Crap, leaking heater core

[iluvdrt]

OK guys, What are my options here. My heater core is leaking in my 82 Brat, I put stop leak in it for now, but I know that isn't permanent and I should remove it ASAP.

 

Its about to be summer in SoCal which means I don't need to replace it yet, but I would like to before next winter. I have heard an EA82 core fits, possibly find one on Ebay (How good are these? Are they new?), and then there is the struggle of removing it. I really don't want to remove the entire dash since it is in pristine condition. Some of those old plastic pieces like to crack and break. Does anyone have the write up for removing it by cutting the heater box?

 

Lastly, what about the Vintage Air small truck/car HVAC units? Those sell for about $400 with AC (I have an EJ). 

 

Thanks for any help.

 

 

[Gloyale]

you must remove dash.

 

It's not that hard.

 

Drop the 2 bolts that hold the column. Pull the speedo cable out of the back of the dash.   Disconnect the blend door cable, and the sets of large harness connectors at each end.  Leave the gauge cluster in the dash.  Remove the radio by removing the center console/ash tray assembly.

 

Worst part is the 3 bolts at the top of the dash.  Don't whack yer windshield with the wrench. (way easier during a windsheild replacement)  

 

Then the 2 bolts in the center under radio console and 2 at the outer lower corners.  

 

It's really not terrible.  And you don't need to remove the cluster from the larger dash assembly at all.

 

get a friend to help.

 

EA82 core won't fit directly.   But the EA81 unit is all brass possible to fix?

[iluvdrt]

I am not sure if it is brass or not. Ill bypass it for now, take some vacation and try to get it out. There is an old school radiator shop down the street from my house. Hopefully he can mend it. Its beginning to get really hard to keep this ol' girl on the roads these days. Of course it doesn't help I go camping with it I am sure.

[moosens]

There is archived a way to remove and replace the core thru the drivers side , I’m pretty sure , using a dremel tool.

 

Personally I don’t have a problem removing the dash but it is a bit more involved that just the core via this method mentioned.

 

The original poster was Chris Lantieri , who’s board name I can’t recall. This is for all EA81 cars and Gen 2 Brat.

[idosubaru]

In other subarus you can replace it without touching the dash, Id consider that first as well.

 

Look it up but the basic idea is cut the metal inlets and outlets of the heater core and then use generic runner hose to extend the heater cores reach through the firewall instead of a Long metal inlet/outlet that creates the clearance problem.

 

I’m not sure which models you can do this on but it’s been done in subarus before and what I’d try do too if I could avoid possibly cracking scraping and breaking old brittle trim and plastic fasteners.

[idosubaru]

Tribeca had early years issues making this more of a problem people wanted to address and a few have done it. I think I’ve seen it on an outback before as well. Here’s a quote from one guy who relaced his without removing the dash:

 

“Back inside, I used an air powered 4" cutoff disc to cut both pipes. Slide the heater core out. Cut and debur the new heater core to match the old one. Be careful to keep aluminum chips from getting into the core. Debur the new new pipes and replace the old ones still in the car. There is one screw that secures the clamp. Slide the new core in. Connect the pipes using new heater hose. I got the hose and clamps at NAPA.”

Edited April 1, 2018 by idosubaru

[moosens]

I’m highly recommending you research the archives and just be patient a bit at this moment.

You should only need to disconnect hoses , and unhook the throw link and swap the unit. Put the link back on and hoses and if desired you can put the cut out piece back in.

 

Take a look before you leap.

Cheers!

[Gloyale]

Ya'll are crazy.  Gonna go cutting and grinding up a mostly obsolete HVAC unit rather than undo some bolts and harness connectors?  Then also cut the NEW core and tubing through firewall?  God that would likely end up so screwed up and mangled, leaking cold air when it's running....gah the list of potentially messed up and NOT REPAIRABLE issues involved in approaching this way are mind boggling.  Espescially in a nice clean SoCal Brat.

 

  You really think sawzalling plastic and brass while on yer back upside down, trying not to hit wires, cables, etc...., is gonna be easier than removing a few bolts?

 

Just pull the dang dash.  It comes out as a whole unit, no need to mess with the brittle plastic bezel or cluster.  That's how they are made to be changed.   I've literally done dozens this way and the core can be done in less than 2 hours nothing broken or cut.

 

There are NO subarus that I am aware of (EA81,EA82, EJ cars) that can have the heater core removed without removing the dash.  

Edited April 1, 2018 by Gloyale

[moosens]

Agree.

But if he wants the shortcut , it’s been done and documented in the archives. And it’s not all that dramatic stuff you threw in there.

 

Sure it’s hack. But it’s what folks will do sometimes here and there.

Pretty sure this only works for the EA81’s 1980-84 USA and Gen 2 Brat and Hatchbacks until their end of run.

 

Chris that did the original post is no hack. He’s a really smart guy. Dremel tool , facing the box right side up , couple hoses and a link.

Edited April 2, 2018 by moosens

[pksjeep]

There is a documented way to replace the heater core on this sight. I followed it and used a soldering gun to cut the housing on my 86 brat. After I replaced the core I used a foil  type tape to seal it back up. This is used on heating and cooling ducts in houses. Check the valve outside the heater box on the drivers side, before you replace the core. It could be leaking there or at the hoses. If I remember correctly it said to cut as far down the radius as possible. The heater core is full width as the box..

 

Search "Ea-81 Heater Core Swap" this is what I think I used..

I got the heater core from O'Reilly auto parts. the valve came from the dealer.

 

I don't remember it being too bad of a job doing it this way.

Paul

[NV Zeno]

​I did the "shortcut swap" on my '83 wagon years ago.  I replaced both the heater core and the valve, then sealed the cut areas back up with the HVAC tape as described just above.  There were no leaks, and AFAIK that car is still going and swapped core still operating to this day.  That job was done sometime in the early 90's with about 175,000 miles.  Wagon is now at around 400,000 miles.

 

​I can't recall where I got the parts (it was a long, long time ago) but I do remember I got the core and the valve at two different places.  Try Rock Auto..they're sure to have at least one of the parts you need here.

 

Just my 2 bucks

[idosubaru]

the core can be done in less than 2 hours nothing broken or cut.  

 

That changes everything, the dude should drive it to you and pay you to do it.

 

agreed, do it right if possible and there's no trim to damage.  if someone is intimidated and they ignore it, leak gets worse, fill with water, engine overheats, car sits for years and gets moldy and rusty and lost to history.....that's no fun either. 

[iluvdrt]

I would love to do it the right way, I just wasn't sure how easily it all came out. Ill bypass it for now and try and get it out later when I take vacation. JIC as it is my daily driver since my son turned 16 and my wife started going to school.