Clutch pedal stuck to floor, not disengaging

[BB's93LegacyL]

2008 Impreza 2.5i MT, 98K miles. This morning I went out to start the car, and my foot couldn't find the clutch pedal.  The clutch pedal was down to the floor. When I parked it yesterday, I depressed the clutch to put the car in 1st gear, and shut it off. I'm thinking the pedal stayed that way until this morning. I started it in gear while holding the clutch in, but the engine was under load, so I knew the clutch was not fully disengaged. It started OK in neutral, and I manually lifted the clutch pedal and it popped back into position. With the engine running, it won't shift into any gear. 

I removed the reservoir cap, and the fluid is still near the full mark. 

Free play in the pedal is over an inch as best I can tell. That is too much isn't it? The pedal feel is softer than I recall, like if there is air in the system. Sometimes when I am testing the pedal movement the pedal binds when I lift my foot off, and then pops up to the normal position

 

Reading through the forum, I'm seeing mention of a cracked release fork. Does a slave cylinder failure cause these symptoms?

I had noticed in the past few weeks that I had to have the clutch fully depressed to the floor when shifting gears or the gears would make light contact. I thought it was maybe just the fact that I was not feeling the clutch travel while wearing heavy winter boots. There was never any sign of clutch slipping while accelerating.

At the start of winter I thought I was hearing a slight rasping sound when the engine was running and the clutch pedal was pressed down with a cold engine and car sitting still.

It may be that this has been a progressive failure, but it seemed odd that it drove OK yesterday, and today it won't shift into gear at all, even once it's warmed up to low idle.

Even if I need major clutch repair I'd still like to know where to look at the visible external components for signs of trouble. Is there a way I can inspect the slave cylinder for proper functioning?

 

Thanks for your thoughts on this.

 

[golucky66]

It's likely going to be a bad clutch master cylinder or slave (I typically just replace both together)

 

The issue of having the push the clutch pedal down further and further, could be a cracked clutch fork. But likely the master.

[BB's93LegacyL]

Ok, in the past few hours I've been searching the web for info and videos about this type of failure. Now that I have better light, when I look at the slave cylinder, the plunger is not even contacting the part that the plunger pushes against. I don't see fluid on the plunger or anywhere on the slave cylinder where the line attaches. There is fluid on the line that runs from the slave cylinder to where the line attaches at the bracket on the firewall. There is no fluid on the small line between the firewall bracket and the master cylinder. Is it likely that the line has cracked, or is it more likely to be the connection at the firewall bracket that is leaking? Can this line be replaced without taking off the airbox? Access is pretty tight. I can see everything but I don't know if tools will fit in there.

 

Thanks again.

[golucky66]

Is the fluid level low? You could try bleeding any air that might be in the line. But if you have a leak, it'll need to be replaced.

 

As for what needs to be removed, I'm not exactly sure. Depend some design and shape of the air ducting.

[OR'sLonewolf]

I didn't read the above so see if it was mentioned, but.........check your clutch fluid level.....bleed and put in new.  If not that, then your master need replacing. 

[impostor]

I've had several cars towed to the shop with a broken fork. Slide the boot up and check where the fork rides on the pivot ball.

[BB's93LegacyL]

Yes, it is a broken release fork (part no. 30531AA220). The hose was leaking at one of the end crimps, but removing the boot showed the broken release fork. Here's a photo of what it looks like. The car has nearly 99K miles, so a timing belt is due, and I'm thinking I may want to have head gaskets done as long as the engine is out for the clutch repair. I'm wondering how much is to be saved by doing all 3 of these jobs at one time vs. separate visits to the shop. What are your guesses on total cost of all 3 jobs together? Thanks.