2005 Outback -- rear window defroster not working

[freekraz]

Hello all,

 

The rear window defroster on my wife's 2005 Outback wagon has abruptly stopped working. The indicator light doesn't go on when you push the control button, and the defroster doesn't work.

 

I have gone through the fuses in the dash, but I can't identify which fuse controls the rear window defroster, and therefore can't tell if the fuse is blown.

 

We have had a history of a number of functions being screwed up due to abraded wires in the passenger side wiring harness that goes from the roof to the rear hatch. Have solved some of them with electrical tape. So I wouldn't be surprised if that's causing the current problem.

 

Would still like to diagnose the problem. Any suggestions?

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Jeff in Boston

[gbhrps]

freekraz,

 

You seem to have diagnosed your starting point for the solution. Pop the ends of the rubber gaiter out of the car body and the tailgate,

slide it to one end and properly solder new wire extensions, in of the same wire gauge, for any of the wires that are frayed or broken.

Use shrink tubing, as it won't allow for moisture to invade the solder joints and won't unravel like electrical tape will over time.

 

If that doesn't solve the issue, then you can start troubleshooting the feed lines, grounds, wire connections at the window grid, and the switch itself.

 

Good Luck!

[brus brother]

As gbhrps mentioned (and you have already experienced) the likely culprit is that flex point within that bundle of wires. In an earlier post, a member suggested inserting a length of new wire so that the solder joint is no longer in the flex area but before and after. I share your pain as I also have an 05 with recurring issues with that bundle of wires.

[freekraz]

Both good comments. But which fuse covers the rear window defogger????

 

TIA.

[heartless]

Both good comments. But which fuse covers the rear window defogger????

 

TIA.

 

on our 2006, the rear defroster fuse is in the main box under the hood, labeled as fuse 10 - there is also a relay for it in there. maybe check the main box on yours to verify..

[freekraz]

Hi everyone,

 

I have further diagnosed the situation, and the problem is the bundle of wires going from the roof to the hatch on the passenger side. They are REALLY MESSED UP at the flex point.

 

So, how to get access so I can splice in some repairs? I pulled off some trim on the hatch and the rear, dropped the headliner a little and...I'M STUCK! It seems the only way to get enough slack in the wires to repair them is to disconnect them at a junction that lies under the interior rear quarter trim on the side of the cargo area.

For the life of me I can't figure out how to get this piece of trim out. It seems very large and it seems to cover everything from the rear door opening to the tailgate opening. There is one exposed screw, and then I don't know.

Any suggestions you have on removing this piece of lower interior trim, so I can get to the junction on the bundle of wires, so I can disconnnect the bundle and move them a few inches to solder in some patches -- would be GREATLY APPRECIATED!!

As you know, this weekend is our first cold snap, too!

Thanks,

Jeff in Watertown, Mass.

 

[brus brother]

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/attachments/problems-maintenance/14955d1255045860-remove-rear-cargo-area-moulding-231372-rear-quarter-trim-60.pdf

check out diagram where it says wagon model

 

 

also some other tips, tools and tricks within these posts:

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/80-electrical-electronics/19618-third-brake-light-license-lights-out-most-time.html

 

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/20824-remove-rear-cargo-area-moulding.html

Edited November 12, 2017 by brus brother

[freekraz]

Thanks to all for the help. Here's the full report:

 

THANK YOU for the links to the diagrams for removing the trim. Couldn't have figured it out otherwise.

 

So, I spent about two hours Sunday and and hour today making the repairs.

 

With the rear quarter panel trim out of the way, I was able to disconnect
the wires cluster where it splits into three separate connectors, near
the taillamp. Then, I had enough slack to pull some extra wire to the
boot area. I also pulled extra slack from the door side. I dropped the
headliner, just in the rear, where three plastic clips hold it in place.
Then I could disconnect the lead to the luggage area lamp.

 

When I finally pulled up the lower part of the rubber boot, it was MUCH
WORSE than I had seen before. Of the 12 or so wires in the bundle, four
were broken, several had shorted out, others had brittle spots and
missing insulation. A real mess. I had to cut halfway through the boot
from the tailgate side to get extra access.

 

So, I
just got my soldering kit out and started soldering in sections of wire,
one end at a time, covering the connections with heat-shrink tubing. It
was kind of awkward but not terrible. I think there was only one wire
that I didn't have to make some repair to.

 

Today, I put all the wires back in place, put the trim back in place (only lost
one or two connectors in the process, and it looked fairly ship shape.
The two ends of the boot fit into place, and I put some electrical tape
around my cut, it really doesn't look too bad.

 

How'd I do? Rear window defroster: back on. Door locks. back on. Rear wiper
now parks itself properly, instead of stopping in the middle of the
glass.

 

The only thing that's not working are the
reversing lights. I checked the fuse (under the hood) and sadly it
wasn't blown. So I'll have to see if the wires, accessible through the
little popout panels in the tailgate trim, are getting juice. I don't
know if I could bear to take everything apart again if the wire to the
reversing lights got pulled off or otherwise screwed up when I was
pulling the wire bundle back into place.

 

Thanks again for your help, and the super-useful diagrams.

 

Jeff in Boston

[brus brother]

what gauge wire did you use?

[1 Lucky Texan]

sure those were working before? check the bulbs with an ohmmeter.

[freekraz]

In response to Brus, I just tried to match the gauge with what I had. There were a few thick wires, maybe 16 gauge, most were quite small, I used something that was larger than them but better bigger than smaller.

 

So, perhaps a bit of a hack job but I just wanted to get it done rather than get points for beauty.

 

To Texan, if I recall correctly, the backup lights were working correctly before I began the job. I will check the bulbs. Unfortunately, I checked the underhood fuse for the backup lights, and it was still good (darn!).

 

Thanks to all.

[brus brother]

Well sounds like you'll be going back in the water...

If you can identify the color of the wire for the reverse lights, remove the gaiter at both ends and tug on that color wire from either end of the boot. Since you said you cut and taped the boot, you might open that up as well to make sure the wire is intact and not frayed as you tug on it.

If the wire is intact, trace the wire from the bulb back to the easiest point of access of a connector before and after the bundle and check for continuity along the way. Could be one of your connections failed (mine did the first time) or it is one of the wires you didn't repair (yet).

Electricity is a linear event. 

Edited November 17, 2017 by brus brother