Bigcountry Posted November 15, 2017 Share Posted November 15, 2017 Hey all! Loving the group here. Just picked up an 1989 GL Wagon from my neighbor for $60... Sat for 9 years. Actually quite clean (but thats besides the point.) After scouring the forums here Ive pretty safely eliminated the fuel pump relay and other miscellaneous issues as my problem. Was able to show 12v (ish) at the harness to the fuel pump when cranking but the pump will not function. Therefore I am looking at replacement pumps! Anyone have any experience with this? http://www.jcwhitney.com/p3095726/sku-12288747.jcwx?TID=gglpla&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIn_K7mcrB1wIVSjwbCh3SNALtEAkYAiABEgJx1fD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds Its the Autobest F4323. Says it does not fit my specific application... but looks identical to the factory unit. Any help would be great! NO way am i dropping $150 plus on a pump for a $60 car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted November 17, 2017 Share Posted November 17, 2017 looks like junk. Doesn't give any specs for pressure or flow. I would look at it that you got the car so cheap, you can afford to spend more on reasonable quality parts not catalog crap. You didn't get a $60 car. You got a $1000 car for $60 bucks. I would say you've got $940 bucks worth of work you can justify. But do what you will. Put garbage parts in, you will have a garbage ride, and it will sit again for 9 years til it gets crushed. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted November 17, 2017 Share Posted November 17, 2017 If the body is rust free, and you plan on running it, you got an almost free car for the price of a fuel pump. A 30 year old car is going to need some parts now and then. Still cheaper than payments and taxes and collision on a new one. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subasaurus Posted November 17, 2017 Share Posted November 17, 2017 (edited) If the body is rust free, and you plan on running it, you got an almost free car for the price of a fuel pump. A 30 year old car is going to need some parts now and then. Still cheaper than payments and taxes and collision on a new one. Agree, either you pay the car around 100 bucks a month on parts and maintenance, sometimes more, sometimes no cost for that month (once the initial cost of getting it on the road is done ofcourse) and such or 400+ a month to someones pocket laughing at you at why you just bought an overpriced plastic disposable new car that will just disintegrate and fall apart in 8 years, not to mention as the days, mileage and such go by, it depreciates. you got yourself a decent well built vehicle, i personally love the EA82, just carry a spare set of timing belts with you in the hatch compartment with some basic tools, you'll need them when it decides to shoot one out in the middle of nowhere Edited November 17, 2017 by Subasaurus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subasaurus Posted November 17, 2017 Share Posted November 17, 2017 (edited) --plus i also bought a $60 dollar 1979GL Wagon back in 2015, http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/155288-rescued-1979-subaru-wagon-now-i-need-help/page-2 doesn't mean im gonna keep all parts and maintenance below 60dollars for the rest of its life (that would get interesting really quick) im probably around $1,300 on parts on it? not to mention all my free labor time i have in it including making parts for the dang thing since anything for it is non existant. Edited November 17, 2017 by Subasaurus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigcountry Posted November 17, 2017 Author Share Posted November 17, 2017 Thanks for the advice guys. Ended up getting the inline hige pressure pump from a F150 and fitting it. Now have fuel to the rail. Bad news is after cranking for a minute or so I had a backfire and then an actual fire under the driver side cylinder head.... Got it out quick but hell if I know what happened. and NO fuel was leaking. Double and triple checked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagons Posted November 17, 2017 Share Posted November 17, 2017 I'm assuming since it's a 1989 it's fuel injected. I bought a 1987 GL a few months ago for a 300 and I've put 900 more into it. I will second that if you payed $60, you have at minimum $600 worth of maintenance, that's only a $660 car, a steal for a Subaru that will run for another 10 years if maintained. So at 10 years of life, your payment is $5.50 a month after you put $660 into it. $600 can get you a fuel pump, timing kit, cam tower o rings and intake manifold gaskets, complete tune up, a CTS(trust me replace it), and alot of other stuff. Congrats on the find. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted November 17, 2017 Share Posted November 17, 2017 Are the exhaust gaskets and header y pipe sealed up? If you cranked that long, gas would be getting through by then, building up since it didn't fire. Then for some reason it did... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigcountry Posted November 18, 2017 Author Share Posted November 18, 2017 Are the exhaust gaskets and header y pipe sealed up? If you cranked that long, gas would be getting through by then, building up since it didn't fire. Then for some reason it did... After i put the fire out I quit for the night... But you make a very valid point there. Ill check first chance I get. Previous owner (My neighbor) Said that before he parked it he did the head gaskets. I haven't dug into the motor at all but I can see fresh intake gaskets and some newer parts under the hood... So maybe I should investigate a bit more. Also need to check timing. Any advice would be fantastic at this point. Y'all are certainly right... I have a decent budget to get the car roadworthy but I dont want to spend top dollar on parts if I dont have to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted November 18, 2017 Share Posted November 18, 2017 Would not hurt to verify timing, belts on correct, etc. Did it run after he worked on it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigcountry Posted November 18, 2017 Author Share Posted November 18, 2017 Would not hurt to verify timing, belts on correct, etc. Did it run after he worked on it? He said he was able to get it to run with starting fluid but couldn't get it to stay running... If you read up you'll see i diagnosed and replaced the pump (and a relay cause i started there.) My next step will be to go through the ignition electrical... plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil etc and check their condition. Then ill pull the fuel relay and check timing. Will also scope out the Exhaust manifold and gaskets for condition and to see if they are even hooked up... lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted November 18, 2017 Share Posted November 18, 2017 Might be worth checking the injector too. Maybe stuck open. Fuel pressure should be around 20PSI. Significantly more or less could cause trouble also. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparkyboy Posted November 18, 2017 Share Posted November 18, 2017 Any external fuel pump will work, i have a bunch from the junkyard for my 86 gl (ej22 swap). It's a universal one that i worm clamped to the factory bracket sideways, and just extended the rubber lines a bit. But i have a factory one that i carry just in case it fails and i need to do a quick switch, i can tell you this from my experience, whenever i see a gl or loyale at the junkyard, i take ten minutes to grab the fuel pump and every single one has worked. So i guess what i am trying to tell you is to just grab any damn pump you can rig up and carry a spare, and drive the hell out out of one of the coolest wagons made! Congrats on the great deal btw 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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