Knucklehead Saloon Posted December 30, 2017 Share Posted December 30, 2017 Gday everyone. Like most folk new to soobies, my rattly rockers were driving me nuts. I know old EA81s run forever like that but I've always liked my motors to purr quietly instead of ticking their asses off. Sooooo... here's my trial and error method over the last couple of months with the motor still in the car. 1. Used diesel engine oil (10w 40) + bottle lifter tuneup + fresh oil filter every 1500 kms for 4500kms. Thats 3 changes. The engine got quieter and it was amazing how much black spooge came out with the old oil each change. The diesel oil contains more detergent additives than petrol oil and did the job well. The engine (200,000kms) got quieter over time as the lifters freed up but I still had some serious rocker noise. 2. Tried the factory setting method for hydraulic lifters and still got major ticking (too much wear in the lifters methinks). That was 4 turns in from seated, wait 15mins for bleed down, unscrew to zero lift, unscrew 1.5 turns. Bugger. 2. Tried the small block chevy method next. Screw in adjusters till zero clearance, screw in another 1/2 turn. Motor wouldn't fire as all valves were lifted off the seats. Bugger. 3. Had a brainwave over a couple of beers and did this (and it works like a charm). - Motor dead cold. - Screw in adjusters until zero lash. - Back off adjusters 1/4 turn. - Lock em down and reassemble rocker boxes. - Crack a beer and smile at your now much quieter EA81. Not exactly a textbook method but it works and the motor is quiet hot/cold and no missing or spitting from any valve leakage hot or cold. I did also try setting them with feeler gauges but no dice. The rocker to valve stem mating faces are worn in a concave shape making it impossible to get an accurate setting. Merry Xmas !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted December 30, 2017 Share Posted December 30, 2017 Well done. Try it up a mountain range on a hot day and see if need backing off a bit You got hydraulics? Subaru Australia reckon none came here in cars. As a result there is no listing for hydraulic tappets For my solids I got engine temp at half whipped covers off and set ins and outs at 4 thou. Worked for me 300,000 km on two engines Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead Saloon Posted December 30, 2017 Author Share Posted December 30, 2017 I got black rocker boxes and an engine marked ea81 with a rectangle cast around it. Thought that was hydro ? Anyhoo... they'll be fine on a hot day in the mountains. The gaps open up when hot, I can just hear the faintest tick hot that's not there cold. I took it out for major floggage today and no dramas (its 35c here today). As an aside I backed off the timing another 2 degrees from on the edge of ping with 98 octane cos its full blown summer now, ordered a richer primary idle jet to cure the off idle stumble and 1/8th throttle ping under load. Weather permitting, monday will be a full wash/ polish / degrease and a fakey alarm install. Going for a flashing red led hooked to a N/C relay. Comes on automatically when key off position. Will jack into the stereo acc on power wire to make it work and hide the relay behind the stereo console. Cheers mate ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 Hmmm I always thought the tappet gaps closed as the engine gets hotter due to the push rods expanding when hot... Anyway, if it works for you stick with it. I have one tappet that I just cannot adjust correctly. I can put up with one ticker Interesting about the pinging at light throttle under load. I've been trying to work out how to cure this in my mother inlaw's brumby. I haven't had it occur in my brumby - yet... Cheers Bennie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead Saloon Posted January 7, 2018 Author Share Posted January 7, 2018 The clearances close up in cast iron engines true.. however I believe the ally block / head combo grows taller than the (short) pushrods in the boxer engine. The 60 primary idle has alleviated the light throttle ping a fair bit. Its only noticeable now when the temp gauge climbs over 1/2 way on a real hot day. I wouldn't go any bigger than the 60 though. It made the idle mixture screw setting a lot more touchy to get right on the 32/36. I beleive there's an enriching circuit in there too that kicks in around 2500 to 3000 rpm (right where the problem is). Thats the next thing I'm going to investigate cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted January 7, 2018 Share Posted January 7, 2018 So you're running a weber carb? I'm still running factory on both our brumbys. I was going to ask how much shaft play you have in the throttle shaft of the carb. My theory is that the shaft or the mount wears out allowing air into the carb that leans the mixture out. I believe this is most noticeable at light throttle on inclines. If your temp gauge is going over half way there's and issue there. The Thermo fan(s) should kick in at the half mark (too hot for my liking). Since posting about mine not pinging, the other day when it was 30+ degrees it pinged under heavy throttle when pushing it up hills fully loaded with a loaded trailer in tow. Not too worried as this was to be expected in those conditions. Cheers Bennie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead Saloon Posted January 8, 2018 Author Share Posted January 8, 2018 Yeah I'm running a weber. My hitachi was stuffed after 26yrs. Mines had a cooling issue since day 1 too. The only thing I havnt replaced or modded is the radiator and it's next on my list. I've got a new rad for an auto car sitting in my shed. Will