Jaysus Posted November 27, 2017 Author Share Posted November 27, 2017 ok so about to drop the engine back in .. Got compression in all 4 .. The motor I switched spoob to had solid lifters. Hopefilly that will quiet my car problems for the time being haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaysus Posted December 1, 2017 Author Share Posted December 1, 2017 Sooo it's cranking but won't start . Seems like it's killing the battery hella fast . The negative battery line that's grounded to the frame keeps smoking and the plastic on it is melting . What do I do now ? Pretty sure I got it on tdc.. carb is getting gas . Fuel pump seems to be working . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaysus Posted December 1, 2017 Author Share Posted December 1, 2017 Oh and now all my dash lights don't come on either . Great ha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted December 1, 2017 Share Posted December 1, 2017 That thin wire to the body should not be carrying current for the starter. There should be a heavy wire to the starter mounting bolt from the negative. Look for a bad connection. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaysus Posted December 1, 2017 Author Share Posted December 1, 2017 The started only has one big wire going to the + side of the battery. So there should be one to the - side as well?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted December 1, 2017 Share Posted December 1, 2017 I'm not 100% familiar with the ea81. But if the only wore on the negative of the battery is small, like number 10awg, that is not correct. There needs to be a thick one like the one that goes from the positive to the starter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaysus Posted December 1, 2017 Author Share Posted December 1, 2017 There's a thick wire that's grounded on the block next to the cylinder head . So I need an additional one from the battery - to the starter - ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted December 1, 2017 Share Posted December 1, 2017 I think it's supposed to go from the ngeative terminal of the battery to a ring terminal that's bolted on by the top starter bolt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted December 2, 2017 Share Posted December 2, 2017 The best way to provide a return path for the starting current would be a thick wire equal to the + one to one of the starter mounting bolts. Make sure the connections are clean, and the crimps are clean. A little grease smeared on them will keep them clean for years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaysus Posted December 2, 2017 Author Share Posted December 2, 2017 Ok so added the cable and it still wont start . And my throttle cable got cut in half in an unrelated incident . Sounds like it want to turn all the way over but just wont. fml Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted December 2, 2017 Share Posted December 2, 2017 give it a 1-2 second shot of carb cleaner in the throat. Then crank with gas part way down, like 1/3 throttle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaysus Posted December 2, 2017 Author Share Posted December 2, 2017 Still nothin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaysus Posted December 2, 2017 Author Share Posted December 2, 2017 so where should the #1 spark plug wire be if I'm standing directly in front of my car? In regards to a clock it's at like noon or 1 o'clock at the moment Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead Saloon Posted December 2, 2017 Share Posted December 2, 2017 1 oclock for no.1 Working anticlockwise 1-3-2-4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaysus Posted December 3, 2017 Author Share Posted December 3, 2017 only thing I can think is that I need a new distributor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted December 3, 2017 Share Posted December 3, 2017 sounds like not getting spark. pull the center wire off the distributor, place / arrange it so the contact on the wire is close to grounded metal, not near fuel. like 1/16 to 1/8 inch. Make sure it can't move, don't hold it. Have someone crank the engine while you watch for spark. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaysus Posted December 7, 2017 Author Share Posted December 7, 2017 Ok and what's next if it doesn't have spark? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted December 7, 2017 Share Posted December 7, 2017 Check for + voltage [to GND] on the + terminal of the coil, key in run position, and in cranking position. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaysus Posted December 7, 2017 Author Share Posted December 7, 2017 There's no spark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaysus Posted December 7, 2017 Author Share Posted December 7, 2017 (edited) Check for + voltage [to GND] on the + terminal of the coil, key in run position, and in cranking position. How do I do that? Edited December 7, 2017 by Jaysus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted December 7, 2017 Share Posted December 7, 2017 Voltmeter or test lamp. One lead to the coil + terminal, other to engine block. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaysus Posted December 8, 2017 Author Share Posted December 8, 2017 Goes in between 6.8 and 7.2 while keys in start position .. Jumps up to 18 to early 20s during cranking .. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted December 8, 2017 Share Posted December 8, 2017 That's odd.... I'd expect 10 to 12 in run, while not running. Something lower than 10 while cranking. Over 12 is very odd. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted December 8, 2017 Share Posted December 8, 2017 Are you measuring the spark plug terminal? Don't do that... You really shouldn't have anything much higher than battery voltage... The negative terminal actually will have some weird spiking on it. However it's a good one to check. You should see voltage on the negative terminal going between (nominally) ground and 12v with some high frequency ringing on the falling edge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaysus Posted December 9, 2017 Author Share Posted December 9, 2017 I was puting the red pointer thing in the + side of the coil and the black one on the engine block Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Please sign in to comment
You will be able to leave a comment after signing in
Sign In Now