Power door lock relay sticking? (95' Legacy)

[Bushwick]

OK, I've had an intermittent drain that I think might be from the power door locks. While gutting the car's radio (everything was run through connectors; no hard wire connections) and then parking the car (until it snows), I noticed the next time trying to enter, the auto-lock/open via the actual key in the door lock wasn't working. Checked under dash fuse, and it was OK. Started checking fuses under the hood, and found a 15 amp blown. Replaced it, and locks started working again. Owner's manual for that fuse was no help (didn't point to door locks). So I'm thinking the fuse was for the door lock relay?

 

If the relay is/was sticking, would this most likely be a physical fault with the actual relay? If so, where exactly is it so I can test/replace?

[lmdew]

95 may be an aftermarket system.  Have you pulled the door panel to see?

 

You could pull the fuse when you park it and then see if the battery drain goes away.  That would isolate it to that system.

[Bushwick]

What's behind the door panel? The key once inserted in the door, will either lock-all or unlock. Pretty much the same thing the actual door lock nub switch does. When the fuse underhood was blown, all locks reverted to a manual-lock only.

[heartless]

95 may be an aftermarket system.  Have you pulled the door panel to see?

 

You could pull the fuse when you park it and then see if the battery drain goes away.  That would isolate it to that system.

 

He did say when using the physical key in the door lock - I doubt it is an aftermarket.

on the 95 i had, i could unlock drivers door only by turning the key to the "stop", or unlock all doors by twisting the key a bit further in the lock - past the initial "stop" point..

 

I would be investigating the battery drain - as noted, simply pulling that fuse when the car will be sitting for a bit could help isolate the issue.

 

looking at the wiring diagram, there is no relay, but a door lock timer, which is located behind the dash on the far right side (requires removal of the glove-box and some other stuff to get to it).

fuses listed are fuse #11 (20amp) in the fuse box inside (FB-7), and fuse #25 (15amp) in the main box under the hood (MB-9. Sounds like that is the one you had blown.

 

Note that the MB-9 also lists radio as one of the items it serves.. as well as several other items, any one of which could be causing the fuse to blow if there was an intermittent short

 

(ps: sorry for the 2 part page on the wiring diagram, but it was the only way I could make it large enough to be legible)

Edited December 4, 2017 by heartless

[Bushwick]

Thanks for the .img Heartless. Yeah, the 15amp fuse underhood was the one that went. I'll try and see if setting the locks it's causing power to stay "on" or maybe the door switch is sticking "on".