re-route the water pump bypass hose through the auto tranny oil section of the rad to make it a double pass setup. Also have a thermo switch for an alpha romeo thats the same thread pitch and kicks the thermos in 10C cooler. I'm quickly coming to the conclusion that the heated intake manifold is a super dumb design for aussie summers. The ping issue is def heat related..eg.. from 1/3rd up the gauge to just under 1/2 way no ping at all. Over that its ping city on a light throttle under load with higher temps meaning more ping. The last 3 days have been 43c 42c and 45c here (inland hunter valley nsw). I plan to build a new manifold when time permits, re-routing the coolant passages through a stand alone thermostat housing like the aeroplane guys run. I'll make it a tuned length too, tuned for 5500rpm with around 3 to 4L plenum volume. The rad I got off ebay cheap. Its a vaccum brazed tig welded ally job ex china. I'm generally not a fan of chinese parts but the metal fab on it looks really good. The fittings (bungs) are total spoob plastic crap and I'll replace those with some decent stainless or brass ones. Should be a good thing. Won't get to that job till feb though, got rego in 2 weeks so thats tying up the bucks for a bit. I'll take some pix and do a little writeup on the rad job for anyone interested and post it up here in the forum. Cheers, Richo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted January 8, 2018 Share Posted January 8, 2018 If it hasn't been removed, there's a little tap device near the alternator that manipulates the flow through the intake heating circuit. Both have been removed from ours as they were super brittle when the hoses were replaced. I didn't think to replace them with a new tap and run it as ON in winter and OFF in the summer months. This could be worth looking into. Also plumbing the smaller hose from the water pump through the auto fluid warming circuit wouldn't do much other than cool your heater circuit fluid. I don't think it would achieve much in the end. Cheers Bennie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted January 8, 2018 Share Posted January 8, 2018 dont waste ya time on fiddling with rad temp switches. I'll see if I can find a link for you on chi'bay. Under fifteen bucks for a little box like the watchdog TM2 or TM4 or the engine guard being flogged on telly. Once you work it out you set the temp the elctric fans come on and adjustable for how many degrees you want fans on. Currently set mine to wake up at 91C, turn fans on at 92 and back off at 91 or 90.9?. Could hold em on longer down to 85 or 86 but finding they cycle well like any modern car set up. Huh, if his auto trans cooler section springs a leak at least it will only be water mixing in with water :D I hate how most EA81 elec fans wait until 3/4 before coming on. I fitted a new tridon supposedly 10 C cooler. No flipping different Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted January 8, 2018 Share Posted January 8, 2018 (edited) This oughta do http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Professional-DC12V-10A-Aquarium-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat-LCD-Display-GT/172761985585?epid=22004532396&hash=item28396ab231:g:XDkAAOSwN2VZWjNi If you find others make sure has 12V coz the do house Volts too and this one ranges minus 40 C to 110 C Some go to 120 ? Others only 100 Been fitting them for years, adding a buzzer to the back. Fun to play with just in the breeze watching the tenths of a degree change as the wind changes Great place to stuff them is in that modesty panel above feet so her bits dont dangle about your feet Edited January 8, 2018 by jono Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subnz Posted January 8, 2018 Share Posted January 8, 2018 (edited) Never worried about tappet noise in an OHV with solid lifters (EA81) - That is part of what they are. Its more concerning not to hear (any reasonable within tolerance limits - not excessive ) tappet noise ie no valve tappet clearance gaps. Never touched / worried about tappets on present Brumby or 1st 83 Subaru EA81 wagon owned 26 years ago - no issues. Edited January 8, 2018 by subnz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted January 8, 2018 Share Posted January 8, 2018 True. There's correct tappet adjustment tapping and the tapping noise of tappers that are out of spec. If the impact surfaces are worn you'll never get them sorted with feeler gauges as directed in any good service manual - it comes down to trial and error by feeling for the gap. Anyone pulling the heads off: get the contact surface of the rocker arm checked to ensure they're smooth/flat across the curve of the contact face. If there's a groove in there get rid of it! Cheers Bennie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted January 8, 2018 Share Posted January 8, 2018 Never worried about tappet noise in an OHV with solid lifters (EA81) - That is part of what they are. Its more concerning not to hear (any reasonable within tolerance limits - not excessive ) tappet noise ie no valve tappet clearance gaps. Never touched / worried about tappets on present Brumby or 1st 83 Subaru EA81 wagon owned 26 years ago - no issues. Whats that you say?? Maybe it is tappets and valve bounce that is rude on the ears. EA82 with its OHC and Mizpah lifters is blissfully quiet Hey subnz, confirm NZ got carbed EJ in early 90's either as new or grey imports ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subnz Posted January 8, 2018 Share Posted January 8, 2018 (edited) Whats that you say?? Maybe it is tappets and valve bounce that is rude on the ears. EA82 with its OHC and