2006 Outback, burning oil

[cyoung]

Hello all, new to the forum here, so I appreciate the professional advice!

 

Here is my issue...2006, 2.5l base, 185,000 miles, burning oil (goes from high on dipstick to low in 500 miles, at least 1.5 qts.) Recently had head gaskets done, timing components, pcv valve, and water pump. I bought this car with about 176,000 miles, so I really dont have much history with it.

 

After a recent trip to the same mechanic who did the above repairs, without tearing anything down extensively, they priced 2 options (reputable shop, but not a Subaru dealer.) option 1, re-ring and hone job, $2,700. option 2, used engine with 50k miles, $6,300.

 

So I like the car because of the safety aspect (our 16 yr old drives it) and the 4wd. It is in great condition, so I plan on keeping it. The $6k option seems steep to me, so I am looking for suggestions on how I should proceed from this point. Would it be wise or not, to take it to the local dealer for inspection (they are rated very well and spoken highly of in the area)?

 

I am not opposed to putting in an engine, but I have to believe that there are some other avenues for cheaper ones.

 

I am mechanically inclined, but not a car mechanic, so I appreciate your input!

 

 

[impostor]

Option 1 will likely take care of it, hone probably not needed. Option 2 is a complete toss up.

[heartless]

is it actually burning the oil, or is it leaking?

 

Subaru's are famous for "marking their territory" (ie: leaking oil) from a variety of different places.

 

If it were my car, I would be cleaning up the engine as best I could, and verifying it was not leaking anywhere before I even begin to entertain swapping the engine out, or anything else remotely expensive.

[1 Lucky Texan]

^^^ def check for leaks. Oil filter adapters, oil pressure sensor, cam/crank seals, etc.

 

if the plugs aren't carbon-ing up and the car runs well - $3000 will buy a lot of oil.

 

but, I can understand wanting to ameliorate the problem. Some folks have used marvel mystery oil or other treatments to free-up the oil control rings. Or, experiment with a high mileage oil or heavier viscosity oil?

 

but, option 2 could get you an engine with half the miles of the present one. LKQ and car-part.com might have some good prices. maybe even try a different shop for the swap?

[GeneralDisorder]

First - what brand of PCV valve was used? Needs to be dealer only. If it isnt thats your problem.

 

Otherwise......

 

Needs rings. DO NOT hone the cylinders. Whoever sold you the HG job should have suggested the rings be replaced. We ALWAYS give this option especially if there is high mileage and unknown history involved. Its about an extra 5-6 hours to the HG job. Should have only added about $750 to the cost.

 

Bottom line you arent taking it to experts in THIS engine. They are clueless and likely using sub standard parts and procedures that aren't going to work. ANY shop that suggests honing without complete tear down.... RUN. The only proper way to do that is to bore it oversized and that isnt happening for the price you were quoted.

 

There's an option 3. Dealer remanufactured short block. 3yr/36k warranty through Subaru. Should cost about $5k installed.

 

See what I mean about the place you're taking it? They don't even know this exists.

 

GD

Edited March 7, 2018 by GeneralDisorder

[idosubaru]

Temporarily try thicker oil?

 

Used engines are routinely installed for $2,000-$3,000 installed with new timing gear.

Price used engines here: www.car-part.com

Ask before purchase about warranty - you’ll have 3-6 month warranty to verify oil consumption.

 

JDM engines are $1,000-$2,000. Maybe even an inexpensive 2.0. I just did a new gen H6 for $1,700 and H6 trans for pocket change like $600 shipped to my door. Install would have cost $500-$1,000 if I didn’t do it.

 

why were the headgaskets replaced? If they were leaking oil so bad they needed replaced and now you still have a massive oil leak as well that means it was needing even more oil per 500 miles before the job. Was it leaking 2+ quarts per 500 miles before the repair?

Edited March 7, 2018 by idosubaru

[cyoung]

As far as leaking oil, the engine area is dry and no evidence of oil at any location. I do recall the mechanic stating that, and I do trust them for that, additionally I have looked for quite some time myself. The option of a used engine seems iffy to me because I don't want to go through another HG repair...not knowing the engine repair history. I thought about something like Marvel, but not sure how to approach it in a flat engine. I am leaning towards GeneralDisorders suggestion of a ring job or short block... just need to find a qualified shop. What are the thoughts on taking it to a dealer for their opinion?

[idosubaru]

Dealer - If the short block is warranted to 3 years/36k then that’s three times the warranty of a typical repair/shop so that might be your ticket. Their quotes are typically high and often don’t resurface the heads or may want to charge a full head rebuild $$$$ to maintain warranty.

 

Might as well just get new rings if you’re game for that expense.

[idosubaru]

If there were no oil leaks, it didn’t solve your issue, then you basically paid for a $2,000 hesdgasket repair for no reason?

[1 Lucky Texan]

it does seem lke there's a consensus about maybe finding a different shop - start a new thread here asking for a recommendation. maybe someone near your city knows a soob-friendly mechanic.

 

try that over at suabruoutback.org too.

[GeneralDisorder]

Replace the PCV valve with a dealer part FIRST. I just had another shop put in an Autozone PCV valve and this resulted in all the oil being consumed in 600 miles and rod knock ensued.

 

GD

[1 Lucky Texan]

^^^ gah !

[cyoung]

Thank you for all of the helpful info.  Going to replace the pcv valve with a Subaru one first...but in the meantime, starting a new thread for recommendation on mechanic in the area.  Thanks again, will post here once resolved.