Timing belt install: What's the secret?

[john in KY]

1995/2.2

 

Had to fix a leaking water pump and for the life of me, I can't get the timing belt back on. Almost goes on but can't get over the water pump pulley.  Hydraulic tensioner, new, retracted. How do I get a tad more slack in the belt? Temperature starting to fall again so calling it quits today.  

[montana tom]

The last place I install the belt is the pass. side upper idler . start the bolt well but leave it loose. This allows some slack, also the rt side cam is unloaded .I start with it just off from in time and allow it to roll the that last little bit into time as the belt slips over. Some folks leave the pass side lower idler off completely until they have the belt in place ...  never helped me but may help you. Be sure to tighten all idlers before releasing tensioner, roll crank around two complete revolutions by hand to check timing marks and your good to go.

[sparkyboy]

I put the lower passenger side idler on last.

That's how i did it on my 95 and it worked nicely for me.

Timing belts can sometimes be a huge pain in the azz, there is always some wacky trick that makes it go easy. I just did my m20 belt on my e30 and there is an extra wacky trick, there is a normal bolt and a stud on the tensioner for the cover.

If you switch those you can use a pry bar on the tensioner to get that last mm and the belt goes right on.

 

If i recall, i used the arrows instead of the lines on the ej22 because the cam wants to rotate on the passenger side. I think haha

At least you aren't screwing with a dohc :-)

Edited January 3, 2018 by sparkyboy

[Numbchux]

Factory recommendation is to leave the RH lower idler off, install the belt, and then install that idler. I do that, line up the marks on the top side of the belt then slip the belt between the cogged idler and water pump, then install the last idler.

 

I've had a couple fight me, and it seemed to help not to torque down the other pullies loose until the belt is on.

[sparkyboy]

It's funny that people have done this install leaving one of all three idlers off

This is why i love engines with timing gears :-D

Edited January 3, 2018 by sparkyboy

[idosubaru]

Factory recommendation is to leave the RH lower idler off, install the belt, and then install that idler. I do that, line up the marks on the top side of the belt then slip the belt between the cogged idler and water pump, then install the last idler.

 

I've had a couple fight me, and it seemed to help not to torque down the other pullies loose until the belt is on.

 

verbatim here on removing the RH pulley and leaving the others loose

[Fairtax4me]

Either have slack somewhere in the belt, or the belt teeth are not fully seated in the cam gears.

[john in KY]

Took all the above advice and the belt is on and the engine fired right up.  Too cold here to finish the job and tomorrow will be even colder. Debating whether or not to leave the covers off.  

 

As an aside, leave the water in your house dripping during this cold snap. We 2 nights ago had every faucet except the hot water in the kitchen dripping and guess which one froze.  Spent most of today with breaks to work on  the car thawing that puppy.

 

Thanks for all the advice. 

Edited January 4, 2018 by john in KY

[sparkyboy]

Good to hear man, you'll be fine without the covers if you prefer or if they are all torn up, my drivers side one isn't quite right but it's no biggie. There is a fiat or mg or some old euro sports car that has exposed dohc belts from the factory. Of course keep the extreme off roading in the water to a minimum haha!

[heartless]

if you do leave the covers off, try to stay out of deep snow... been there, done that before.. lol

doing the timing - again - in the cold = not fun..

 

I would at least put the center cover back on.. that would help prevent deep snow from packing up in there and causing the belt to jump like mine did. the only up side is 95 = non-interference, so not a huge deal if it does jump.