Mizpah lifters is blissfully quiet Hey subnz, confirm NZ got carbed EJ in early 90's either as new or grey imports ?? Correct EA82 SOHC has hydraulic tappets - quieter running engine than EA81 OHV with solid lifters. Yep some early EJ18s came with carbs or SPFI - not good for fuel economy . Remember driving a 90 5MT TI Legacy 1.8 Wagon once and it struggled to do 30mpg (imperial) [ 9 litres / 100km] on a trip driving it at 100kph Hearing that (normal within tolerance limits) tappet noise on an EA81 is kind of reassuring - bomb proof simplicity / reliability Edited January 8, 2018 by subnz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted January 8, 2018 Share Posted January 8, 2018 So....do you ever find these not popular things kicking about New Zealand, EJ dizzys and carb intake manifolds? Be worth grabbing for export across the ditch - our ditch, not to the US I thought it was such an insult us exporting our backfire 4 Commodores to NZ but maybe the fuel economy was a big hit over there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted January 9, 2018 Share Posted January 9, 2018 EA82 with its OHC and Mizpah lifters is blissfully quiet That's because they're new lifters IIRC. EA82s are notorious for being noisy with their tap pets for a number of reasons. Their general design has me wanting to put an EA81 into an L series over keeping the EA82 if I keep a 1.8 in there. Yep some early EJ18s came with carbs or SPFI - not good for fuel economy Interesting. Never knew of SPFI on the EJs but anything is possible. Over here the EJ18 was/is MPFI but lacks a cam angle sensor compared to the EJ22 MPFI system. Cheers Bennie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead Saloon Posted January 9, 2018 Author Share Posted January 9, 2018 El_freddo: yeah I've already removed the (also super brittle) platic thermovalve you're talking about and blanked off both ends. Jono: cool device ! Does it come with a temp sensor? If not what are you using ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted January 9, 2018 Share Posted January 9, 2018 It comes...well actually all mine have..maybe check its listing and move onto one that does. I then found a pair of ring terminals more electrical than auto electrical. One size I drilled the ferrule out to 4 mm to take sensor, cut the ring off and that bit then jammed inside of ferrule of next size up eye, ring terminal that had a hole to suit M8 12mm head bolt of thermostat housing and that is where sensor is. One of them anyway. Got another on LPG converter to warn if it freezes over. Another is overheat alarm, or impending overheat. Also wanna stuff in an outside and inside set too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted January 9, 2018 Share Posted January 9, 2018 That listing suggests it posts from Darwin bit closer than China says includes sensor. Can I suggest you will want more than one once you tinker. Has nice little relay in it to switch more relays Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subnz Posted January 9, 2018 Share Posted January 9, 2018 (edited) So....do you ever find these not popular things kicking about New Zealand, EJ dizzys and carb intake manifolds? Be worth grabbing for export across the ditch - our ditch, not to the US I thought it was such an insult us exporting our backfire 4 Commodores to NZ but maybe the fuel economy was a big hit over there? Yeah we didn't take to heart too much the 4s got biffed and 186s the best Holden 6 got bolted in and the not as good 202 as well. Every thing else since not as good 173/202s not that great (agricultural compared to Japanese engines) - had one that seized for no reason - notorious for taking tops off pistons ( 3.8 V6 is a Buick engine - NOT Holden) The best Commodore 6 was the 87 VL with 2.0 and 3.0 Nissan 6s (fitted for unleaded fuel use), before Holden sourced the 3.8 Buick V6 ( 88/89) that would run on unleaded fuel. Not sure about later 3.6 V6s Was put off Holdens by my experience. Went Japanese 28 years ago with a 78 Toyota SE 2000 Corona then 6 Subarus since over the last 26 years. We had a 72 HQ 202 Holden from new - basic / agricultural at best - ran out of breath at 60 / 70 mph (100/110kph) Next car 74 Nissan 260C (2.6) much smoother refined better car, OHC alloy head freer flowing manifolds / exhaust system freer revving ( 6000rpm) would vapourise the Holden after 60mph - always had trouble holding at 60mph / 100kph always creeping up to 75mph / 120kph - had a really nice cammy burble exhaust note. Holden sounded like a truck. (holden quicker to 60mph - 100kph though) Anything is possible as we don't have a car assembly industry to protect , parts from ex JDM cars get imported, as well as complete cars , so its a case of Google searching importers / wreckers. Edited January 9, 2018 by subnz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted January 9, 2018 Share Posted January 9, 2018 Huh, my oldies had a 74 HQ 202 slushbox , drank petrol like a 351 with auto, PS and air You are so right about breathless at 110 kph, and wallow, would go through water pumps, tail pipes and rear shocks They went Japanese after 19 years in the Q , soon after mum got caught doin' 140 down the highway - too used to the breathless old Silver Anniversary. Abused the copper and swore my old man to secrecy importers rather than wreckers eh ? C;mon, some pics of EJ intakes and dizzys is now your muushon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted January 10, 2018 Share Posted January 10, 2018 Google image is your friend Jono... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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