jono Posted April 7, 2018 Share Posted April 7, 2018 Ok. Who out there has mastered this thing? I think it has been the cause of my reassemble hassles If I could remove and disable it I think I can get my selectors to stay in place without undoing the pointed grub screw A friendly guide with more descriptive processes than factory manuals would be greatly appreciated And to simplify it this is just a single range full time 4WD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted April 7, 2018 Share Posted April 7, 2018 You can't remove it without sliding the interlock down the shift selector shaft. Why not just remove the screw? it's easy on a single range. 10mm on a 1/4 drive wratchet with 6 inch extension. once it's out you can rotate the selector shaft hard counter clockwise (as viewed from in the car) and this will slip the finger out of the 3 selector rods. Once you feel it's disengaged, use tape or rubberband/bungee to hold it in the rotated, out of engagement state. Now the entire rear section comes off as one unit. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted April 8, 2018 Author Share Posted April 8, 2018 Sorry apologies I did not say I already have this box apart as far as case halves still together Got rear sections off ready for new gaskets....then found a 6.35 mm ball bearing fall out if wrag May be from previous box dismantle for its front stubs Looking at diagrams now Nothing in anti reverse thing at moment. Undone two M 6 bolts and it rotates freely. Not appear tobe any shims on this one Think only ever got one of these things out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted April 8, 2018 Author Share Posted April 8, 2018 Its also taken me three decades plus to use a bench at home. Think I am getting too fat to squat on floor anymore ...squashing organs Adding castor wheels to a three foot cupboard bench best thing could ever do. Can pull it out and into better light or position 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted April 8, 2018 Share Posted April 8, 2018 Sorry apologies I did not say I already have this box apart as far as case halves still together Got rear sections off ready for new gaskets....then found a 6.35 mm ball bearing fall out if wrag May be from previous box dismantle for its front stubs Looking at diagrams now Nothing in anti reverse thing at moment. Undone two M 6 bolts and it rotates freely. Not appear tobe any shims on this one Think only ever got one of these things out 6.35 mm ball? That sounds like the one that should be the "detent" ball for the reverse lockout. It should like under the 14mm headed bolt barely visible in the top of your photo of the lockout. check there. If not, it's gotta be the detent ball for the 4wd select....at the top, right, rear of the case. Those are the only 2 balls that are that large. All the other balls and interlock "pellets" are smaller like 3~4.5 mm in diameter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted April 13, 2018 Share Posted April 13, 2018 Don't mess with those interlock pellet things. They almost did my head in getting them back in - there's a certain sequence to put them in correctly iirc. Love working on gearboxes - I might have my hands dirty in another one later this year... Cheers Bennie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted April 13, 2018 Author Share Posted April 13, 2018 My balls are a little bigger behind the selector rod detent plugs ...7.1235 mm I believe there is another detent ball plug on the underside of the transfer case right hand side I think it is Studied the two or three ? different sections on the reverse lock out device - still suggests that once everything else is out - detent ball, spring and plug, the selector rod inside, it should come out. I can roatate it, so at least I can polish it up with the dremel. The insides of this box gonna be cleaner than the outside at least. On reassembly I am using Nulon G70 as a replacement for their L90 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted April 15, 2018 Author Share Posted April 15, 2018 box is mostly back together, three major bits anyway. Of course put rear extension on before doing up that 10mm headed bol with pointy bit. This time I was able to get my Japanese spec 1/4" socket in there. used my skinny magnet to fit bolt in place, then also to turn it to friction stopping it. Skinny magnet is new tool I have adapted So much easier when everything is clean and gearbox on a stand. At least am able to select neutral and gears by using a pin punch in the hole of the selector rod end.It is just hard to fathom how little a movement it is at the rod compared to the top of the hearstick. Still head cant believe I will get all gears so will assemble shifters to satisfy head I think t also helps being in third gear to get at that litle pointy bolt. Also helps having a facory manual over written tips n tricks dictated over the phone ...eh Greg Almost ready to do my next shaft stub swap to 23 splines Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted April 15, 2018 Share Posted April 15, 2018 If you do this again I highly recommend dropping a front LSD in there while the box is split Cheers Bennie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted April 16, 2018 Author Share Posted April 16, 2018 a front LSD? 3.7:1 ? It would be nice, but I bet rarer than a rear LSD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted April 16, 2018 Share Posted April 16, 2018 I dropped an OBX in the front of mine. Been going very well for about 5 years or so now. Only downer is the stub axle. I don't know how to change this or if it's possible. Shoving a 25 spline cv cup on the MY shaft has been known to work. Cheers Bennie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted April 16, 2018 Author Share Posted April 16, 2018 an OBX ? What is it Pauline Hanson is quoted as saying ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted April 17, 2018 Share Posted April 17, 2018 Have a look on ebay. I'm sure they're still available. As for PH... Who cares? Cheers Bennie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted April 17, 2018 Author Share Posted April 17, 2018 it was her "pleeease explain" that i was hinting at thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted April 17, 2018 Author Share Posted April 17, 2018 You can't remove it without sliding the interlock down the shift selector shaft. Why not just remove the screw? it's easy on a single range. 10mm on a 1/4 drive wratchet with 6 inch extension. once it's out you can rotate the selector shaft hard counter clockwise (as viewed from in the car) and this will slip the finger out of the 3 selector rods. Once you feel it's disengaged, use tape or rubberband/bungee to hold it in the rotated, out of engagement state. Now the entire rear section comes off as one unit. Tell you what, the first times I tried this a while back I'd swear the 1/4" sockets and extension were not gonna work in here, BUT got lucky the other day and with a fair bit of tinkering with shifter rod position and the gear just in the way - managed. Today on another box, took a few goes to get it right again. Very hit and miss as to whether socket wants to go. I now use a slender magnet to drive the tapered bolt in and out before trying a socket. A cut down and ground down 10mm socket may be best for this job i Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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