Ubatz Posted January 13, 2018 Share Posted January 13, 2018 (edited) I recently replaced an idle air control valve and the check engine light is still on and the idle is still rough. Do I need to reset the ecu? Or do I have a faulty wire? I'm a bit unsure because normally I've never had to reset the ecu. Edited January 13, 2018 by Ubatz 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boxer Medic Posted January 13, 2018 Share Posted January 13, 2018 What is the code? Eg. Circuit fault or position error? Check power and ground at sensor. I'm still learning Subaru's, I know the GM linear egr valves must have the battery disconnected for the computer to set the new normal closed valve voltage. Would not hurt anything and, best of all, its free and easy. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ubatz Posted January 13, 2018 Author Share Posted January 13, 2018 What is the code? Eg. Circuit fault or position error? Check power and ground at sensor. I'm still learning Subaru's, I know the GM linear egr valves must have the battery disconnected for the computer to set the new normal closed valve voltage. Would not hurt anything and, best of all, its free and easy. It's a code 24. Two long flashes and 4 short ones. the iacv is seperate from the throttle body etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boxer Medic Posted January 13, 2018 Share Posted January 13, 2018 There are three or four different code 24 definitions based on year of vehicle. Try disconnecting battery for a minute or two. It *may* fix the problem, if that does not work I would focus on verifying the wiring to the IAC. Check for power and make sure the ground is less then 100 millivolts with the circuit powered up, key on engine off or running. There is a chance the air passages are physically restricted also. What year, model and engine is your car. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ubatz Posted January 13, 2018 Author Share Posted January 13, 2018 There are three or four different code 24 definitions based on year of vehicle. Try disconnecting battery for a minute or two. It *may* fix the problem, if that does not work I would focus on verifying the wiring to the IAC. Check for power and make sure the ground is less then 100 millivolts with the circuit powered up, key on engine off or running. There is a chance the air passages are physically restricted also. What year, model and engine is your car. It's a 1991 Legacy with the NA ej22 and an auto transmission. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boxer Medic Posted January 13, 2018 Share Posted January 13, 2018 (edited) According to http://www.troublecodes.net/subaru/ that code 24 under 1988 and later it says faulty IAC valve or circuit. Since it is a new IAC that leave's the fault in the electronic circuit. Here is a list of videos that show how to test IAC circuits: Edited January 13, 2018 by Boxer Medic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ubatz Posted January 13, 2018 Author Share Posted January 13, 2018 According to http://www.troublecodes.net/subaru/ that code 24 under 1988 and later it says faulty IAC valve or circuit. Since it is a new IAC that leave's the fault in the electronic circuit. Here is a list of videos that show how to test IAC circuits: Thanks! I kinda get an idea from those. I'm gonna try to let the engine warm up and go for a short drive. and if it doesn't change I'll test power ground and the sensor wire [three wire system] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boxer Medic Posted January 13, 2018 Share Posted January 13, 2018 Yeah, its hard to fully grasp initially, for me anyway but he does a good job of explaining and showing the how to test and troubleshoot. Let's see how the drive turns out. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ubatz Posted January 14, 2018 Author Share Posted January 14, 2018 Yeah, its hard to fully grasp initially, for me anyway but he does a good job of explaining and showing the how to test and troubleshoot. Let's see how the drive turns out. Yeah, I don't have the tools that he has. So I'll use a voltage meter if I have to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ubatz Posted January 14, 2018 Author Share Posted January 14, 2018 Clearing the code and resetting the ECU again has made it slightly better but the issu still exists so I need to check the wires. I'm hoping it's a bad ground cause that's probably the easiest to fix honestly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boxer Medic Posted January 14, 2018 Share Posted January 14, 2018 Voltmeter works great. Could be something simple like this... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtdash Posted January 15, 2018 Share Posted January 15, 2018 Take a real close look @ those wires where they go into the IAC connector- the actual harness wires.....on a 27 year 'young' vehicle they may be frayed, cracked, etc. There's another post on here (or online) showing that issue. This is for a TPS but same idea: 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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