Project Frank'n Soob.

[ClassySoob]

Last week my 85 gl threw a rod. So now it's time for a new engine. I thought I might as well go ahead and do the EJ22 swap. I already have the engine out of a 97 Legacy. Anyone who has done this can you share some insight. I remember reading a post about the walk through of the swap awhile back, but I can't seem to find it now. I know I need the flywheel redrilled and a bell house adapter. What else am I going to need? Any mod to the stock engine mounts or will it line up. All the help you guys can share would be awesome.

Edited April 10, 2018 by ClassySoob

[el_freddo]

Engine mounts:  Hammer the little bump flat at the outer edge of the engine crossmember's mount point and file the engine mount holes outwards.  I can't remember how far as I did this about 8 years ago.  A set of wedges are good for keeping the engine mounts sitting flat.

 

Wiring is a big one for many.  Get this right and you're sorted.   If you can bench test the engine and your wiring and all goes well you know you've completed one of the hard parts!

 

If you've got power steering the EJ stuff will bolt right up at the hoses on the engine crossmember.

 

I used the EJ throttle cable and had to modify the hole in the firewall to accept the EJ cable.

 

Otherwise once the wiring is in it's "just" hooking up the required wires for ignition, vehicle speed sensor (if you want), permanent power, backup permanent power (from memory. Some ppl tie these two in together IIRC).  I also used the EJ starter wire for the starter trigger - the EJ ECU references this wire to richen the mixture or something to help with cold starting.

 

Keep your EA engine loom and use the coolant temp wire and oil pressure switch wire on the EJ - saves messing with a few more wires.

 

Radiator mods or a replacement radiator will be required.  I've heard of ppl using the BRZ radiator - but you'll need a filler neck either added to the radiator or have a remote one fitted into the top rad hose.  I've used an N13 pulsar radiator, slid to one side to clear the cam cover with the lower outlet.  Works alright if I'm not doing steep slow climbs or driving in +35*C heat

 

Also, while you've got the EJ on the floor, a good idea is to mark an spot to place the EA temp sender on the coolant crossover pipe.  Remove the intake manifold and the coolant crossover pipe, have someone weld in a small plate where you've marked for the EA temp sensor.  Drill and tap the hole to the appropriate size/thread.  This will have your factor temp gauge behave the same as always.  This is one thing I wish I did with my conversion.  The EJ sensor reads low on the EA instrument cluster.

 

Cheers

Bennie

[ClassySoob]

Engine mounts: Hammer the little bump flat at the outer edge of the engine crossmember's mount point and file the engine mount holes outwards. I can't remember how far as I did this about 8 years ago. A set of wedges are good for keeping the engine mounts sitting flat.

 

Wiring is a big one for many. Get this right and you're sorted. If you can bench test the engine and your wiring and all goes well you know you've completed one of the hard parts!

 

If you've got power steering the EJ stuff will bolt right up at the hoses on the engine crossmember.

 

I used the EJ throttle cable and had to modify the hole in the firewall to accept the EJ cable.

 

Otherwise once the wiring is in it's "just" hooking up the required wires for ignition, vehicle speed sensor (if you want), permanent power, backup permanent power (from memory. Some ppl tie these two in together IIRC). I also used the EJ starter wire for the starter trigger - the EJ ECU references this wire to richen the mixture or something to help with cold starting.

 

Keep your EA engine loom and use the coolant temp wire and oil pressure switch wire on the EJ - saves messing with a few more wires.

 

Radiator mods or a replacement radiator will be required. I've heard of ppl using the BRZ radiator - but you'll need a filler neck either added to the radiator or have a remote one fitted into the top rad hose. I've used an N13 pulsar radiator, slid to one side to clear the cam cover with the lower outlet. Works alright if I'm not doing steep slow climbs or driving in +35*C heat

 

Also, while you've got the EJ on the floor, a good idea is to mark an spot to place the EA temp sender on the coolant crossover pipe. Remove the intake manifold and the coolant crossover pipe, have someone weld in a small plate where you've marked for the EA temp sensor. Drill and tap the hole to the appropriate size/thread. This will have your factor temp gauge behave the same as always. This is one thing I wish I did with my conversion. The EJ sensor reads low on the EA instrument cluster.

 

Cheers

 

Bennie

I picked up just the EJ engine but don't have the car. It didnt come with any wires or cables. Do I have to use an EJ throttle cable or can I use the original from the EA. And what kind of radiator mods needs to be done? How much did it cost you to do it all?

[el_freddo]

Cost, good question! It's been 10 years this year since the conversion was done!

 

I shopped around for parts when they were cheap. Best way to do it is get a donor car - then you have just about everything other than the external high pressure fuel pump.

 

You will need the engine harness, ECU and loom, intake pipe work, airflow metre, air of, O2 sensor (in the Y pipe).

 

I had a copper radiator back then and had to have the ports changed. Top one was 45 deg angle to poke towards the engine, lower one to do the same horizontally rather than vertically. An increase in size to 40mm dia will have you using the EJ hoses.

 

The other way to do it if you're this way inclinded: mount a dizzy off the rhs cam at the back of the engine, mod the intake to accept some carby of choice. Or find a factory EJ carb setup - more common over there than they are over here.

 

Cheers

 

Bennie