Is there any way to start an EJ25 without an ECU?

[trainergames]

I am asking because my car got flooded in the flooding in houston Texas and i i think my ECU is dead.

 

I don't think any water got in the engine,i just want to make sure it still works,so i know it is fixable.

 

Because i i know it will start i will do my best to keep it.

 

Money has been kinda tight and i have been having trouble finding a ECU nearby that i can afford.

 

The only one in my town is over an hour away by car(if i had one lol) and they want $120 for it...

[idosubaru]

Nah, you’re out of luck. But the engine should be fine. How long have you let it sit since being flooded? Is this from months ago or recently.

 

Take the ECU apart and let it dry out, preferably lay it in a bag of rice or desiccant

 

What year? I can mail you an ECU for $30 if it’s a 1996-1999 legacy/outback

 

Www.car-part.com

I’d its 2005 and up you’ll need the dealer to marry your new ECU to the vehicle, keys and FOBs. Roughly $100 for that service

[trainergames]

Nah, you’re out of luck. But the engine should be fine. How long have you let it sit since being flooded? Is this from months ago or recently.

 

Take the ECU apart and let it dry out, preferably lay it in a bag of rice or desiccant

 

What year? I can mail you an ECU for $30 if it’s a 1996-1999 legacy/outback

 

Www.car-part.com

I’d its 2005 and up you’ll need the dealer to marry your new ECU to the vehicle, keys and FOBs. Roughly $100 for that service

It is from months ago, it is from hurricane harvey.

 

It is a 2005 Impreza 2.5 RS(Auto Trans)

 

But will i still need to have the thing done if my key looks basic like this one?

 

https://db08le7w43ifw.cloudfront.net/partimage/ZIS/AM-945135772/eee0d0710a83441db6f09f65f4d53c6f_386.jpg

[idosubaru]

I'm unsure about impreza's - 2004's and earlier you can swap ECU's all day long like batteries and not think about it.  2005 I think starts the change, but sometimes impreza's lag and 2005 was an odd year in a few days.  a little googling or call to subaru should answer whether yours needs programmed or not. 

[wtdash]

Look in the Owner's manual for info on the key. If it's chipped you'll need it 'married', I believe.  Most key makers - which includes Home Depot, etc. - can check for 'chips'  (and they'll charge you a bunch more for a chipped key).

 

And considering there's always 'some' power to the ECU and it's mounted under the passenger's feet (correct?) it's likely fried.

 

P.s. You DID check your fusible link, correct?

Edited January 11, 2018 by wtdash

[Bushwick]

How high was the water line? Was it running at the time of the flood or was it parked?

 

If water got above the axles, it'd be wise to change all fluids out, including the rear diff.

 

With battery disconnected, I'd pull the carpet, seats, and kick panels, and ideally leave fans going for a couple days outside unless you can get some really hot dry heat (temp control garage, portable oil-filled radiant heater-no exposed element) and let that just evaporate all moisture on the wiring. Everything needs to be completely dry.

 

 

 

If it actually sucked water and stalled, it's probably trashed. If water DID seep into a non-running engine, it'll like have rust from the internal water level. Would be wise to pull plugs and check for cylinder wall rust (and water). 

[Fairtax4me]

If water got in the ECU, it got in the wire harness too and corrosion will eventually cause so many problems you'll wish you just got rid of it. It won't be reliable, and unless you pulled all the carpet out immediately to get it dry you'll have problems with rust in the floors and mold/mildew in the carpet, seats, and any area where moisture collected and wasn't drained/dried immediately after.

[idosubaru]

bolt a carburetor on it and forget the wiring.  lol

[Bushwick]

bolt a carburetor on it and forget the wiring.  lol

I was actually going to say the same thing earlier!  

[trainergames]

Look in the Owner's manual for info on the key. If it's chipped you'll need it 'married', I believe.  Most key makers - which includes Home Depot, etc. - can check for 'chips'  (and they'll charge you a bunch more for a chipped key).

 

And considering there's always 'some' power to the ECU and it's mounted under the passenger's feet (correct?) it's likely fried.

 

P.s. You DID check your fusible link, correct?

 

I chekc and my car has everything that came with the car new,other than the Owner's manual...

 

Where would the fusible link be located?

 

If it helps at all when it first happened the battery was dead and would not take a charge,i replaced it,and all the lights and stuff work,but when i go to start the car the only thing that happens is the light dim,but that is it.

