes view parts diagrams?

[Fairtax4me]

I don't remember which was which off hand. I can check later and let you know.

I ran the new lines through the grommet just like the old lines were, but the new line for the drivers side I ran in front of the tank above the diff brace. Secured in a few places with zip ties.

[Numbchux]

This is pretty common. I've done it on a Legacy wagon, Outback wagon, and my XT6 in the last couple years, (and my Celica, although that's routed completely under the car, so I had to splice it in under the engine bay...).

 

I replace everything that is exposed. There's a junction block under the car, but that leaves about 6" of line before the block that's exposed. I cut it under the back seat (fairly easy on a wagon, just flip the seat forward, and there it is), flare new nuts onto the stock line, a couple unions and you're good to go.

 

2017-10-30_08-51-17 by Numbchux, on Flickr

 

The copper/nickel brake line is much easier to use and resistant to corrosion. But a 25' roll of it is fairly expensive. You'll have to decide whether the extra cost is worth it (I've heard the off-the-shelf steel line you buy is not nearly as robust as OE. Probably only get 5 years or so in the salt belt on it).

 

I highly recommend an inline flaring tool, like this one. I got mine at AutoZone, it's cheap and works awesome. Only downside is it will only work on 3/16" or the metric equivalent (4.75mm or something?).

 

Cut off the old stuff as much as you can, get creative with routing the new. Make sure it's mounted well so it can't rattle around, wrap a zip tie around the line and someplace on the body, then wrap a second zip-tie around the first to act as a spacer to keep the metal parts separated. Then tighten both.

 

Subarus use M10x1.0 fittings with an inverted flare.

[Gloyale]

I don't remember which was which off hand. I can check later and let you know.

I ran the new lines through the grommet just like the old lines were, but the new line for the drivers side I ran in front of the tank above the diff brace. Secured in a few places with zip ties.

 

yeah I did that with several rusty Wisconsin cars.

 

Run new lines between under seat jnction and the wheel.  No need to retrieve the old line or run it in exactly the same spot.  just make sure it's secure.

[msmithmmx]

Amazon had the copper/nickel brake line for 25 bucks. 5 star rating. Every one said it was easy to work with. All tools and materials order. Game on this weekend. I will list parts and post pictures. Thanks all

[msmithmmx]

Hello all.  I tried the double flare with the standard tool I picked off eBay.  I am not getting past step one.  I never really get the bubble flare.  Cant find that inline tool anywhere but off the internet.  Take a look..  what is wrong with my technique?  I even used two types of tubing same result. I am using 3/16 line.  I am inclined to think this is operator error and not machine error.

[heartless]

it does take practice - lots of it, and it is a 2 step process with most of the cheap, common flaring tools.. are you following the instructions completely?

 

setting the proper tubing height in the bar is important - use the flaring head that is appropriate for the size tubing you using to do so.. see figure 1 in this image..

 

http://www.waterbugdesign.com/pics/keypad/DoubleFlareDiag.jpg

[Fairtax4me]

Was gonna try to post some pics but the laptop isn't cooperating today.

 

But anyway, like heartless said make sure the line is sticking out through the bar the proper length. Take your die and put it on the bar next to the line, move the line so its level with the top edge of the die then clamp the bar down TIGHT so the line can't slip.

 

Stick the pin of the die into the line and put the press on top of the die making sure it's in the center. Turn until the die seats firmly against the bar.

Remove the die, put the cone of the press directly on the line, make sure it's in the center and turn until you feel the press get tight.

Sometimes it doesn't work out every time, but that's the nature of using an inexpensive flare tool. A couple times of practice and you'll end up with the correct shape flare.

 

REMEMBER to install the flare fitting on the line before you make the real flare!

Edited November 3, 2017 by Fairtax4me

[msmithmmx]

The job is done.  I made the perfect double flare many times over..  If you are doing this job you need this tool.  I picked mine up at Napa. As noted in another post above it is the Inline double flare model # 161A.  I will be posting more pictures.  I first tried the traditional tool and it would not work for me.

Edited November 4, 2017 by msmithmmx

[msmithmmx]

I have finished the job and have 20 miles on the car.  There is no more leaks and the brakes work perfect. I did go with the copper nickle tube and splurged for the stainless gravel guard. It is probably overkill but it is added security.  This tubing is very easy to work with but I still used the bending tool in a few locations. I left the old brake lines in place.  I did tie into the junction block located rear passenger side that connects the front feeder lines with the rear lines.  I was working on my back but there are 4 less double flares that I had to make.  I was able to disconnect the old lines easily with a 10 MM flare wrench.  I had to unmounts that block so I could move it around.  I also had to disconnect the mounting bracket for the emergency brake. Do yourself a favor and pick up  this flaring tool.  NAPA Flaring Tool #161A.  I watched the NAPA video on YouTube. After I cut the new lines I took a razor blade and chamfered the inner tube to knock off all sharp edges then I took a file and ran it across each end of the tube.  I tried using the standard tool you can rent.  Don't even bother unless your a pro and you know how to use it.  I picked up the 161A and created perfect double flares.  The pin broke on the 3/16 dye and it still worked perfect.  All that I planned on doing was swapping out a starter and that job morphed into this.

 

25 Ft. Roll / Coil of 3/16" Copper Nickel Brake Line Tubing Amazon  $26
Metric Brake Line Invert Flare Fittings for 3/16" Tube. 10 x 1 mm Amazon  $10.
NAPA Flaring Tool #161A  In Store $32
Stainless Brake Line Protector (Gravel Guard Spring) for 3/16" Tube - 16 Ft. Ebay  $18
1/8 3/16 1/4" Tube Bender Tubing Fuel Brake AC Refrigerant Line Bending Tool Ebay  $16
10 MM Flare Wrench.  This is a must.

Edited November 6, 2017 by msmithmmx

[idosubaru]

Good job. Flaring can be annoying.