MWLoyale Posted March 28, 2018 Share Posted March 28, 2018 I have a 1996 Outback MT that slips out of third and fourth gear. I saw a local posting for a 2000 2.5 RS being parted out. According to this transmission chart, http://www.northursalia.com/techdocs/trannychart/trannychart.html, the transmission has matching gears and differential. Has anyone done this/can anyone confirm this to work? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted March 28, 2018 Share Posted March 28, 2018 It'll swap in. Just make sure the front and rear diff ratios are matched. Also if able to reference factory workshop manual I'd be checking the speedo drive gear tooth count to ensure they match. Cheers Bennie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MWLoyale Posted March 28, 2018 Author Share Posted March 28, 2018 The front differential is a part of the transmission, no? And how do I find out the front differential ratio? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted March 28, 2018 Share Posted March 28, 2018 2000 trans is slightly different length. Your shifter may not bolt up properly. It's only about a 3/4" difference so might be okay. You will also need to swap clutch forks, and move the pivot ball before you do (cable clutch vs. Hydro) You'll need to remove the electronic VSS and then install the speedo cable. FWIW, your trans can likely be repaired. Likely the large bearing at the rear of the input shaft is worn. <$200 in parts and doable by a competent mechanic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted March 28, 2018 Share Posted March 28, 2018 Just replace the rear input shaft bearing in your existing transmission. It's a $65 part. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted March 29, 2018 Share Posted March 29, 2018 This bearing, is it a common issue for the Gen3 manuals as well? CheersBennie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted March 29, 2018 Share Posted March 29, 2018 This bearing, is it a common issue for the Gen3 manuals as well? Cheers Bennie you mean EA82 cars? or 3rd gen legacies? either way it's a yes. same part even. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MWLoyale Posted March 29, 2018 Author Share Posted March 29, 2018 Just replace the rear input shaft bearing in your existing transmission. It's a $65 part. GD Does this cause the transmission to slip out of gear? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted March 29, 2018 Share Posted March 29, 2018 It can. The issue doesn't really affect 99+ transmissions. WRX transmissions and possibly later NA models use a tapered roller instead of the ball. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MWLoyale Posted March 29, 2018 Author Share Posted March 29, 2018 (edited) Wouldn't that cause all gears to slip? Not just 3rd and 4th? The car has 297k miles on the original transmission, I'm thinking it's more of a synchronizer teeth wear issue. Edited March 29, 2018 by MWLoyale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted March 29, 2018 Share Posted March 29, 2018 The shift rod can't be pushed out of it's detent without shaft alignment problems typically. And that's almost always the rear input shaft bearing. Synro's being worn will only result in grinding. They don't retain the shift fork in position. That's the job of the detent balls and springs on the shift rod. 3 and 4 use the same rod/fork. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted March 29, 2018 Share Posted March 29, 2018 (edited) Wouldn't that cause all gears to slip? Not just 3rd and 4th? The car has 297k miles on the original transmission, I'm thinking it's more of a synchronizer teeth wear issue. Bad syncrho's keep you from getting into (or out of) gear Poping out of gear in subies is ussually the upper shaft, rear bearing. This is because the ONLY thing that holds the upper shaft from sliding fore/aft in the case is it's rear bearing, and relies on it's outer race being held firm in the case, and a circlip and plate that help hold it's position. When this bearing wears out, and gets slop in it, the shaft is allowed to walk forward and back as you go on/off throttle changes. The gearset moves in the fork. The problem isn't the shift fork detents. In contrary, the better the detent holds, the more likely it will pop out of gear. Ussually it's starts in 5th, since 5/R fork is the one immediately behind this bearing, But the 3/4 shift fork is on the upper shaft too. maybe the 5th detent is worn enough to allow the fork to move with the gearset when it walks around? 1/2 fork is on the lower. So, if it starts popping out of first or second you've got bigger problems. that would mean the large, rear pinion shaft bearing was shot and you're Ring+ Pinion in the front diff is toasted. ****NOTE ***** Damage to the upper shaft, rear bearing can result from improper clutch installation......i.e. forcing the issue when installing clutch while not aligned properly. Edited March 29, 2018 by Gloyale 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted March 29, 2018 Share Posted March 29, 2018 Exactly. I wasn't clear - the detents hold the fork in position, but the bearing holds the shaft and when that moves it pushes the rod off the detents by applying a counter force to the fork. The gear teeth are helical cut and apply axial loads to the shaft. GD 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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