 

How high was the water line? Was it running at the time of the flood or was it parked?

 

If water got above the axles, it'd be wise to change all fluids out, including the rear diff.

 

With battery disconnected, I'd pull the carpet, seats, and kick panels, and ideally leave fans going for a couple days outside unless you can get some really hot dry heat (temp control garage, portable oil-filled radiant heater-no exposed element) and let that just evaporate all moisture on the wiring. Everything needs to be completely dry.

 

 

 

If it actually sucked water and stalled, it's probably trashed. If water DID seep into a non-running engine, it'll like have rust from the internal water level. Would be wise to pull plugs and check for cylinder wall rust (and water). 

It was parked when it happened,and the water level got to half way up the speakers in the door.

 

I checked the oil and there was no water in it,and no water got in the air box either...

 

I have the carpet pulled up on the ECU side let it dry in the hot texas sun,and i have been keeping the windows down with it under a carport.

 

Also there is little to no mold on or under the carpet,most of the mold it has was on the seats and dash from water in the air at the time...

 

If water got in the ECU, it got in the wire harness too and corrosion will eventually cause so many problems you'll wish you just got rid of it. It won't be reliable, and unless you pulled all the carpet out immediately to get it dry you'll have problems with rust in the floors and mold/mildew in the carpet, seats, and any area where moisture collected and wasn't drained/dried immediately after.

 

Well i really want to at least try,because the my first car was "too far gone"and i to this day still regret selling it and not trying harder to fix it...

 

I pulled the carpet on the ECU side within 2 day of the flood,and it had aired out with the windows down in the Texas sun,and other than some mold on the seats and dash form the humidity,i have seen no signs of rust or mold on or under the carpets.

[idosubaru]

First you need good diagnosis some of which is easy and you’re skipping over.

 

***If the car won’t turn over then this has nothing to do with the ECU.***

 

The starter needs 12 volts and a signal for the solenoid to turn the engine over - and a security system that’s hapoy - that’s it. So it’s just missing 12 volts ***at the starter*** or the solenoid signal if everything is “dim”.

 

12 volts at the battery is meaningless if the starter or rest of the car doesn’t see that 12 volts.

 

1. Check voltage of battery and report here

2. Check voltage at the starter. Takes 30 seconds, really easy. Negative lead on negative battery terminal and positive lead on main starter bolt.

Report that voltage here.

3. Check main relay in engine compartment and all relays.

4. May need to check into security system issues if it’s been flooded then it may lock the car. All the older security modules used to be located by the drivers side left foot area and was likely flooded.

5. Once the car is getting 12 volts and the dash lights are coming on and engine is turning over - turn the key off then ON (but not to start) and listen carefully immediately afterwards. You should hear some light noise from the fuel pump priming for two seconds. If not then your pump isn’t getting power.

[Numbchux]

but when i go to start the car the only thing that happens is the light dim,but that is it.

 

This means you have bigger issues than the ECU. Even without the ECU it should crank over.

 

First thing I would do is put a socket (22mm, IIRC) on the crank and see if you can rotate the engine by hand. Rule out seized or hydrolocked. Then check for power getting to the starter (the heavy wire to the stud on the starter should always be hot, small wire on the spade should be hot with the key in "start"). If it's getting power, it's probably the starter, if it doesn't it's electrical (security system, ignition switch, neutral switch, wiring etc.)

 

 

And I would definitely agree that it needs all fluids, rear diff, transmission/front diff (separate fluids if it's an auto), and oil at the very least.

 

My dad and I resurrected a flood car many years ago. '94 Legacy, had water partway up the doors, well over the hubs. We had a parts car, so we swapped the carpet, door cards, and seats. We stripped that stuff out, pulled the ECU and ABS unit out and apart and let them dry in the sun for a few days, changed all the fluids, repacked the wheel bearings, and drove it for another 100k miles (had about 260k on it when we parted it out, then I put the engine in a '96 Outback which got at least another 20k before it was sold). We never had mystery electrical gremlins or anything. Of course a '94 has a lot less electronics than an '05, but I'd think it'd be worth a shot.

[Fairtax4me]

bolt a carburetor on it and forget the wiring. lol

Still won't have spark.

 

Funny you mention it though, They actually had carburetted EJs with distributors in some other countries. Mostly older stuff, but I think places in South America had carbs until the late 2000s. There are some pics of them in the "Strange Subru Stuff" thread in off-topic.

[Boxer Medic]

Good place to start.