03, U-joint part number?

[nickolai]

2003 Impreza Outback Sport

5 speed

I recently bought the car and it’s really fun to drive! Some noise coming from the rear end area above 30mph got me thinking I should look at the rear drive shaft universal joints and carrier bearing. With the drive shaft off there are definitely sticky spots in two of the joints.

Napa, O’Reillys, and the local Subaru dealer all told me a very similar tragic tale: The U-joints are not replaceable and have no part number, but I can buy a whole new drive shaft for 500+ dollars.

Not to be so easily discouraged, I removed one of the “non-removable” U-joints using a dremel and a steady hand, and took it to Napa and O’Reillys, neither of which could find a match in their stocked parts.

Has anyone dealt with this before and happen to know of a U-joint that will fit in the 03 Impreza Outback Sport drive shaft?

Thanks for any help!

[montana tom]

Go to rock auto, I know they offer a u joint kit for legacy outbacks or   buy a used driveline I paid $125.00 for one a few months ago.   EDIT; Just checked and for the impreza they only offer a replacement drive line  $358 + ship

Edited November 14, 2017 by montana tom

[1 Lucky Texan]

IF there were an old-school driveshaft shop, or, an automotive machine shop on Oahu or elsewhere, maybe you could get yours to them?

 

some drive shaft shops can un-stake joints and re-work the shaft.

Edited November 14, 2017 by 1 Lucky Texan

[msmithmmx]

These will fit the 98 OBW Neapco 1-0430 Rear Joint.  Everyone said it cant be done.   Maybe these will fit yours?  

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/141870-u-joint-replacement-anyone/

[fgf]

Check

http://rockforddriveline.com/catalog

specifically:

http://rockforddriveline.com/catalogs/11_Universal%20Joints_2012July.pdf

  see page 28

 

Determining factors are the bearing ODs and the spacing between the insides

of the yoke.

 

The inside surfaces of the U-joint yoke needs to be flat, parallel and centered

because this is where the retaining clips fit.

 

Some (e.g., 1995) yokes were unmachined, but I've had success carefully machining

the surfaces.  Key is to get the right spacing and to have it precisely centered on the

yoke's centerline...

[GeneralDisorder]

My driveline shop just welds on new yokes and balances it. Runs about $300 typically. Then you have all greasable, serviceable joints.

 

GD

[1 Lucky Texan]

I guess it comes down to services available on Kauai or within reasonable shipping distance?

 

you might call the NAPA place on Oahu and see if there's anything they can do for you or some shop they could recommend?

Edited November 14, 2017 by 1 Lucky Texan

[Fairtax4me]

These joints move less than 2° per revolution. The operating angle is very low, so there will be some sticky feeling in the joints. When you got the joint out was it dry inside or did it still have grease? If it still had grease in it the joint was fine.

 

Noise is probably a wheel bearing, but since you now have it apart, there's a very low chance the driveshaft will still be in proper balance when put back together.

 

A used driveshaft would be the cheapest option. Just the rear half is all you really need.

 

The new driveshafts on Rock auto can be hit or miss. They might be perfect or might wobble like crazy. I tried two of them on my 96 and ended up spending $450 on a new shaft from the dealer.