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brakes died again...


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So, I have barely 200 miles on my new front breaks, and they already constantly squeek. Rear brakes are metal to metal now, and the adjusters are seized. So now I have to pump the pedal 3 times to stop... again.... just like it was when I bought the car. I'm really getting sick of the brat, and needless to say, have now turned to driving my dad's car again. If anyone can tell me why my entire brake system seems to be hosed, please?

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I have never had problems with squeal on the EA81 front's. I do use the red anti-squeal compound on my pads tho. If the fronts alone were working properly you wouldn't have to pump the pedal. Sounds like a leak or something. Replace those rear cylinders and bleed the system well. Rear's will squeal when they are out of adjustment.....

 

GD

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If you haven't done so already, think about replacing the rear drums with disks. This should eliminate half of the potential cause for needing to pump up the pedal. After that, eliminate one cause at a time; you likely have more than one thing wrong and a leaky line or caliper is right up there as the culprit.

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if th4 brakes wont hold pressure and you are SURE you bled them right, suspect the master cylinder. like if you pump the brakes and it holds, just to not hold the next time and you nhave to pump them again.

 

bleeding soob brakes can be tricky, if the pedal still feels smongy after multiple bleeds may i suggest the "one man bleder kit" you can watch the air bubbles come out of the tube and into the bottle, and watch the fluid get clear as you run new through

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Guest taprackready
So, I have barely 200 miles on my new front breaks, and they already constantly squeek. Rear brakes are metal to metal now, and the adjusters are seized. So now I have to pump the pedal 3 times to stop... again.... just like it was when I bought the car. I'm really getting sick of the brat, and needless to say, have now turned to driving my dad's car again. If anyone can tell me why my entire brake system seems to be hosed, please?

I'm not sure but I'm guessing from your note that you replaced the front brake pads but not the rear shoes? For a halfway decent brake job your pretty much gonna have to have good brakes on front and back. On most of my cars I check the rear drum brakes and adjust accordingly at each oil change so they keep up with the front brakes.

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Yeah, I did the fronts, turned rooters, and new break shoes, along with replaced calipers cause my old ones were frozen and leaky. And Adjusted the rear brakes. I've never been able to get the pedal to be truely full responcive. It has always atleast sunk half way to the floor before the brakes actually start working. The master cylender holds pressure if I pump it several times and hold it there. But even after bleeding the master cylender, and all 4 breaks thourghly, the pedal sinks half way to the floor, if not more. Any other car I've driven, the breaks have instant pressure right at the top of the pedal travel. So I'm asumming somethings wrong majorly with this car, and I'm really not feeling safe in it anymore at this point. I put used breaks on one rear drum because it was metal to metal, just to hold me until pay day. And thats when I descovered my adjuster doesn't work. Then the rubber boot somewere in the process poped off one end of the caliper and leaked a bunch of fluid, hense why Now I'm back to pumping them, instead of just barely getting it to stop without pumping them. *sigh* Brakes are becomming my worst emeny on these cars.

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Guest taprackready

 

1. PROBLEM-The master cylender holds pressure if I pump it several times and hold it there. But even after bleeding the master cylender, and all 4 breaks thourghly, the pedal sinks half way to the floor, if not more.

 

FIX-NEW MASTER CYLINDER.

 

2. HUGE PROBLEM-I put used breaks on one rear drum because it was metal to metal, just to hold me until pay day.

 

FIX-Don't gamble with your life by putting used brake parts on you car and only fixing one side in the process anyway. New brake shoes.

 

3. PROBLEM-my adjuster doesn't work.

 

FIX-If you can't adjust the rear brakes then even the thickest monster shoes you can buy won't help. The rears have to be adjusted to work right. Buy new adjusters.

 

4. PROBLEM-Then the rubber boot somewere in the process poped off one end of the caliper and leaked a bunch of fluid, hense why Now I'm back to pumping them, instead of just barely getting it to stop without pumping them. *sigh* Brakes are becomming my worst emeny on these cars.

 

FIX-Don't be offended, poor brake repairs are currently your worst enemy, not Subaru cars. Even the best Euro or Jap car on the road needs maintenance on the braking system. This is not an area to go cheap on.

 

Go back through and systematically do a complete brake job. If that means a new Master cylinder then buy it. If it means new adjusters, buy them. If it means new calipers and or wheel cylinders, buy them. No bandaid will fix leaky, rusted solid adjusters, calipers, master cylinders.

 

Bill

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If it makes you feel any better my brakes are the same way :( About half way down the brakes start enguaging (real pressure at the pedal) and even then its still rather "soft" However the pedal does get very stiff twoards the bottom and it holds pressure. I still feel like there is an air bubble I just CANT get rid of! Maybe its in the hill holder? That's like the ONE thing I didnt bleed the piss out of

 

When you press down on the pedal HARD does the pedal get STIFF? Can you lock up the tires if you hit them hard enough? What matters the most is you can STOP when its MOST necessary therefore keeping yourself and others safe :)

 

As long as you HOLD pressure you are fine. If you hold the pedal and it slowly looses pressure you have a leak and a seriouse problem. Sounds like you have done lots of bleeding. Rear adjusters are key; I bet fixing those would help A LOT. Have a strong suspision that rear adjustors might be my problem. I think I'll just do a rear disc swap instead of dorking around with rear drums much.

 

Good luck and dont scrap her jsut yet!

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alright thanks guys, I'm doing the rear disc conversion, I don't want to deal with the manual adjusters, it's way to much work and servicing. I just don't get why Subaru's didn't have auto rear adjusters, because the old 65 chrysler I used to drive was auto adjust. And the subaru is alot newer. Oh well. Thanks for all the help.

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try the one man bleeder, you may have to do it a few times.

 

dont feel bad, i just bled 2 soobs today, and one is stilla bit spongey. it can be tricky sometimes, i will have to bleed them again, although the braking system is a known good one and i have sucessfully bled them before(i had to bleed because of a suspension swap this time)

 

the other car is fine doing the same procedure. one was drum, the other was disc. the drum brake is the one that is soft at this point.

 

i started with the passenger rear, driver front, driver rear, and passenger front, in that order. i didnt bleed the MC, but i will do that fist on my next attempt with the drum brake. but on both these cars i had all 4 brake lines disconnected at one point during the suspension swaps

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